jackson

Many race cars with sbc/BBC have threaded plugs instead of driven. That's done when block out of car.

Is there room to get a large pipe tap into position?

Cavu2u

There just isn't.

But, here's what I had to come up with.


I had this cheap claw hammer with the shallow bend claw. The long claws cleared the Engine Mount nubs for a straight-in and even contact with the plug. A lot of tap-tap-tap, but that lent itself to checking the evenness of the side depths often (and to see if I was getting any f@%*ing where with this method ).



Here's the result. I'm not really sure what else I can do at this point, except wait until tomorrow and do a fill check. Not sure if an even layer of extra silicone around the plug would help, but couldn't hurt. No?

Fingers crossed.
Steve

HeadsU.P.

You are a master at this. Looks good. In the morning I think I would smear one more layer of goop on the seam, just for the gipper.

Cavu2u

Thanks for the kind word.
And one can also become a Master at this.


I smeared a little more on, around the entire edge, just now. Thought it might stick better to an uncured coat.

Anyway, we'll find out.
Steve

jackson

Aww, shucks ... nuthin' to it at all! It's all done with mirrors! easy, just mirrors,

Cavu2u

Filling.


And hoping.

HeadsU.P.

Too bad there is not a way to use about 20 lbs of compressed air to check that instead of water.

wendellp601

Would it be possible to use a cooling system pressure tester along with some soapy water sprayed on the freeze plug to check this?

HeadsU.P.

What if, Mr. Spock. What if. You used a pressure tester?

wendellp601

Like suggested in post #2?

Cavu2u

HEY! All assembled, wheel on, jackstands removed, back on the ground.
Filled.


Header attached.


Solid copper Collector Gasket used.


Spark Plugs and Temp Sensor installed last.


No leaking yet, but of course the real test will be heat and 16 psi. Will hook up the Negative Cable to the Battery tomorrow, take it for a drive, and see.
This thread could be done.


Steve

Cavu2u

Well, it appears this leak is fixed, as the Freeze Plug is holding great after 2 days of driving.

The thread started out as WHAT was leaking, and I was glad it wasn't the Cylinder Head.
Then it went to how to replace a Freeze Plug that was directly under an engine mount.
Got lotz of good help and suggestions along the way, of which I am truly grateful.

Thanks much.
Steve

jackson

Great!

I hear there's a gent in La Jolla who has same problem, same location ... you're on it, right?

Cavu2u

No! I'll be watching. Thanks.

Steve

jim-81

Wow - awesome thread. Glad you got it fixed and good job documenting the process. So cool to see the final outcome, so many threads start off with a problem and you don't get to see the solution.

L-46man

One thing I find in diagnosing these problems is buying a UV flashlight.
1.Steam clean engine.
2. Jack it up so you can get underneath.
3. run engine to operating temp.
4. Shut down
5. Scan with UV flashlight...the A/F will glow like crazy at the leak.

Remember ; USUALLY fluid leaks flow DOWN AND BACK...so progress to the front and up.

Good luck.

unkahal