Repairing a "Rusty" Q-Jet





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The "mechanic" was telling him that the base of the carb was rusted out, and that "rust had built up in the base of carb bowl." The carb, obviously, needed to be "replaced."
So Tom sent the carb out to me for a checkout. From visual appearance, the carb appeared to be a '74 carb, correct for his car. I think the appearance frightened the "mechanic":
Upon closer inspection, the carb is actually a 1978 454 HD Truck carb, but it can be set up to run on his Vette since he has no other carb available at this time. These HD truck carbs are based off the 1974 passenger car carbs, so it visually looks like a "correct" Vette carb.
But, obviously, the "base of the carb" is not rusted out, and the airhorn has never been removed off the carb, so the mechanic had no way of knowing if "rust had built up in the base of carb bowl." So we raised the BS flag on the "mechanic's" diagnosis and decided to take a look at saving this carb to get Tom's Vette running nicely.
A quick teardown revealed some issues. Notice the blackening in the throttle bores from exhaust gas reversion through the intake system. This is a sign of badly set timing (retarded), which is contributing significantly to the car's poor performance. A well-built carb can never compensate for badly-set timing, so Tom is going to do some tuning once he gets the carb back:
Next little item was the accelerator pump. This is a very common problem on older carbs exposed to modern pump gas: The pump diaphragm swells up, seizes in the pump bore, and gets shear off the pump shaft. Obviously, this accel pump is completely inoperable:
Once the carb was disassembled, run through the hot tank, de-rusted, and assembled, it came out like this:
I never did find any rust in the bowl in the carb - the carb was remarkably clean on the inside and free of any corrosion or rust. This is certainly not a carb that should have been discarded and replaced. It just needed a little attention.
The carb then went on the test engine for setup and verification. It fired up instantly, and ran well. Here is the carb running on the engine:
Running cold with the choke closed and cracked open by the pulloff. The cold fast idle speed had been set really high, which was probably done to "force" the engine to idle with the retarded timing spec. I lowered the fast idle from 2000 rpm down to about 1350:
Once warmed up, I ran it with the choke wide open, and set up the hot idle speed to about 850:
This produced a perfect hot idle mixture right on the numbers at 14.7:1
So don't let a dirty carb discourage your tuning efforts, and don't listen to incompetent "mechanics." Always set up timing correctly before tackling the carb, and then give the carb a little tuning and attention to make the car run as it should.

Lars
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Phil














