What diff gear ratio?
I have a 11.5 pound flywheel with a 2.89 first gear in a tko600 and with my 650 hp 427 was really nice even for full powered take offs or just minimal clutch slipping just above idle.

I have 0.63 in 5th gear, 23lbs SFI fly wheel, and have the factory 3.70 rear end.
I'm not going to change my 3.70 to 4.11 BUT if I had less then 3.70 then I would have changed to 4.11, when I installed my 5 speed transmission !
Guess this probably doesn't help you. Sorry.
I would say 95% of the diff's I built for an OD trans were 373's, some 411, few 355. You are wise to match the gear to your eng/trans.
Some notes
Toms has gears made for a 3 series case in ratios
308,336.355,373, 411, 433,456 These are USA made by US Gear. The 370 ratio is not offered as the 373 is stronger. A real 370 gear can be purchased but it will be from another company and imported. 273's are long gone. Richmond had 390s same as the GM performance parts catalog from 40 years ago. I stick with US Gear for good reason.
In addition to ratio you need to address other areas within the diff at your power level. If you are coming to the June 15th seminar I can show you everything you would want to know about these diffs.
Guess this probably doesn't help you. Sorry.
After some digging, it seems that Richmond is the only major company that still offers 3.90s.





It's actually kind of pleasant to take off with minimal clutch slipping bio

eg. My local track I made on a simulator and tested different rear ratio's. The 3.08 was usually the fastest with the T56 magnum ratio's.
So for track days what I look for is reaching the max torque / hp RPM near the end of the straights.
eg. my zz383 rpm ~ 5500 in third gear = 109 MPH 3.08 with 3.73 rear = 90 MPH
so on a straight, if the car needs a extra shift to 4th because I reach a red line and lap times are slower. To goal is to keep the engine RPM in the max torque range and long as possible. High gears shorten the time in the max torque RPM ranges. Unless you have a very flat torque / hp curve which then again shifting costs lap times.
Last edited by Metalhead140; May 8, 2019 at 07:49 PM.
OP some may get tired of me posting, but gear it for the cam not the cruise rpm. 6th isnt for acceleration anyways.
Had someone talk me into that almost 30 yrs ago....built 350, 3.08 gear. It was a pooch plain and simple. Liveable rpm on the fwy was no consolation.
Last edited by cv67; May 9, 2019 at 04:10 PM.



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Also, As far as 1st gear being too low with a 2.66 first and 4.56 rear gear, IMO, no its not. The lower 1st gear makes it much easier to drive on the street. Easier to get things moving, especially if you have a decent sized cam, larger heads, big intake and carb . First gear is not too short in normal street driving. With tall rear tires it takes a little effective gear out.

But with my testing when I first installed the T56 with my ZZ383 I got 27.8 MPG (23.4 MPH US) on the one test I did. Total distance driven was ~ 320km (200miles) It would have been better (more accurate) to empty the tank and use more fuel.
Driving speed was 100-115 kph ~ 62 - 72 mph. Did everything to save fuel , coasting down hills, light a steady throttle.
Then at the track a full day session ~ 250km and 82 liters of fuel. ~ 7.4 MPG (US)
Last edited by cagotzmann; May 9, 2019 at 11:11 PM.
Last edited by cagotzmann; May 9, 2019 at 11:10 PM.

Last edited by Metalhead140; May 9, 2019 at 11:27 PM.



If I want to worry about mpg, I drive my Prius.........lol
In my 67 Camaro with the first aftermarket Super T10s (nodular case instead of the aluminum one) back in early 70's I changed my stock 3.73 to a 4.10.
2.64 1st gear
World of distance when launching.







, I'd go with a 2.73.



