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Broken Dipstick Tube

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Old Feb 3, 2019 | 03:26 PM
  #21  
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This is what it should look like. I think they are cheaper elsewhere after you get that one out. This is for a 57 though.
Inner Dipstick tube

Last edited by Buccaneer; Feb 3, 2019 at 03:26 PM.
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Old Feb 3, 2019 | 03:33 PM
  #22  
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I don't think they use those anymore,,1 piece tube in 1972
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Old Feb 3, 2019 | 04:27 PM
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Good news!I cleaned the throttle body on my truck and it runs better....

As for this, I was able to get the end of lug wrench from that truck on the tube coming from below and I managed to change the shape a little but not where it goes into the block.

Last question, can I plug it with something and drive it to someone else and let them take care of it during my spring oil change?

Last edited by BarryB72; Feb 3, 2019 at 04:27 PM.
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Old Feb 3, 2019 | 10:53 PM
  #24  
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[quote=stingr69]Looks like a failed attempt at a home made dipstick tube. The dipstick tube assembly is 2 pieces of tubing.

I recall ordering 2 pieces when I had the car restored 5 years ago but I also think I remember the guy that did it saying he had problems with it. That could be why the upper tube flange didn't make it all the way down.
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Old Feb 4, 2019 | 07:15 AM
  #25  
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Left open it is just an extra crank case vent. But plugging off won't hurt anything. As long as you see oil pressure ALL THE TIME so you know oil level is at least adequate.
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Old Feb 4, 2019 | 10:14 AM
  #26  
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Use something smaller than a lug wrench ...small chisel or slot screwdriver ...punch at a small point ... then tap-punch that point toward opposite side.

upper tube 65-79 vette ecklers
https://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corv...1965-1974.html

lower tube 56L-79 vette ecklers
https://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corv...late-1979.html
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Old Feb 4, 2019 | 01:40 PM
  #27  
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I'll try again from above. Only other chance would be a screwdriver short enough to give me swinging space in here.
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Old Feb 4, 2019 | 04:00 PM
  #28  
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Here's my best shot. Just need a longer screwdriver.
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Old Feb 4, 2019 | 06:05 PM
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No go. Can't get the correct angle with enough force. Like the rams on their first 8 possessions, I'm going to have to punt.
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Old Feb 4, 2019 | 06:50 PM
  #30  
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how 'bout the above fellow's suggestion about visegrip converted to slidehammer? they make em with longer jaws kinda like needle nose pliers.
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Old Feb 4, 2019 | 08:34 PM
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So if you need more room, how about removing the exhaust manifold, and then going with the visegrip/slidehammer thing-a-ma-jig? After you get the manifold off, you should have more room to get in there with a screwdriver, too, if you want to try the collapsing the tube route. Good luck.
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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 09:16 AM
  #32  
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So I don't know how the tubes go together. Do they butt up against each other or does the top slide over the bottom?


If I use the bolt method, related to one of my first questions, will it actually be screwing into the lower tube?

Just wondering if I need to plan on getting a lower tube when I order the upper.

Both still available from GM it appears.

Last edited by BarryB72; Feb 5, 2019 at 09:18 AM.
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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 09:26 AM
  #33  
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probably going to need to drop the oil pan,and push it out from the bottom
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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 12:31 PM
  #34  
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Skinny lower tube goes in first and stops when the flare hits a ledge about 1/2" down the hole. Use a spare main or head bolt to drive it in if it is new. They will go in pretty easy if it is used. The upper tube will press down in that hole on top of the lower tube. Upper tube stops against the top of the hole in the block. The tubes do not fit inside each other.

Last edited by stingr69; Feb 5, 2019 at 12:34 PM.
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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 12:39 PM
  #35  
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maybe this ecklers PHOTO link will work … if not go to ecklers & look up part number

look at big end and see that's what stuck in your block

pn 25-102138-01

https://www.ecklerscorvette.com/prod...d/885/image/0/

-edit-
seems ecklers is securing their photos … so just go to ecklers and enter your year then search for dipstick...you'll find both lower and upper with photos

Last edited by jackson; Feb 5, 2019 at 12:48 PM.
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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 08:00 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by dmaxx3500
probably going to need to drop the oil pan,and push it out from the bottom
I'm leaning this way.
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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 08:14 PM
  #37  
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It'd be a lot easier to remove the exhaust manifold and take it from the top. If you want to tap it out from the bottom, you'll have to drop the pan. Just make sure you know what you're getting into and what else has to be removed to get the pan off.
Duane
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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 08:25 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Duane4238
It'd be a lot easier to remove the exhaust manifold and take it from the top. If you want to tap it out from the bottom, you'll have to drop the pan. Just make sure you know what you're getting into and what else has to be removed to get the pan off.
Duane


it's 2 pieces … upper & lower …

you can knock both out from bottom

or pull one out from top

mole hill's become fn Everest
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Old Feb 5, 2019 | 09:33 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by jackson


it's 2 pieces … upper & lower …

you can knock both out from bottom

or pull one out from top

mole hill's become fn Everest
Yeah, no lie! More than likely have to take the ex. manifold off anyhow to drive the lower one into the block. Why not take it off now, reach down, grab the thing with vice grips and yank it out? No need to dork around overthinking it this much.
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Old Feb 6, 2019 | 07:05 PM
  #40  
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I had the same thing happen to me about a month ago. Removal was not overly difficult. My engine has headers. I did remove the header from side of the engine. You will need to remove the manifold you have. I ran a tap down the inside of the tube. I believe it was 1/4" NC. Coat the tap with grease, this will keep the metal shavings from falling into the engine. Cut slow removing frequently cleaning the tap and applying new grease. You will have only small amounts of shavings as the tap is on the loose side. Once you have threads cut to the correct depth or about 3/4", run a bolt into the newly cut threads. I then snapped a pair of vise grips just under the head of the bolt and from underneath the car I tapped upward on the vise grips with a small mallet. It came right out. It was in very tight! You can probably use a slide hammer "if" you can get the correct angle from the top. I have a 4 speed car so I temporarily removed the Z bar to give myself the room needed to swing the mallet. Removing the oil pan is an option but was not my first choice. Yes, the lower tube (inside the pan) goes in from the top and the top tube (broke piece in your case) goes on top.
hope this helps,
Norm
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