Vibration
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 28
Likes: 2
7501 air gap and the holly 750 ultra double pumper made from billet aluminum its to much for the heads I got on it right now. but will work with the new afr 210 cc eliminator heads im just collecting parts for my new engine but I do need help picking the right parts. I got the rotating assembly from white performance the heads from summit and the intake and carb from jegs I shopped the prices. Now when I build my mad money up a little going to buy a block with the roller cam because the retro cam kits are twice a high. some input would be nice.
I would like to change the cam in the engine I have now to give it a little more lop. When I get the new engine done going to sell the old one to a friend of my
I would like to change the cam in the engine I have now to give it a little more lop. When I get the new engine done going to sell the old one to a friend of my
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 8,130
From: Napa Valley California
Remember that everything from the fan to the rear gears needs to work together to make everything work right.
Pick the wrong cam for your style of driving, highway cruising or light to light quickness and you and your engine will be unhappy.
Wrong heads with your cam and pistons is a whole other set of problems.
Depending on your entire setup that new Holley could be all wrong.
Plan every detail before you start purchasing your parts.
Sounds to me like you are still planning this build, and you may want to hold off purchasing anything more until you have a complete set up planned and set in stone.
Another thing to keep in mind is how much hp and torque your new engine will put out.
OEM rear ends won't take a whole lot of hp or torque and you may find yourself upgrading everything from the flywheel back.
Pick the wrong cam for your style of driving, highway cruising or light to light quickness and you and your engine will be unhappy.
Wrong heads with your cam and pistons is a whole other set of problems.
Depending on your entire setup that new Holley could be all wrong.
Plan every detail before you start purchasing your parts.
Sounds to me like you are still planning this build, and you may want to hold off purchasing anything more until you have a complete set up planned and set in stone.
Another thing to keep in mind is how much hp and torque your new engine will put out.
OEM rear ends won't take a whole lot of hp or torque and you may find yourself upgrading everything from the flywheel back.
Last edited by OldCarBum; Aug 21, 2019 at 07:37 PM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 28
Likes: 2
Ok for about 500 hp will a 95 and up GM 4 bolt block work or do I need to go with a after market block And I figured the elimanator heads would be good for about any build and upgrade I might do in the future
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,739
Likes: 630
From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
OP
Look in any Chev/GMPP catalog at block list ... and see Street Grey Iron blocks are CONSERVATIVELY rated max 350-450 hp.
Suggest if you truly think you'll be at 500 hp ... you have a shop blueprint /check block ... lifter bore alignment, cam tunnel, bores square to crank etc etc.
Suggest, henceforth you skip "skip" ... despite marketing hype, too many sob stories.
'86-up block ... suppose your new Scat crank is for 1 pc rms.
Look in any Chev/GMPP catalog at block list ... and see Street Grey Iron blocks are CONSERVATIVELY rated max 350-450 hp.
Suggest if you truly think you'll be at 500 hp ... you have a shop blueprint /check block ... lifter bore alignment, cam tunnel, bores square to crank etc etc.
Suggest, henceforth you skip "skip" ... despite marketing hype, too many sob stories.
'86-up block ... suppose your new Scat crank is for 1 pc rms.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 8,130
From: Napa Valley California
Again the heads you pick depends on everything else in your build.
The big questions for me are always,
1. What are you going to use your car for,
2. What is your driving style,
3. What rpm's will you be revving the engine to, and
4. Where in the rpm range do you want to make the most power?
Answer those before you start planning the engine and drive train.
Examples:
A big loppy high lift cam with an operating range of 4000 to 7000 rpm will kill your low end performance and cause you problems cruising down the highway at 2000 rpm running that 750 Holley.
Large rectangle port heads would work great on my 496 if I was revving the engine up to 7000 rpm's, but useless for my street car that will never run in that rpm range and where an oval port head design will work best.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 28
Likes: 2
I am going to use it for weekend driving and spinning tires my driving style cruising and a littlie hot rodding I figure up to 6000 rpm most power between 3000 to 4000 I am looking at a cam for the engine that's in there now its a k12-600-4 its a compcam called thumpr I don't know if its rite for that engine but I like the sound I just want my vette to sound good until I get my new engine figured out an together
