Wondering why you thought that needed an adjustment.
The key switch and the ignition switch both must initially be set in a certain position, did you follow Jim Shea's instructions?

http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/?cat=5

About no power on the purple wire at the 'S' terminal, turning the key to start sends power out of the ignition switch (on the purple white wire), before it gets to the NSS switch. Do you have 12 volts there?

 

Peterbuilt - Yes followed Jims procedure on adjustment. Could not find a clutch pedal pig tail for purple wire under dash - Could be when the PO bought the new harness he got it for an automatic trans which I have. So I took the console apart to get at the wires. Here is what I have
1. On harness side from dash - Green /Orange - Pink with white stripe has 12 volts with key on. This is the back up light. Note: back up lights did work before, but now do not work?


2. On harness side from dash - purple and purple/white - No voltage with key on. This should be Neutral safety switch

 

 

 

That red wire with the tape on it is a temp ground wire coming from key switch to make sure the harness is grounded at that terminal on temp controller. When removed same results so that's not the issue. Also cig light works and cig lighter gets hot when pushed in.

 

When you say 'with key on' - do you mean in the 'start' position or just the 'on/run' position? The neutral safety switch wire (one of them) should only have voltage when the key is turned to 'start'. If no voltage there with key turned to 'start', then you have a problem between there and the ignition switch. Not sure about the reverse light circuit - may or may not be related.

 

Unrelated:
Turning both 'thumb wheels' forward might shut off the heater relay.

 

Keens Corvette parts is about 20 min away - Think im going to go and pick up a new ignition switch - $20 bucks and they have it in stock - Ive replaced everything else, Why not, whats another 20 bucks

 

Peterbuilt - What kind of writing is that on the first picture. Cursive who writes in cursive anymore? Thought you might get a laugh.

 

Thanks all. I got it working. Took last night off to regroup. Bought the new switch and it came with directions. May have been the switch but not sure, glad I got the new one. My key switch will not turn backwards into accessory, so the whole time I was setting it in acc instead of off position. My reverse lights work also. I was having a problem with my battery draining overnight. It all makes sense now it was In acc position when I thought it was off. Now onto my goal to have this driving by April 1st. Again thanks to all!

 

 

Good to hear that you got past this little hurdle - wishing you good luck on the April 1 target!

 

Update – Got the Alternator/ steering pump brackets and pulleys sorted out and installed the trans over the weekend – TH400 – Everything bolted up and I go to turn motor over to tighten torque converter bolts. Turn key and booth turn signal lights stay on dimly and the motor will not turn over just clicks. So chasing a ground issue – Here is what I have

1. All interior grounds attached and new

2. Added a ground from the metal bar under the console to the bird cage behind the gauges

3. Ground by the starter motor- from motor block to the frame

4. Ground wire at Alternator from new harness – new bracket cleaned off at bolts and motor

5. Ground from battery to frame clean and tight

6. Ground at alarm horn clean and tight

7. Ground at bottom of Radiator clean and tight

8. Added ground from alt to upper A-Arm

9. Added ground – driver side – from exhaust bolt to bottom of master cylinder

Turn key and same thing happens – WTH

So I put a small jumper wire from the hold down clips on the master cylinder to my engine hoist bracket on the intake manifold – Turn signal lights are now off and went to turn over and the wire sparked, motor turned and wire started getting hot.

OK – Added a bigger ground from the bottom of the master cylinder to the Alternator ground wire harness and it turns over freely.



Question - Why do I need that extra ground on the master cylinder to the Alternator – Is the brake booster not attached to the frame or bird cage?

 

To me, it sounds like the engine is not being grounded to the frame (but is being grounded thru the master cylinder via your extra wires). You said you cleaned the connections, but did you verify that the ground cable between the engine and the frame is not broken inside?

 

Originally no motor or trans with the car. So no ground straps to be found. All the grounds i have added are new 12 gauge wire. I do have some 3/16" dia coated copper wire that i could use. Attach it from the motor mount bolts on engine to the frame. Then start disconnecting the other grounds one at a time to see if it changes.
Man these cars and their grounding issues are a pain in the A""""""""

 

Do you have this wire?

https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...to-frame-72-82

 

OK, that might explain a lot. The ground from the engine to the frame should be similar in gauge to the battery cable - 4 gauge at least? If you used 12 gauge, you might have already melted the ground cable.

 

Yea its trial and era - Still have the Alum radiator with electric fans, hoses, and Carburetor and side pipes to buy and install. Of course down to all the expensive items. Sooooo close but yet so far away.

 

No i dont - Would that bolt to the stud on the body off the starter?

 

It bolts to the top starter reinforcement bolt and to a motor mount bolt.
Its purpose is to ground the block to the frame.