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Good news!I cleaned the throttle body on my truck and it runs better....
As for this, I was able to get the end of lug wrench from that truck on the tube coming from below and I managed to change the shape a little but not where it goes into the block.
Last question, can I plug it with something and drive it to someone else and let them take care of it during my spring oil change?
[quote=stingr69]Looks like a failed attempt at a home made dipstick tube. The dipstick tube assembly is 2 pieces of tubing.
I recall ordering 2 pieces when I had the car restored 5 years ago but I also think I remember the guy that did it saying he had problems with it. That could be why the upper tube flange didn't make it all the way down.
Left open it is just an extra crank case vent. But plugging off won't hurt anything. As long as you see oil pressure ALL THE TIME so you know oil level is at least adequate.
Use something smaller than a lug wrench ...small chisel or slot screwdriver ...punch at a small point ... then tap-punch that point toward opposite side.
So if you need more room, how about removing the exhaust manifold, and then going with the visegrip/slidehammer thing-a-ma-jig? After you get the manifold off, you should have more room to get in there with a screwdriver, too, if you want to try the collapsing the tube route. Good luck.
Duane
Skinny lower tube goes in first and stops when the flare hits a ledge about 1/2" down the hole. Use a spare main or head bolt to drive it in if it is new. They will go in pretty easy if it is used. The upper tube will press down in that hole on top of the lower tube. Upper tube stops against the top of the hole in the block. The tubes do not fit inside each other.
-edit-
seems ecklers is securing their photos … so just go to ecklers and enter your year then search for dipstick...you'll find both lower and upper with photos
It'd be a lot easier to remove the exhaust manifold and take it from the top. If you want to tap it out from the bottom, you'll have to drop the pan. Just make sure you know what you're getting into and what else has to be removed to get the pan off.
Duane
It'd be a lot easier to remove the exhaust manifold and take it from the top. If you want to tap it out from the bottom, you'll have to drop the pan. Just make sure you know what you're getting into and what else has to be removed to get the pan off.
Duane
Yeah, no lie! More than likely have to take the ex. manifold off anyhow to drive the lower one into the block. Why not take it off now, reach down, grab the thing with vice grips and yank it out? No need to dork around overthinking it this much.
I had the same thing happen to me about a month ago. Removal was not overly difficult. My engine has headers. I did remove the header from side of the engine. You will need to remove the manifold you have. I ran a tap down the inside of the tube. I believe it was 1/4" NC. Coat the tap with grease, this will keep the metal shavings from falling into the engine. Cut slow removing frequently cleaning the tap and applying new grease. You will have only small amounts of shavings as the tap is on the loose side. Once you have threads cut to the correct depth or about 3/4", run a bolt into the newly cut threads. I then snapped a pair of vise grips just under the head of the bolt and from underneath the car I tapped upward on the vise grips with a small mallet. It came right out. It was in very tight! You can probably use a slide hammer "if" you can get the correct angle from the top. I have a 4 speed car so I temporarily removed the Z bar to give myself the room needed to swing the mallet. Removing the oil pan is an option but was not my first choice. Yes, the lower tube (inside the pan) goes in from the top and the top tube (broke piece in your case) goes on top.
hope this helps,
Norm