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Is 220° a normal operating temp?

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Old Jun 5, 2019 | 09:30 AM
  #21  
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Dewitts is having a free shiping sale, also if you are buying a small block radiator they make an extra large radiator that fits the small block mounts
And the dual electric spal fans

Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Jun 5, 2019 at 09:37 AM.
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Old Jun 5, 2019 | 10:42 AM
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Your testing of the thermo fan system is not correct. When the engine is up to operating temps (in your case, 220*F), the thermo fan should be fully engaged. If you watch the fan when you turn the engine OFF, it should come to a complete stop within 2-3 revolutions. If it does not (keeps turning freely), your fan clutch has "expired". In other words, you should not have to "try to stop it with a piece of cardboard"; it should stop on its own. Otherwise, it is not fully engaged (if engaged at all), and is just free-wheeling in air, instead of forcing air thru the radiator.

I think you need to replace your thermo fan.
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Old Jun 5, 2019 | 10:56 AM
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No more than 190° on my then L-82, still the cabin is a hot box.
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Old Jun 5, 2019 | 06:08 PM
  #24  
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This doesnt look too good either i think.

Will check the clutch van again next time i get it hot enough Although i always thought the clutch van caused only overheatingat lowspeeds
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Old Jun 5, 2019 | 06:17 PM
  #25  
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When you're driving, the fan doesn't matter as much, or at all. I did a 15 minute test drive yesterday (L48 4-speed) with NO fan. 180 degree thermostat. With an IR gun, I checked the temperature of both the upper radiator hose and heater core bypass immediately after I stopped. They were 185 degrees.
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Old Jun 5, 2019 | 06:30 PM
  #26  
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Hard to tell by the picture but do you have a six blade or seven blade fan?

And yes, the rad needs an acid dip.

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Jun 5, 2019 at 06:32 PM.
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Old Jun 6, 2019 | 12:46 AM
  #27  
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You might be able to get rid of much of that lime buildup by getting some 'radiator cleaner' (not flush) and going thru the process listed on the jug. It can be found in most auto parts stores, right next to the radiator flush stuff. It takes some effort and time to use it properly; but if it saves pulling or replacing the radiator, it would be well worth it. I used it on my '71 car's radiator about 10 years ago and it did a really good job. It will stay that way if you use nothing be antifreeze and distilled water (low $ at grocery stores).

Last edited by 7T1vette; Jun 6, 2019 at 12:46 AM.
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Old Jun 6, 2019 | 03:53 AM
  #28  
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I have a 6 blade fan.
At work we sell liquimoly radiator cleaner, its supposed to clean like deposits out. I've already used that but didnt do much maybe needs more?
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Old Jun 6, 2019 | 04:17 AM
  #29  
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http://www.liqui-moly.eu/liqui-moly/...cument&land=GB
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Old Jun 6, 2019 | 09:16 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Your testing of the thermo fan system is not correct. When the engine is up to operating temps (in your case, 220*F), the thermo fan should be fully engaged. If you watch the fan when you turn the engine OFF, it should come to a complete stop within 2-3 revolutions. If it does not (keeps turning freely), your fan clutch has "expired". In other words, you should not have to "try to stop it with a piece of cardboard"; it should stop on its own. Otherwise, it is not fully engaged (if engaged at all), and is just free-wheeling in air, instead of forcing air thru the radiator.

I think you need to replace your thermo fan.
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Old Jun 15, 2019 | 02:55 PM
  #31  
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New radiator, 40 minute run including 20 km highway
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Old Jun 15, 2019 | 06:22 PM
  #32  
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Probably the best solution to your problem. Putting that clogged-up rad 'out to pasture' was merciful.
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