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I just removed the old fuel tank and replaced with a fuel cell, made a custom frame to hold it, straps to stop it moving upwards and run teflon braided hoses upto engine, 2 x walbro in tank
I've definitely never seen anyone do anything like THAT before. Seems like it would dramatically lower the center of gravity; I always hated how high up that heavy fuel tank was... Are those cloth straps actually preventing the tank from falling out of the bottom of the car? (Assuming not.)
[Edit] I just realized you said those straps are the replacement for the metal straps that hold the tank down... Certain make tank removal easier, huh? Super creative!
I really wish someone would make a bracket and neck extension kit for lowering the stock fuel tank, assuming you removed all the spare tire stuff.
You have side-exhaust, right? (I don't think I'd want a hot exhaust running that close to the fuel tank otherwise...)
Adam
Last edited by NewbVetteGuy; Oct 29, 2018 at 03:55 PM.
first look at your power level and the hp rating for the system, buy the system rated for higher hp, if you decide to upgrade later you may have to buy a different system. second look at features they have for example if you have an auto trans would you ever upgrade to a 4l80e? If so you might want to think about a system that can control the trans later and not need to be replaced or have second system added, same for boost.
I've definitely never seen anyone do anything like THAT before. Seems like it would dramatically lower the center of gravity; I always hated how high up that heavy fuel tank was... Are those cloth straps actually preventing the tank from falling out of the bottom of the car? (Assuming not.)
[Edit] I just realized you said those straps are the replacement for the metal straps that hold the tank down... Certain make tank removal easier, huh? Super creative!
I really wish someone would make a bracket and neck extension kit for lowering the stock fuel tank, assuming you removed all the spare tire stuff.
You have side-exhaust, right? (I don't think I'd want a hot exhaust running that close to the fuel tank otherwise...)
Adam
if you look closely in pic , you can see alloy frame holding the tank, straps are to stop tank jumping upwards, but cant go very far, the frame is bolted onto the rear chassis legs by 4 big bolts, so very strong, yes very easy to remove tank, yes no space wheel for me, yes side pipes - but you could run exhaust under neath it, its a fuel cell, so the alloy box you see, its just a alloy box, the fuel tank is a plastic tank, inside that alloy box, with lid, then theres a swirl pot/bladder inside the plastic fuel cell and then fuel pumps and pick ups inside swirl pot/bladder, its for motorracing, so is very safe, main reasons for change, holley efi, safer and like you say improved centre of gravity - tank holds 80 litres of fuel - 17.5 gallons, so alittle less than factory tank
pic oif fuel cap
pic of plastic fuel cell
Last edited by corvettedave383; Oct 29, 2018 at 05:00 PM.
You didn't say what kind of budget you're working with. For the fuel tank there's Rock Valley. All stainless steel, in-tank pump, and baffled. Very pretty, but it's over $1K.
Did you use the factory straps to install, or need to fab something to install ?
Did you use the factory straps to install, or need to fab something to install ?
It came with stainless straps and mounts same as stock. It also came with the fuel level sensor (compatible with stock gauge) and a Walbro 255 lph pump. It has a lot of internal baffling, also all stainless. I did feel I got my moneys worth with them.
Here is the fuel system to my RamJet 350 being controlled by EZ-EFI 2.0.
I didn't even drop the tank. I did it from the top. But probably easier to do by dropping the tank. HOWEVER, I can remove and replace the fuel pump without dropping the tank and do it from the filler hole.
If I was to do it nowadays I would just modify an 82 Sending unit by adapting a Canister-type pump to it. Lots of choices in canister pumps nowadays.
It will suck the tank dry before stumbling or losing fuel. I actually ran it dry for testing.
I used SS braided hose but I'm about to try and put in Nickel-Copper. (SS braided has worked well, but I can "smell" the gasoline through it). It's been fine for ~15 years but it smelled from day 1.
Here is the Ricks setup on my 69. I ended up putting the filter down to the right side frame rail beside the tank. Lines are all Kevlar braided Teflon and run parallel in stock location. -10 from tank to filter and -8 to regulator. Return is -8. Tank is heavily baffled and is dimensionally same as stock 69. Aeromotive A1000 pump in tank. Rollover vent valve not mounted yet. Since this pic was taken, I have also made a new filler neck to make my Lemans gas cap functional.
Last edited by 69ttop502; Mar 12, 2019 at 08:15 AM.
My set up is not pretty but seems to work. Created a canister type pump enclosure from a small paint can. The 77 sender unit has a large oval shape. I removed the in tank bladder but had to use the top
portion as a gasket for the sender unit. I think your 78’ might have the same strange tank set up. I connected to the stock steel lines without issue. I guess the return line is 5/16 and feed is 3/8. I replaced the rubber portions. Holley sniper made my car everyday driveable.