After a brief intermission.... We have LIFTERS! I thought I would try these Comp EDM electrical discharge machined solid lifters with the lubrication hole in the bottom that puts oil directly on the came lobe. The flat tappets need all the help they can get to survive with todays available engine oils.



Small hole in the foot of lifter to increase lubrication to the cam lobes


The heads went together using the stock rocker studs, guide plates, retainers and umbrellas. I know the stock retainers and umbrellas are heavy but they will not be on there forever. The springs installed now are an old set of "brown stripe" GM performance pieces that I had laying around. These will work fine to get me through the break in. I bought a set of stock diameter PAC 1200 Tool Steel circle track springs and retainers to be installed later once the cam is fully broken in. The PAC springs have a much higher spring rate that will allow 7000+ RPM with this cam. Heads are probably already out of gas before that but at least the valve springs are not going to hold me back. Rockers installed now are a good used set of stamped GM "O" long slot type with a new set of prevailing torque adjusting nuts. I will probably switch over to a set of lightly used roller tipped Comp cast steel rockers at the same time as the spring swap. Those Comp rockers are limited to 350# maximum spring pressure and when combined with these PAC tool steel springs the rockers are right at the top of the load limit. Having them already broken in should help them live longer. The Comp roller tips have very rough surface finish on the pivot when new and the friction generated can cause a lot of heat so better to break them in easy. Say a prayer for my cam lobes please.

Heads are on, valves are cold lashed, and the LT-1 aluminum intake is on too. The valve covers are on just set in place for the pictures.


Starting to look like an engine now

Need to add a few more pieces and drop it in.

 

Here is a real old school piece you don't see anymore that I dragged out for this build. Hays Stinger Ignition conversion on a stock distributor. Same company as the Hays clutches (before they sold out). Basically converts an old points style distributor over to magnetic trigger. The reluctor just presses on to the old points cam and the base plate is replaced to accept the Mopar style magnetic pickup. Hooked up to a Hays Stinger 1 box originally but I will use a Crane HI-6 multispark CD box. This setup starts the engine much faster than the points ever did and has a built in adjustable rev limiter. More than enough to fire this engine.


Look what I found in the back of my shelf. Has a quick curve and a B28 vacuum can on it so we will try to run it as-is and see how it goes.

 

Hey Mark....
You sure have kicked it into gear on your build.
Fun to watch.....especially like the distributor rework. The magnetic pickup conversion is a new one to me.
I have a local buddy that showed me his Crane distributor with optical pickup. Found a used one on Ebay for great price.
Now if I could just get 2 cars sold and get back to my vettes.
In the meantime I'll live vicariously thru your build.
Dennis

 

Mark,
Hope I did not jinx you with last post over a month ago.
Whats the latest update?
I just took delivery on my new Dart SHP block 4.125 bore. Going to build a 421.
And I now have the time and funds to punch out a 400 sbc I picked up last year. Want to go .040 over and make a 409 for my daily cruiser.
Nice weather and its car season again......

Take care buddy.

 

I've done two SHP 4.125 blocks using the 3.875 stroker cranks. The owners bought the big 6 inch H beam rods with big ARP 12 point bolts. So it required a lot of pan rail clearancing. But since the bores were so nice I just ran the beater ***** up and down the bores before assembling. You are saving the first overbore for another day. You end up with 415 ci, but what the hay? Big heads and a roller cam is all these big motors need.

 

Thanks for the input.
Got a cam and CR suggestion?

Sorry for the hijack Mark.........

 

Dennis,
Update - dropped the converted distributor in my current engine and adjusted the advance springs to get the timing all in by 2600 RPM. Drove around for a bit and decided to tear apart the front suspension. I do stuff like that. I bought a new bushing press tool and wanted to try it out. So.....new engine is still waiting on the stand and the suspension is apart for a bushing replacement. Too many projects to get anything done I guess.

Can't wait to see your build up thread.

 

Thanks for the update Mark.
Too many project-itis......
I can relate.

 

Stock retainer, rotators, and umbrellas are a NO, NO! Back in the day when I owned and worked on solid lifter motors we generally ran them with 135 - 145# closed and up in your area of 350# at max lift. Other than porting old iron heads a big flow gain can be attained by using Manley ProFlow Valves or even the Raceflow stainless valves. If you attend any of the Historic Motor Racing Association events you will hear and see our old Gen 1 small blocks doing nearly 8000 RPM. I've worked on the historic Trans-Am 310 limited cubic inch dual four barrel Camaros and Mustangs and the SCCA 327 and 350 ci base motored as sold machines where roller lifters and rockers are not allowed

https://www.summitracing.com/nv/parts/man-11823-8 Please enlarge the valve picture and you can see how they are tulip stemmed. Smaller diameter hanging out in the port to allow for more flow. The valve heads are radiused so you don't need to put multi cut seat angles to improve the flow.