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I posted earlier that I was going to replace my side yokes, but before I commit, I want to see what you guys think of the ones I pulled out of my '73. There is a little pitting on the bearing surface, it can barely be felt when you run your finger over it. Should they stay or should they go?!?!?
How was the end play of the yokes? If you can clean up the bearing surface use them, other wise replace since they'll wear quickly after you break through the outer surface.
How was the end play of the yokes? If you can clean up the bearing surface use them, other wise replace since they'll wear quickly after you break through the outer surface.
I thought '72 was the last year of the case-hardened yokes
Like I ask my customer when I get into stuff like his. If they only put 500 to 1000 miles a year on it and do not drive it like they stole it. they could go back in.. BUT .I also am concerned about the amount of end play.
I don't like the pitting on the yoke myself but can it possibly be okay to use. You say you cannot feel it..so I am going off of that. . Yes it could be used..but then if the yoke looked like that ..I would have to carefully look at the needle bearings for the yokes and see if I see them being messed up also.
I can say that for some odd reason some of these reproduction side yokes you can get may actually have more end play than the ones you took out that were not that bad.
I WISH that a company that made these would have them in different lengths so when I knew the clutches were still good I could measure out the length I would need and order them. But that seems NOT to be the case. So frustrating sometimes to get companies to make stuff remotely correct.
Like I ask my customer when I get into stuff like his. If they only put 500 to 1000 miles a year on it and do not drive it like they stole it. they could go back in.. BUT .I also am concerned about the amount of end play.
I don't like the pitting on the yoke myself but can it possibly be okay to use. You say you cannot feel it..so I am going off of that. . Yes it could be used..but then if the yoke looked like that ..I would have to carefully look at the needle bearings for the yokes and see if I see them being messed up also.
I can say that for some odd reason some of these reproduction side yokes you can get may actually have more end play than the ones you took out that were not that bad.
I WISH that a company that made these would have them in different lengths so when I knew the clutches were still good I could measure out the length I would need and order them. But that seems NOT to be the case. So frustrating sometimes to get companies to make stuff remotely correct.
DUB
DUB - Everything else has has been replaced, including the the gears, in this differential, so the needle bearings in the sides will be new. If you are asking how the original ones looked when they came out, they looked pretty good to me.
I can't tell from the pictures if there is pitting or marks on the axles. If I had them I would see if they polish up in my lathe, if not I would not use them. For axle faces, they still have the chamfer on the end which is a good sign, these are original since they have the center hole in them. The hardness of the face has to be checked and the distance from the face to the snap ring measured. As mentioned 187 would be good but this dimension is all over the place and not even close to original. If the dimension is good but the faces soft they can be hardened.
Axle endplay is determined by 3 areas- face wear, clutch setup, and case holes. If these 3 are not checked and addressed the axle endplay will be loose. What is loose? I consider anything over 010" bad in a rebuilt differential. While an otherwise stock used, not rebuilt, diff can have more and work it's best to have 005-008"
Any vendor here will sell you rebuilt axles, and they're usually good but my advice is to check them when you get them. I have never seen soft rebuilt axles but have seen plenty new axles with soft faces. The axle should slide into the side gear without any effort or binding, the snap ring should "snap" in the grove and slide with little pressure, the shields should not fall off, tapped holes should have good threads, face dimension under 180 will not dial in too good unless you know how to correctly tune a posi and even then will have close or over 010". I think I mentioned in your other thread the original 63-around 72 were the best, I have reused many original axles with 100k miles on them that had less than 005 wear- 45-50 years later. Installing new gears will have -0- affect on axle endplay.
Those both look like they have a nice chamfer on the end of the splines,which means minimal wear, and with your discription of the bearing end, I wouldn't have any issues reusing these at all, unless your running 500HP and sticky tires.
How do these side yokes look?
