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Be AWARE that IF you remove your trialing arms....and the bushing is shot....you might need to get the trailing arm bushing tool to compress it so you can stake it when you replace it. Some have found other ways of doing this...but they do make a tool to do this.
And IF you do replace them...make sure you file the tapered washer FLAT so when you lay one of your shims on it...NONE of the inner sleeve you just staked is protruding and causing for interference in how the shims can lay FLAT...which CAN effect your alignment.
Took both shims on one side to get clearance. One shim even the largest .147 was to tight no clearance. It may be a problem with the setup tool, I’ll do a final check with the new rear axle to get the real number
Last edited by Marion Cole; Feb 8, 2019 at 09:24 AM.
I hope you realize that using two shims tells me you have something really wrong going on there. I have built 100's of arms and found some without shims, ( real bad rebuild work there), but never one yet that required 2 shims on the bell spacer. I strongly recommend you recheck things before assembling it on the car.
You may need to replace the bell spacers. I never reuse the old ones, I am sure some people reuse the old ones with no problems. Make sure the bearing races are seated all the way that could be a problem to.
I hope you realize that using two shims tells me you have something really wrong going on there. I have built 100's of arms and found some without shims, ( real bad rebuild work there), but never one yet that required 2 shims on the bell spacer. I strongly recommend you recheck things before assembling it on the car.
I have to also agree, I have built so many I have lost count and NEVER did I ever need two shims.
Posting photos of the bell space and or its length could help....because something is not right.
Originally Posted by Gunfighter13
You may need to replace the bell spacers. I never reuse the old ones, I am sure some people reuse the old ones with no problems. Make sure the bearing races are seated all the way that could be a problem to.
I can say that I am one who will reuse a good bell spacer when I inspect it. I have had cars that I did the rear wheel bearings on and 70K miles later...they came back for refreshing and the spacer was not damaged in any way. I guess this falls back on to what each of us chooses to do.
Thanks for the replies. I agree something is wrong, that was why I posted. I tried the largest single shim with a new axle in the hub and pulled in with the installation tool. It was so tight could not turn axle. The races are seated down flat against the seat in the hub. I was careful and watched as the race was driven in that it was going in square.
I am going to use the setup tool to check the old bearings and spacers for a difference to see if one of the new bearings and face is wider. If that is positiv, i’ll Buy a micrometer and measure. Definitely agree something is wrong and will not put together until I get to the bottom of this!
I’ll post pictures later. The new cone spacer measures 1.66 inches. The old one measured 1.68. The old shim was .137 for a total of 1.817 spacer. I tried the old cone and spacer and it was so tight that I could not turn. I found the new outside bearing width measures wider by 30 millimeter. I am very suspect of the bearings and races. I have ordered new ones from Chevrolet and will see how that works
Correction on readings of last post. The difference in bearing thickness is NOT 30 mm it is .3mm. That is .0118 in. The shim pack has shims in graduations of .006 sojust selecting a shim two steps down in size should compensate. I’ll be back on this in four days when the new bearings arrive.