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OK so its the blower relay. ill deal with that later - Shouldn't have anything to do with the start system. Also i do not have that Button relay on the firewall.
I have the starter hooked up like this - That part of the harness is new on the starter - It has 1 - small ring purple wire going to the S terminal - then it has 1 big red and another (Cant recall the color)wires that come together to a large ring and of course the battery+ cable all on the large terminal. Then it has a black ground wire that i grounded to the frame. I do not have anything going to the R terminal - Remember i have electronic ignition.
Peterbuilt - Messed with the car again last night. Its hard to do things by yourself - So i got the wife to turn the key to start it while i was holding the relay - Still no start and that relay i was talking about is clicking. when trying to start. Also tried jumping across the starter with just the key on and nothing.
Something is not right ....... I hate working on Bubba's stuff.
The wire colors on that part of the old harness does not match my wire diagram either. Heater element plug, Blower, relay
What would that relay have to do with starting the car? Here is some more pics if that will help. See how the purple wire and blue wire is spliced together? The purple is going to the blower
If you jumped across the S terminal and the battery terminal, and the starter didn't turn, then you need to look at the battery cable connections and ground cable connections. Since you just installed the motor, did you attach the ground cable from the block to the frame? Is the starter/solenoid known good?
Battery ends are new at the battery - Brass with new battery and charged ...... Grounded motor to frame..... Ground cable connection from battery to frame looks good.just under the battery compartment....New re-manufactured starter...... Why would the signal have to go thru the blower relay?
Battery ends are new at the battery - Brass with new battery and charged ...... Grounded motor to frame..... Ground cable connection from battery to frame looks good.just under the battery compartment....New re-manufactured starter...... Why would the signal have to go thru the blower relay?
Not sure of the 75 wiring, but it might be that it is designed to disable the blower and other accessories when starting? But bottom line - you could strip every wire out of the car except the battery cable and ground cables, and jumping the S terminal to the battery cable WILL turn the starter, if the starter & solenoid are good, and the connections are solid (even with the key in the 'off' position). If that doesn't work, then no point in chasing other wiring issues until you have it to that point.
That relay is for the blower motor high speed, the reason it clicks when you go to start is that it is on the accessory circuit and the system is designed to stop all accessories while cranking. Looks like there has been some wiring mods to the blower wiring but it should not affect the start circuit.
Ok jumped the starter with screwdriver and it works. Thought I did that last night, musta been too many beers in. I had the steering column out so going to check the ignition switch next.
Adjusted the ignition switch
Key in off lock position and moved switch forward to front of car and tighten bolts. Next take the console apart for the 5th time to check neutral safety switch.
Had the wife turn key to start and checked with volt meter at S terminal- no voltage. 12.5 volts on big terminal. ??
Yep, the big terminal will always have 12 volts, as that cable runs directly to the battery. The S terminal gets voltage (or should) only when the key is in the start position.
If you don't want to open up the console again, there is another neutral safety switch connector under the dash someplace near where the clutch pedal would be, which would have been used for 4spd manual cars. I'm not sure of the wire colors, but if you find that connector, you can jumper those wires together (paper clip, a piece of wire, etc) to see if that changes anything. If that allows the car to crank over, then your neutral safety switch is most likely bad. If no change, you can verify if there is 12 volts on one of these wires when the key is in 'start'. No voltage indicates a problem 'upstream', possibly the switch - 12 volts there would indicate a problem 'downstream' (not sure if there is a fusible link in that line?).
