Tighten up stock shifter
08-20-2018, 09:39 AM
#1
5th Gear
Thread Starter
Tighten up stock shifter
I have an 80 corvette and my stock manual shifter feels loose or sloppy for lack of a better word. I have considered going aftermarket but I do like the original one. How would I go about making the original feel solid, or is this possible? I have looked at Hurst but it doesn't look like they make one for the 80 - 81 anymore. Any help on how to tighten up the original or ideas on what others have used aftermarket is appreciated. Thanks.
Last edited by Jerrys80; 08-20-2018 at 09:42 AM.
08-20-2018, 10:19 AM
#2
Safety Car
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Jerrys80 (08-21-2018)
08-21-2018, 05:26 AM
#3
Dementer sole survivor
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check for wear in the linkage like the holes to being opened up or the rods being cut into. The rebuild kit will tighten it up if the rods are still in spec. Put the the rods in the upper hole at the tranny and the throws will be shorter too
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Jerrys80 (08-21-2018)
08-21-2018, 07:52 AM
#5
Melting Slicks
I have an 80 corvette and my stock manual shifter feels loose or sloppy for lack of a better word. I have considered going aftermarket but I do like the original one. How would I go about making the original feel solid, or is this possible? I have looked at Hurst but it doesn't look like they make one for the 80 - 81 anymore. Any help on how to tighten up the original or ideas on what others have used aftermarket is appreciated. Thanks.
The rebuild kit helps but resquaring the shifter "box" really makes for a nice original feel.
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Jerrys80 (08-21-2018)
08-21-2018, 09:28 AM
#6
5th Gear
Thread Starter
If it's worn alot try taking a look at this previous rebuild thread. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-question.html
The rebuild kit helps but resquaring the shifter "box" really makes for a nice original feel.
The rebuild kit helps but resquaring the shifter "box" really makes for a nice original feel.
08-21-2018, 10:47 AM
#7
Race Director
First you have to identify WHERE the problem is at.
I can say that on about 99.9% of the shifters I tighten up I do not need to buy any parts.
On rare occasions the shifter linkage may be worn so the hole in the shift levers are fine but the rod itself has excessive front adn back play in it.
Make sure you use or replace any worn 'G: clips that holds the rods to the shifter levers. If my memory serves me correctly there is only ONE plate where cotter pin is used adn that is to secure the clevis pin. So using cotter pin to hold on all of your rods is not correct and you can get side movement in them and throw everything off when you go to set your NEUTRAL GATE.
Now....I know many have used flat washers and forced a cotter pin and used it that way and kept the rod from rotating...so do as you wish. They still make and sell the correct 'G' clips so that is what I use.
SO...IF your levers that are in your shifter with the rods connected to them have a lot of side to side play and can wiggle. Then I would take out the shifter and put it in a vise and slowly being to crush it inwards to get it so these levers can slide but have very little to no side to side play. Now when I do this it may be a 'hit or miss' if I can get the box closed up enough to my liking or if I need to take it apart...which for me is no big deal and not hard to do. Then when I feel I have got is closed up enough I re-assemble it an check it and if I went o far I can easily spread it back apart.
At this same when I have one of the levers in the shifter I check the DEPTH of how far the end of your chrome shifter handle actually fit in the notch it needs to fit into. I have often times needed to weld and EXTEND the end of this handle so when I use my line up tool for the neutral gate setting. I KNWO there is PLENTY of steel contacting the notch of the lever.
I have seen brand new shifters that were ground down too far an I had to add metal. Also when I am adding the metal at the end of the shifter handle...I grind and shape it to fit nicely in the notch on the lever so I do not have excessive movement in the shifter handle to the notch in the lever because I made it to narrow from front to back... so I am going my customer a really nice shifter.
Because if you stop and think about it ....years and yeas of the shifter being slammed to one side and then the other has caused for the box to widen.
DUB
I can say that on about 99.9% of the shifters I tighten up I do not need to buy any parts.
On rare occasions the shifter linkage may be worn so the hole in the shift levers are fine but the rod itself has excessive front adn back play in it.
Make sure you use or replace any worn 'G: clips that holds the rods to the shifter levers. If my memory serves me correctly there is only ONE plate where cotter pin is used adn that is to secure the clevis pin. So using cotter pin to hold on all of your rods is not correct and you can get side movement in them and throw everything off when you go to set your NEUTRAL GATE.
Now....I know many have used flat washers and forced a cotter pin and used it that way and kept the rod from rotating...so do as you wish. They still make and sell the correct 'G' clips so that is what I use.
SO...IF your levers that are in your shifter with the rods connected to them have a lot of side to side play and can wiggle. Then I would take out the shifter and put it in a vise and slowly being to crush it inwards to get it so these levers can slide but have very little to no side to side play. Now when I do this it may be a 'hit or miss' if I can get the box closed up enough to my liking or if I need to take it apart...which for me is no big deal and not hard to do. Then when I feel I have got is closed up enough I re-assemble it an check it and if I went o far I can easily spread it back apart.
At this same when I have one of the levers in the shifter I check the DEPTH of how far the end of your chrome shifter handle actually fit in the notch it needs to fit into. I have often times needed to weld and EXTEND the end of this handle so when I use my line up tool for the neutral gate setting. I KNWO there is PLENTY of steel contacting the notch of the lever.
I have seen brand new shifters that were ground down too far an I had to add metal. Also when I am adding the metal at the end of the shifter handle...I grind and shape it to fit nicely in the notch on the lever so I do not have excessive movement in the shifter handle to the notch in the lever because I made it to narrow from front to back... so I am going my customer a really nice shifter.
Because if you stop and think about it ....years and yeas of the shifter being slammed to one side and then the other has caused for the box to widen.
DUB
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Jerrys80 (08-21-2018)
08-21-2018, 10:54 AM
#8
5th Gear
Thread Starter
First you have to identify WHERE the problem is at.
I can say that on about 99.9% of the shifters I tighten up I do not need to buy any parts.
On rare occasions the shifter linkage may be worn so the hole in the shift levers are fine but the rod itself has excessive front adn back play in it.
Make sure you use or replace any worn 'G: clips that holds the rods to the shifter levers. If my memory serves me correctly there is only ONE plate where cotter pin is used adn that is to secure the clevis pin. So using cotter pin to hold on all of your rods is not correct and you can get side movement in them and throw everything off when you go to set your NEUTRAL GATE.
Now....I know many have used flat washers and forced a cotter pin and used it that way and kept the rod from rotating...so do as you wish. They still make and sell the correct 'G' clips so that is what I use.
SO...IF your levers that are in your shifter with the rods connected to them have a lot of side to side play and can wiggle. Then I would take out the shifter and put it in a vise and slowly being to crush it inwards to get it so these levers can slide but have very little to no side to side play. Now when I do this it may be a 'hit or miss' if I can get the box closed up enough to my liking or if I need to take it apart...which for me is no big deal and not hard to do. Then when I feel I have got is closed up enough I re-assemble it an check it and if I went o far I can easily spread it back apart.
At this same when I have one of the levers in the shifter I check the DEPTH of how far the end of your chrome shifter handle actually fit in the notch it needs to fit into. I have often times needed to weld and EXTEND the end of this handle so when I use my line up tool for the neutral gate setting. I KNWO there is PLENTY of steel contacting the notch of the lever.
I have seen brand new shifters that were ground down too far an I had to add metal. Also when I am adding the metal at the end of the shifter handle...I grind and shape it to fit nicely in the notch on the lever so I do not have excessive movement in the shifter handle to the notch in the lever because I made it to narrow from front to back... so I am going my customer a really nice shifter.
Because if you stop and think about it ....years and yeas of the shifter being slammed to one side and then the other has caused for the box to widen.
DUB
I can say that on about 99.9% of the shifters I tighten up I do not need to buy any parts.
On rare occasions the shifter linkage may be worn so the hole in the shift levers are fine but the rod itself has excessive front adn back play in it.
Make sure you use or replace any worn 'G: clips that holds the rods to the shifter levers. If my memory serves me correctly there is only ONE plate where cotter pin is used adn that is to secure the clevis pin. So using cotter pin to hold on all of your rods is not correct and you can get side movement in them and throw everything off when you go to set your NEUTRAL GATE.
Now....I know many have used flat washers and forced a cotter pin and used it that way and kept the rod from rotating...so do as you wish. They still make and sell the correct 'G' clips so that is what I use.
SO...IF your levers that are in your shifter with the rods connected to them have a lot of side to side play and can wiggle. Then I would take out the shifter and put it in a vise and slowly being to crush it inwards to get it so these levers can slide but have very little to no side to side play. Now when I do this it may be a 'hit or miss' if I can get the box closed up enough to my liking or if I need to take it apart...which for me is no big deal and not hard to do. Then when I feel I have got is closed up enough I re-assemble it an check it and if I went o far I can easily spread it back apart.
At this same when I have one of the levers in the shifter I check the DEPTH of how far the end of your chrome shifter handle actually fit in the notch it needs to fit into. I have often times needed to weld and EXTEND the end of this handle so when I use my line up tool for the neutral gate setting. I KNWO there is PLENTY of steel contacting the notch of the lever.
I have seen brand new shifters that were ground down too far an I had to add metal. Also when I am adding the metal at the end of the shifter handle...I grind and shape it to fit nicely in the notch on the lever so I do not have excessive movement in the shifter handle to the notch in the lever because I made it to narrow from front to back... so I am going my customer a really nice shifter.
Because if you stop and think about it ....years and yeas of the shifter being slammed to one side and then the other has caused for the box to widen.
DUB
08-21-2018, 12:07 PM
#9
Dementer sole survivor
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Heres a write up from last winter when I rebuilt mine.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/4107838-rebuilding-a-muncie-4spd-shifter.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/4107838-rebuilding-a-muncie-4spd-shifter.html
08-21-2018, 12:52 PM
#10
Le Mans Master
Heres a write up from last winter when I rebuilt mine.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...d-shifter.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...d-shifter.html
I can't believe I missed it, I guess I need to spend more time here on the C3 Forum...
GUSTO
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Rescue Rogers (08-21-2018)
08-21-2018, 01:12 PM
#11
5th Gear
Thread Starter
Heres a write up from last winter when I rebuilt mine.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...d-shifter.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...d-shifter.html
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Rescue Rogers (08-21-2018)
08-22-2018, 07:02 PM
#12
Racer
When I got my Vette last year, that is the first thing I rebuilt - the shifter - it was way too loose. It did improve but not to the point where I liked it. It wasn't long after that when I put in a 5-speed Tremec tranny. That solved *all* kinds of problems, including the loose shifter. 
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Jerrys80 (09-04-2018)
08-23-2018, 08:44 PM
#13
Dementer sole survivor
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I'm jealous
10-05-2023, 02:08 PM
#14
Racer
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St. Jude Donor '12
This weekends projct
Guys
Great post on the shifter rebuild. I did buy the shifter rebuild kit from ZIP and I will definitely square up the collar. I'm guessing this job had never been done on my '68 BB and it started giving me fits about 6+ weeks ago trying to get out to local shows
Doesn't look to bad other that trying to work in and out the 2 bolts on the shifter support bracket...It's a PITA as I rebuilt the trans and put it in last year (I know should have done the rebuild at that point) but was trying to get the other job done.
Thx for the posts
Great post on the shifter rebuild. I did buy the shifter rebuild kit from ZIP and I will definitely square up the collar. I'm guessing this job had never been done on my '68 BB and it started giving me fits about 6+ weeks ago trying to get out to local shows
Doesn't look to bad other that trying to work in and out the 2 bolts on the shifter support bracket...It's a PITA as I rebuilt the trans and put it in last year (I know should have done the rebuild at that point) but was trying to get the other job done.
Thx for the posts