Broken Dipstick Tube
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 258
From: Dublin Ohio
Broken Dipstick Tube
What am I looking at here? Does the second picture show the flange of the upper tube, which in theory would come out if I could get a screwdriver under it and pry?
And then is that the lower tube that is visible in the hole?
72 350
And then is that the lower tube that is visible in the hole?
72 350
Last edited by BarryB72; Feb 3, 2019 at 12:51 AM.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 189
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From: Virginia
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 13,082
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From: SW Florida.
Do you mean to extract that tube? I think it's punched in a pretty good. Maybe a big rental slide hammer with a big coarse sheet metal screw you could thread into it might Bang it out. But odds are you're pulling the oil Pan and banging it out from underneath. Go buy long 1/4 lag bolt from Lowes. Might screw in there good. And enough head to get an L or fork type end on a slide hammer.
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Racer
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 414
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From: Humboldt county Ca
I think I would clean all the paint off around the flange, spray it with PB blaster and try to grab it with vice grips. If you can wiggle it around it will probably pull out. Doesn't look like the flange is totally bottomed against the block. You might have very good luck!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 258
From: Dublin Ohio
Very good luck doesn't normally reside in my garage.
Derek you're idea about getting a bolt in there was why I was wondering if that is the lower tube that you can see in the hole. If so then I'll be attempting to pull the whole thing out not just the broken end.
If this is all I have to get out I may have a chance though.
Derek you're idea about getting a bolt in there was why I was wondering if that is the lower tube that you can see in the hole. If so then I'll be attempting to pull the whole thing out not just the broken end.
If this is all I have to get out I may have a chance though.
Last edited by BarryB72; Feb 3, 2019 at 11:50 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
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If your concerned about dirt, hook an air hose to the pvc hose and pressurize the crankcase.
Worst case, if it drops into the pan, it will make its way to the bottom of the sump, and not hurt a thing.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
that is all. clean vacuum...the stuff a bit of rag in hole ...the have at it … i'd try peening at right angle with dull chisel … to collapse side inward ...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
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From: Cool Northern Michigan
I feel for ya Barry. That's an awful spot to get at with the exhaust, steering and master cylinder in the way.
I would be cautious of threading anything into that soft metal as that could introduce shavings into the oil pan.
I believe Vise-Grips tools has a tool that will latch onto something, but also has a slide hammer designed into the tool. Wouldn't that be slick right about now?
I would be cautious of threading anything into that soft metal as that could introduce shavings into the oil pan.
I believe Vise-Grips tools has a tool that will latch onto something, but also has a slide hammer designed into the tool. Wouldn't that be slick right about now?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 258
From: Dublin Ohio
I definitely would love if I could pry up on it and it pops out, or get some vice grips on it, twist it a couple times and it comes loose, but can I get a little more info on the collapsing the tube idea ? Would that just make it more easy to pull out- if i flattened one side?
Last edited by BarryB72; Feb 3, 2019 at 12:31 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
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I definitely would love if I could pry up on it and it pops out, or get some vice grips on it, twist it a couple times and it comes loose, but can I get a little more info on the collapsing the tube idea ? Would that just make it more easy to pull out- if i flattened one side?
When you install the new one, find an open end wrench that just slides over the tube. Smear a little Permatex or similar on it. Push it in by hand, then smack it with the wrench/hammer.
ALIGN it first. It will not twist at all once started. Make an index mark first with a sharpie to get it aligned.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
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If you have enough room and a welder handy put a piece of round stock in the dip stick tube and tack weld it pretty good. Then pull it straight out?
I've turned my vise grip into a slide hammer by taking out the adjusting screw and threaded in a piece of threaded rod. Made a weight out of something then added a double nuts to the end of the threaded rod. The threaded rod still allows the jaw adjustment.
I've turned my vise grip into a slide hammer by taking out the adjusting screw and threaded in a piece of threaded rod. Made a weight out of something then added a double nuts to the end of the threaded rod. The threaded rod still allows the jaw adjustment.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Little Rock AR
Looks like a failed attempt at a home made dipstick tube. The dipstick tube assembly is 2 pieces of tubing. The lower tube is straight and has a flare at the top. The lower tube normally goes down inside the block and the flare stops it at a step in the tube bore. The upper dipstick tube is a bit bigger OD and bent into an arc and has a section that is expanded at the bottom to fit against the top of the block when pressed in. It really looks like you should be able to use a piece of common 3/8" tubing with a flare at the end to create the lower tube piece but you really can't do it. The OD of the original tube is .360" (just a little hair under .375") so a piece of standard (.375") 3/8" bundy flex brake line will not work in that place. Looks like someone may have tried to do that. The flare looks flat like the lower tube was hammered into place. The upper tube does not look original to me either.
Measure the OD of that tube in there and see if it is .375" or .360"?
Measure the OD of that tube in there and see if it is .375" or .360"?
Last edited by stingr69; Feb 3, 2019 at 03:28 PM.