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Roller cam in my rebuilt/upgraded 355 L-82 now and the ONLY way to go. I am SO GLAD i went roller for all the reasons already mentioned AND it will make at least 30 HP more than a flat tappet cam of similar spec.
My 01 Grand prix with 3.1 V6 and roller cam has 220,000 miles on it now and going strong. Does not burn an oz of oil between 5,000 mile oil changes........ZERO and I drive high speed consistently for extended periods of time, 80-85 MPH, with this V6 and 220,000 miles on the engine with the roller cam.....
Ever since we've devised a method to use any hyd-roller or mech-roller cams in most of 100% stock-appearing early SBC builds w/o the need for any cam buttons or any chasing cam end play we've done almost all (recently) using this method.
Makes assembling these units a virtual "walk-in-the-park" now, and most customers choose this method.
Willing to enlighten a roller converter abroad? Looking into purchasing a complete retro-fit kit from comps, this sounds like a money and time (which also means money) saver...
Must be luck of the draw. 185k 5.3 and pretty sure I got a lifter going bad or losing a lobe; had an XFI280 laying around that went flat at 18k, many of the new Gen LSx cars losing GM lobes/lifters.
Flat tappets are always a good option for the guy who just doesnt have a lot to spend ordoesnt care about "all the power"
That must be a guy thing. This girl wants all the power she can get for the $ spent.
I simply can't make a solid argument that would suggest going a little bit cheaper for the flat tappet cam is ever "worth it".
I mean really there is saving a few unnecessarily spent extra dollars and then there is "cheap to a fault". A roller cam is very inexpensive HP and Reliability purchased, IMO.
Howards Roller .525/.525 Lift, duration 219/225, LSA110 with AFR heads and10.2 compression in the 355. Makes BIG mid range torque and strong top end HP to 6,000 RPM with 1 3/4 long tube headers......
Chevrolet Small Block 305ci-350ci 1987-1998 Firing Order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
But then roller is the only way to go then the guy puts a carb on top , wouldnt a carb be like a bias ply tire?
Nope!
Now you're talking about something entirely different.
Not only is the conversion to EFI considerably more expensive as up date to modern tech......it's also not as stealth.
For the person who wants the car to remain period specific in it's appearance and how it works a roller cam gives them a chance to add performance and reliability without changing the over all experience of the car as it was originally built.
From: Into the Mystic And yet, despite the look on my face, you're still talking TN
St. Jude Donor '09 thru '25
I regret cheaping out on my rebuild two years ago with flat tappet and iron heads and now I'm going with a roller cam and aluminum heads like I should have done to begin with.
Now you're talking about something entirely different.
Not only is the conversion to EFI considerably more expensive as up date to modern tech......it's also not as stealth.
For the person who wants the car to remain period specific in it's appearance and how it works a roller cam gives them a chance to add performance and reliability without changing the over all experience of the car as it was originally built.
I dissagree with you sir , your the first post mentioning period specific or stock apperance if thats what you mean , most are just saying or pointing out that roller is superior hands down to flat tappet cams , I do agree but at the same time using a carb is the same thing old tec , FI is superior to carbs any type. Yes it cost more!
If the subject was "in keeping with stock apperance" are rollers better I would not mention FI although you could use a tbi style and hide it under a stock air cleaner.
This is the roller setup http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=4538 I'm using in my 454 w/trips.....when I had the short block rebuilt......the machine shop liked the choice and feels it will be just fine.....also the thought of no break-in was very appealing....anxious to get it fired-up soon....somewhat expensive...yes.....but worth it for piece of mind in the future....
Last edited by 74 LS4-454; Mar 3, 2019 at 05:35 PM.
It's a no contest hydraulic roller. It's better to save up the extra dollars and go roller cam even if someone is budget conscious. A car with a freshly rebuilt engine with a flat tappet cam strikes me a major negative.
I've ran a hydraulic roller cam 389,500+ miles in a 305 91 Camaro. It still ran great when pulled for a LS swap.
Must be luck of the draw. 185k 5.3 and pretty sure I got a lifter going bad or losing a lobe; had an XFI280 laying around that went flat at 18k, many of the new Gen LSx cars losing GM lobes/lifters.
Flat tappets are always a good option for the guy who just doesnt have a lot to spend or doesnt care about "all the power"
Lots of reasons it can happen. Not having enough seat pressure on the valve springs will definitely wipe a lobe. Think of a lifter bouncing on the lobe. That bouncing will chip the cam causing it to Pit and it’s all downhill from there. Another reason this happens is with agressive lobes like Comps XRE lobes is not running titanium retainers. Seat pressures and valve train weight are even more critical with agressive lobes like these.
When I built my 406 it was get a hydraulic roller or get a new pair of heads......guess which one I did?
I know how to break in a flat tappet cam......and I knew that the cam I chose would break in well without issue as I had used that cam a dozen time dozen the years.
Also with the 3.750 stroke I did not want any cam to rod clearance issues and I have none with the FT.......but a roller I am sure would have hit.
It was a $500 question......my car runs fine and yours will too.......
Would it make more power with a HR? Probably.....but it makes so much power now that until tires and chassis are sorted, it is unable to use it.
Yes the HR is better overall.......every car you see on the road today has a roller follower in there somewhere be it OHC or OHV.......but before 1990...Chevorlet had
built about a billion engines with FT cams......and so did everyone else.
Your call.....but to me it is a money thing.
Roller cam in my rebuilt/upgraded 355 L-82 now and the ONLY way to go. I am SO GLAD i went roller for all the reasons already mentioned AND it will make at least 30 HP more than a flat tappet cam of similar spec.
My 01 Grand prix with 3.1 V6 and roller cam has 220,000 miles on it now and going strong. Does not burn an oz of oil between 5,000 mile oil changes........ZERO and I drive high speed consistently for extended periods of time, 80-85 MPH, with this V6 and 220,000 miles on the engine with the roller cam.....
Howards Roller .525/.525 Lift, duration 219/225, LSA110 with AFR heads and10.2 compression in the 355. Makes BIG mid range torque and strong top end HP to 6,000 RPM with 1 3/4 long tube headers......
Chevrolet Small Block 305ci-350ci 1987-1998 Firing Order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
Is your Howard roller on a steel core or cast core?
-edit-
also, isn't that pn 181145-10 shown to fit 1987 - up with OE roller cams ... same grind likely available for earlier (L82 )block but with another pn.
I dissagree with you sir , your the first post mentioning period specific or stock apperance if thats what you mean , most are just saying or pointing out that roller is superior hands down to flat tappet cams , I do agree but at the same time using a carb is the same thing old tec , FI is superior to carbs any type. Yes it cost more!
If the subject was "in keeping with stock apperance" are rollers better I would not mention FI although you could use a tbi style and hide it under a stock air cleaner.
Start a new thread on this subject and you may find you could not be more wrong.
EFI is better in some aspects, but if you want more horsepower any engine builder will tell you and the dyno tests will show that a well tuned and set up carb will produce more torque and horsepower every time.
Start a new thread on this subject and you may find you could not be more wrong.
EFI is better in some aspects, but if you want more horsepower any engine builder will tell you and the dyno tests will show that a well tuned and set up carb will produce more torque and horsepower every time.
Ya I am sure carbs are the way to go , what size carb is on a Z06? Or Demon ?
Some other interesting comments though for sure about the roller , that gives me something to think about if you can get 30hp by going roller ... I thought I saw a Edlebrock kit with alum heads , roller cam ect that looks like a good deal.
Willing to enlighten a roller converter abroad? Looking into purchasing a complete retro-fit kit from comps, this sounds like a money and time (which also means money) saver...
The fact that the cam button AND measuring cam end play and shimming the button is eliminated with our setup is a "positive" for assembling these builds!
We supply the tooling to set up these blocks and sell the kits with all the correct pieces to get it done. The one and only drawback is this procedure must be done when all the machining is being done, it cannot be machined "in the car" (at least I wouldn't try it).
The cam and lifter package (only) should be in the neighborhood of $650.00, give or take a few! We use both Morel's and Comp's rerto-hyd lifters, the Comp's are a bit more expensive but many of my own customers ask for these. I've had no issues using either brand so far!
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. We stay with the "stepped-nose" cast core cams on most of our 100% stock-appearing builds, this allows for the use of the OEM fuel pump pushrods AND the OEM distributor gears. With this cam setup, our true-roller "Torrington" timing sets, and our modification to the blocks, we get .003"/.004" cam end-play every time. No "hassles" and absolutely no timing cover issues, the cover is no longer in play with the cam thrust-plate setup.