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Pulled my 1977 corvette out of storage and find my brakes were soft and car pulled hard to he left when applied.
Didn't noticed any leaks. I have replaced both front calipers, pads, hoses and master cylinder.
Brakes are a lot better but not 100% corvette still pulls hard left when brakes are applied,
also in reverse corvette pulls hard right in the opposite direction...
Thoughts?
Pulled my 1977 corvette out of storage and find my brakes were soft and car pulled hard to he left when applied.
Didn't noticed any leaks. I have replaced both front calipers, pads, hoses and master cylinder.
Brakes are a lot better but not 100% corvette still pulls hard left when brakes are applied,
also in reverse corvette pulls hard right in the opposite direction...
Thoughts?
When mine did that, there was a leak and so the brake pad got, air got in the system and it pulled (mine to the right).
Either a leak or your still have air in the system or you possibly damaged the hose from the frame to the caliper due to if when you bought that hose. You did not set it in the sun and slowly straighten it out. That is IF when you took it out of the box it was bent 180 degrees.
How well did you bench bleed the master cylinder??? And I am guessing you are using the manual method to bleed the brakes and not use a pressure bleeder to do it.
The hoses were shipped straight in a box. I did bench bleed the master cylinder and also at the calipers.
I would think if there was a leak I would see fluid leaking.
I have bled the front brakes on to different occasions,
maybe there still air in the system.
Your right front caliper isn't doing anything. And that's regardless if its in forward or reverse gear. You need to find out why its on strike.
Pistons jammed, hose plugged, steel line across the front frame plugged, who knows? I think your first step is to see if the right front bleeder has an excellent flow into a plastic bottle. If it does, pull the caliper for inspection. If not, remove the hose for inspection / pressure test.
he replaced the front lines, (short path to mc), and did not bleed the rears.. (farthest to mc) this allows air to remain in the system, our beloved c3's are well known for this problem, if all the replacement parts are installed and sealed properly the only soloution is to start at farthest wheel and bleed all 4, been there done that.
The second a master cylinder is installed the full system needs to be bled out.
There is a 'MacGyver ' trick that can be used to not need to bleed the complete brake system if ONLY the master cylinder was bench bled thoroughly and it was installed. This is not the case here so it will not work.