Is 220° a normal operating temp?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 587
Likes: 49
From: Belgium
Is 220° a normal operating temp?
Hi guys!
It seems my car runs at 220°F all the time.
is this a normal temp? Being used to european cars it seems very high ( my european classics run at either 82°C or 88°C, 220°F is 105°C)
The car feels very hot too. Even the transmission stick gets warm on long drives. Accesories like the starter motor etc all get too hot to touch.
I have the shroud, front air dam and all seals in place, fan clutch is good. Temp sender is also correct for the gauge.
cheers!
It seems my car runs at 220°F all the time.
is this a normal temp? Being used to european cars it seems very high ( my european classics run at either 82°C or 88°C, 220°F is 105°C)
The car feels very hot too. Even the transmission stick gets warm on long drives. Accesories like the starter motor etc all get too hot to touch.
I have the shroud, front air dam and all seals in place, fan clutch is good. Temp sender is also correct for the gauge.
cheers!
Is my vette stock?? HAHA
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 20,209
Likes: 9,348
From: Im not allowed to tell you
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
IT depends on the conditions I'm driving in. If its cool out it doesnt get up to 210 unless I'm on the highway at 3500 rpm. If its hot out and I'm idling in traffic with the fan clutch it would get close to overheating, but with the electric fan it will go to 210 and sit there. Before I added the tranny tunnel insulation the stick shift would get hot, but the tranny tunnel insulation seams to have that under control. This year I added the foam collar that gets jammed in between the top of the bellhousing and the fire wall.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 18,731
Likes: 2,582
What is your mechanical timing set for, both initial and total?
Are you running vacuum advance in addition to the mechanical?
Do you have a fan with a clutch that is correctly functioning or electric fans?
Are you running vacuum advance in addition to the mechanical?
Do you have a fan with a clutch that is correctly functioning or electric fans?
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
220*F will not harm the engine, if that temp is stable and consistent. Your car {when new} came with a 195*F thermostat and the car likely ran at 200*F level. The T-stat could be sticky and causing engine to run hotter. If the T-stat has not been changed, doing so could solve your problem. Don't forget to also buy the gasket for the T-stat housing.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,451
Likes: 974
From: RI, Now Franklin/Nashville TN
Most of what has been written is accurate... a steady 220 will not hurt the car, but I would not do it, personally, In my opinion, 180 is the perfect temp for all conditions since it leaves a wide margin for temp elevation depending on conditions and is not too cool. Newer cars run higher temps for emissions reasons mostly, although my 01 Grand Prix 3.1 V6 runs about 190 consistently and will creep to 210 in traffic but immediately returns to 190 when the fans kick on. My 78 L-82 and 94 mustang GT ran hot as hades when new and factory correct. Both run now about 180, the L-82 355 with AFR heads and roller cam and the 5.0 V8 with the tranny cooling removed from the radiator.
Short answer is I would target 180-185.......no reason to go higher on these engines.....
Heck, my C6Z06 LS7 427 runs 200........all day long and never moves from that temp in normal driving
Short answer is I would target 180-185.......no reason to go higher on these engines.....
Heck, my C6Z06 LS7 427 runs 200........all day long and never moves from that temp in normal driving
Last edited by jb78L-82; May 31, 2019 at 06:06 PM.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 2,979
Likes: 332
From: Woodinville WA
Search on "Dexcool Sludge". You can end up with 1/2 - 1 cm of sludge covering all internal radiator fins, the inside of the engine block, and basically EVERYTHING.
This was my C3 overheating problem. I drained the radiator and pulled it because I was pulling the engine and replacing the radiator with an aluminum one and then I got to see just how bad dexcool sludge could be.
It's not an easy thing to flush out either...
Drain enough engine coolant out to reveal maybe the top 2" of radiator fins and then look inside the radiator at the fins with a flashlight.
Check ignition timing as others have indicated, too. Torque, MPG, and cooler running engines are all to be had by getting the timing right.
Adam
This was my C3 overheating problem. I drained the radiator and pulled it because I was pulling the engine and replacing the radiator with an aluminum one and then I got to see just how bad dexcool sludge could be.
It's not an easy thing to flush out either...
Drain enough engine coolant out to reveal maybe the top 2" of radiator fins and then look inside the radiator at the fins with a flashlight.
Check ignition timing as others have indicated, too. Torque, MPG, and cooler running engines are all to be had by getting the timing right.
Adam
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 11,948
Likes: 4,506
From: Virginia
Things I'd check: Thermostat (I use 180 deg units), timing (email Lars for his timing papers if you are unsure), and gas.
Go ahead and laugh. "An L48 smog engine is fine with 87 octane." Well, maybe yours is. I had overheating issues, dieseling at shutdown, and the engine was noticeably "hot". I switched to 93 octane, all of these problems went away.
Finally, where are you taking your temperature readings with the IR gun? You want a non-reflective surface, that is in direct contact with hot coolant. I measure the upper radiator hose, near the water neck.
Go ahead and laugh. "An L48 smog engine is fine with 87 octane." Well, maybe yours is. I had overheating issues, dieseling at shutdown, and the engine was noticeably "hot". I switched to 93 octane, all of these problems went away.
Finally, where are you taking your temperature readings with the IR gun? You want a non-reflective surface, that is in direct contact with hot coolant. I measure the upper radiator hose, near the water neck.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 587
Likes: 49
From: Belgium
I'll try to answer everyone in 1 post :
I'm running 36° degrees of mechanic advance (total at 2500 rpm), done as per Lars' papers. Dizzy is also modified as per Lars'
I'm running a vacuum advance too, wich is stock
thermostat is a new 195° stat, although a new part doesn't guarantee it works ( recently had a faulty new condenser for our mustang, what a joy of troubleshooting that).
running 98 RON fuel + lead replacement, thats equal to your 93 octane if im not mistaken.
I have a mechanical fan with a fan clutch, I tested the clutch by trying to stop the fan once hot with a piece of carboard. Dont know if thats a good test or not though
I'm running 36° degrees of mechanic advance (total at 2500 rpm), done as per Lars' papers. Dizzy is also modified as per Lars'
I'm running a vacuum advance too, wich is stock
thermostat is a new 195° stat, although a new part doesn't guarantee it works ( recently had a faulty new condenser for our mustang, what a joy of troubleshooting that).
running 98 RON fuel + lead replacement, thats equal to your 93 octane if im not mistaken.
I have a mechanical fan with a fan clutch, I tested the clutch by trying to stop the fan once hot with a piece of carboard. Dont know if thats a good test or not though
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 587
Likes: 49
From: Belgium
Drove it today in 90°weather
230 degrees while cruising. Flushed the radiator, replaced with 100%water and drilled a small bleeder hole in the thermostat as a last resort. But no improvement.
I'll be ordering a new aluminium radiator and go from there.
230 degrees while cruising. Flushed the radiator, replaced with 100%water and drilled a small bleeder hole in the thermostat as a last resort. But no improvement.
I'll be ordering a new aluminium radiator and go from there.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 6,362
Likes: 30
From: Oak Harbor WA
An older radiator can cause this if not enough water is flowing through it to provide enough heat transfer, or not enough air passing through it because it is clogged up with crud and road debris (or both issues).
Hate to read you are replacing the radiator without truly knowing if it will fix the issue, but since you are ordering a new radiator already lets see what happens once that is installed.
Don't forget new hoses while you are in there. Speaking of hoses, did you make sure the lower hose was not collapsing when it got hot?
Hate to read you are replacing the radiator without truly knowing if it will fix the issue, but since you are ordering a new radiator already lets see what happens once that is installed.
Don't forget new hoses while you are in there. Speaking of hoses, did you make sure the lower hose was not collapsing when it got hot?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 587
Likes: 49
From: Belgium
An older radiator can cause this if not enough water is flowing through it to provide enough heat transfer, or not enough air passing through it because it is clogged up with crud and road debris (or both issues).
Hate to read you are replacing the radiator without truly knowing if it will fix the issue, but since you are ordering a new radiator already lets see what happens once that is installed.
Don't forget new hoses while you are in there. Speaking of hoses, did you make sure the lower hose was not collapsing when it got hot?
Hate to read you are replacing the radiator without truly knowing if it will fix the issue, but since you are ordering a new radiator already lets see what happens once that is installed.
Don't forget new hoses while you are in there. Speaking of hoses, did you make sure the lower hose was not collapsing when it got hot?
But cant see anything else being wrong, got a new air dam, I added extra foam around the rad to get more air through it, fan clutch should be okay, hoses are all new , timing is spot on as per lars' papers, fuelling looks okay too...
Edit: pump is a new one too since the restoration.
The lower hose is one of those corrugated ones with a spring in it
Last edited by Dusky; Jun 2, 2019 at 01:34 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 6,362
Likes: 30
From: Oak Harbor WA
What type of fan is it? Factory type or an aftermarket straight bladed unit? Factory fans pull real good amounts of air. Not all aftermarket fans are created equal.
Same can be said of the radiator as well.
Same can be said of the radiator as well.
Last edited by Goody; Jun 2, 2019 at 01:53 PM.
Is my vette stock?? HAHA
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 20,209
Likes: 9,348
From: Im not allowed to tell you
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
I dont remember but did you say you have the fan shroud on there with the clutch fan, that makes a big difference too
Racer
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 421
Likes: 27
From: Harrisburg PA
Haven't ordered it yet
But cant see anything else being wrong, got a new air dam, I added extra foam around the rad to get more air through it, fan clutch should be okay, hoses are all new , timing is spot on as per lars' papers, fuelling looks okay too...
Edit: pump is a new one too since the restoration.
The lower hose is one of those corrugated ones with a spring in it
But cant see anything else being wrong, got a new air dam, I added extra foam around the rad to get more air through it, fan clutch should be okay, hoses are all new , timing is spot on as per lars' papers, fuelling looks okay too...
Edit: pump is a new one too since the restoration.
The lower hose is one of those corrugated ones with a spring in it
Pump is a new one since restoration? Are you sure this was the correct pump. If you put a newer pump on (will bolt on) that is meant for a serpentine system, it is "reverse flow."
Also, on the pump--is it a "high flow" pump? Sometimes that causes problems on cars that run high RPM's on the highway, as the coolant does not spend enough time cycling through the radiator to cool down sufficiently.
Does this happen regardless of road condition, or just when cruising down the highway? If highway only, then that eliminates your fan/fan clutch issue. More air flows through at highway speeds than the fan could ever pull.
If only at highway, I would also swap out the bottom hose for a correct one t make sure the hose is not collapsing on itself.
If this is heating up regardless of driving conditions, the radiator could have some clogged cores. I'd see if a radiator shop could clean it up and pressure test it before I spent money on anew radiator.
Last edited by keithl1967; Jun 2, 2019 at 03:30 PM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 587
Likes: 49
From: Belgium
Pump is a new one since restoration? Are you sure this was the correct pump. If you put a newer pump on (will bolt on) that is meant for a serpentine system, it is "reverse flow."
Also, on the pump--is it a "high flow" pump? Sometimes that causes problems on cars that run high RPM's on the highway, as the coolant does not spend enough time cycling through the radiator to cool down sufficiently.
Does this happen regardless of road condition, or just when cruising down the highway? If highway only, then that eliminates your fan/fan clutch issue. More air flows through at highway speeds than the fan could ever pull.
If only at highway, I would also swap out the bottom hose for a correct one t make sure the hose is not collapsing on itself.
If this is heating up regardless of driving conditions, the radiator could have some clogged cores. I'd see if a radiator shop could clean it up and pressure test it before I spent money on anew radiator.
Also, on the pump--is it a "high flow" pump? Sometimes that causes problems on cars that run high RPM's on the highway, as the coolant does not spend enough time cycling through the radiator to cool down sufficiently.
Does this happen regardless of road condition, or just when cruising down the highway? If highway only, then that eliminates your fan/fan clutch issue. More air flows through at highway speeds than the fan could ever pull.
If only at highway, I would also swap out the bottom hose for a correct one t make sure the hose is not collapsing on itself.
If this is heating up regardless of driving conditions, the radiator could have some clogged cores. I'd see if a radiator shop could clean it up and pressure test it before I spent money on anew radiator.
That's the pump I have.
It's always overheating, it was worse on the highway but cured that with the foam seals around the radiator.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 587
Likes: 49
From: Belgium
Id love a dewitts setup but dont know if its worth it for me
