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454 LS6 Build

 
Old 04-24-2019, 07:16 PM
  #21  
rpoL98
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probably not the dual disk MA6 clutch, unobtanium...
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Old 04-24-2019, 08:46 PM
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leigh1322
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Time for a fun shot. This is the drivers view at 178 mph in a 7.6 sec dragster. And it's only a small block! But 700+HP. The convertor launches at 6600 rpm. Light it up and open that door!

The big fat red button on top of the steering wheel is called the "oh ****" button, Any idea what it is for?
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Old 04-25-2019, 07:05 AM
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Rods don't look familiar - what's the brand?
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Old 04-25-2019, 09:36 AM
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Good question. The rods are one of the off shore brands. I went with the I-beam rods as he has used them with good success in race motors up to 8000 rpm and 700 HP for 100s of passes down the 1/4 mile. Strong enough for mine. He goes with the H-beam rods for 800hp and up. These are less expensive, lighter and stronger than resizing, truing, and refurbishing stock rods. Plus I got mine .25 in longer than stock. He said they are a no-name brand that he gets direct from the source so nothing that I can recommend here.

Back to the engine assembly. The rest of the shortblock assembled quickly from this point and without drama. I got to get really messy helping with the Lucas oil used for bearing lube. I may not start this for a while, and he said this stuff won't run off the bearings, while the engine is in storage, unlike engine oil. I wiped down the cylinders with my bare hand and two good squirts of ATF for some ring lubrication.

Oh I almost forgot, he had previously measured every ring in it's correct cylinder, and filed them to fit, before I installed them.I forgot the end gap, but he sets street motors a little wider to protect the ring from end-butting if the motor gets a little too hot. Sounds like protection from a typical vette issue. They will almost touch when running and warmed up.

I was pleased to see how level the piston top is to the deck, we wound up with almost zero quench, maybe .005. That should be good for swirl, compression and power. I was surprised to see how much the pistons rock in the bore, even with .005 wall clearance. Look at piston close-up in the shot below, it's all the way up. With almost zero deck, one edge of the piston would literally be slightly above the deck while the other was down in the hole a bit. You could bump the piston with your hand and it would change. Part of that is because these are the harder 2618 alloy forged pistons, with low 1% silicon, that expand more than the others, and rattle a little bit when cold. They will tighten up and be be quiet when warm though. I actually loved the rattle of the pistons and the lifters on my LT-1 and this should be the same. All the mechanical noises let you know the engine was something special. Not quite like a ferrari sound track, but the Chevy version. I also like the purr of my LLT V-6, but that sure would not sound correct here.

After torquing all the main caps down, the short block is done! I tried to help with the torquing but my wrist wouldn't allow it, as I am only two weeks out from wrist surgery. At least I got both hands back!


Now this gets bagged for a while while the head work begins. That may happen next week. Stay tuned for updates. In the meantime I need to see if my hand will allow me to remove some of the tin off the old motor that we will need soon.




Oh I answered my own question from earlier, that is a 76 lb crank that spins around, and 24 pounds of reciprocating pistons & rods that move up and down at 100 times per second. Scary to think about. I think they should be renamed beefy- or strong-blocks.

Last edited by leigh1322; 04-27-2019 at 11:40 PM.
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Old 04-27-2019, 04:52 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by L88Plus View Post
Rods don't look familiar - what's the brand?
Look much like Eagle SIR thru-bolt ... if not, maybe same factory
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Old 04-27-2019, 06:51 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by leigh1322 View Post
Ok the 100 lb forged steel crank is in place in it's new home. If you look closely on the leftmost counterweight, you can see the two new fresh drill holes left over from the balancing. The new rods & pistons are 130 grams each lighter than stock, and you can see how much material had to be removed. These holes are also present on the other end counterweight. 130 g x 8 yields about a 2 lb weight loss! All that lighter reciprocating weight yields more power. In reality it's only about a 10% weight reduction. Each piston weighs 598 g and each rod weighs 862g. So they are definately hefty. Each rod weighs almost 2 lbs and each piston 1 lb. Does anyone else think it ironic that 454 grams = exactly 1 pound? Anyone else curious how many pounds of steel are spinning around in these things?


The crankshaft is a 7416 casting which was used in 70 LS6 Chevelles. But also in truck motors and marine motors thruout the 80s and even the 90s.

7416 LS6 crank
Let's hope it's more like 75 pounds
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