The existing power window switches in my '73 had been rebuilt a few times and eventually got to the point the contacts were just worn too much and all the crimp points on the housings had broken. I first replaced them with a set of reproduction switches from one of the vendors but those lasted less than a year. I started looking for aftermarket switches that were mostly plug and play. I ended up finding some power window switches that fit the existing holes (7/8" x 1-1/8") in the console perfectly.

This is what I came up with:



It's a double pole switch so the contacts on one side are not needed. I covered them with heat shrink tubing.

Here are the one's I actually purchased: Link

They were only $5 each. 20 Amp rated. So far they work very well and it'll be easy to go back to the factory look if needed. The ones I bought have the graphic arrows on them. Some others I found had different graphics and some were just black with no graphics. The key is to make sure they are the correct physical size as there are tons of switches available out there for larger openings.

Here's a pic from the back side of the console:



No mods necessary to the console. I had to cut the existing wires and install some female spade terminals on the ends. If I want to use factory style switches again someday, it'll be easy enough to reconnect the wires.

Hope this helps anyone else who needs new switches and doesn't mind that these don't look original. I'll post back if I have any issues with these.

DC

 

Nice find, (hopefully they'll last longer than the repops)
Always helps when they fit the openings without having to modify the crap out of everything

M

 

The permanent solution to the C3 window switch conundrum is to insert power relays into the circuit. As designed, these switches have ALL of the applied current flowing thru them. Over time, the contact arcing creates carbon deposits which add resistance to the circuit. When that resistance begins to approach the [low] resistance of the window motors, they appear to slow down or even quit.

Solution: stick power relays in the circuit so that THEY handle the current and the switches only see the current to actuate those relays. FIXED! Any future problems? Replace a $5 relay when necessary.

 

Yup, I totally agree. And as an added bonus, I found that the windows actually go up and down a hell of a lot faster. Full juice to the motors I assume.

 

OEM wiring- has full power running through the switches- the contacts are subject to arcing and the voltage drop will not let the motors work at their best. So replacing the switches that are of a better quality really don't solve the problem.

Using four Bosch relays to control the up and down - the motors will run faster and the switches will last forever.

In pic- Right side -the relays have been added- left side is OEM wiring


I'm actually running Jaguar (Lucas- the prince of darkness) switches in mine with relays!!!

 

7T1,
Can you share some more info on this upgrade?
Sounds like a good fix. I've done this with the headlamps on all my vintage cars and found not only less draw on my old wiring, but much brighter headlights too.
Where did you place the relays, what wiring did you alter, etc?
Any pics?
Greg

 

Whoa! Looks like Ernie jumped in at the same time. Thanks.

 

I modded Ernie's drawing with his permission...

Should note to use a self resetting circuit breaker rather than the term "fused"

Richard

I just put the relays under the console-

 

i got my vette in Oct 2010, within a couple of months i had to repair the switches a couple of times already,

so in Jan 2011 i added relays under the arm rest, plug n play, easily switched () back if needed.

 

And where the hell do you put the 4 relays? I like this idea a lot and may just do the drivers side one as it is the one that is used constantly........but where to put the relays? I have some flat Panasonic type relays that are 20a and much smaller (Flat and long)........I use these on Vintage *** bike ignitions.

Jebby

 

like others, mine are under the parking brake console, I attached them to the side of the metal reinforcement


M

 

I have become a fan of the 280 micro relays- they are small!!!

 

It may come to that if these $5 switches I found won't stand up. Time will tell.

DC

 

Do you have a source for these relays and also a source for the cool fuse block they are plugged into? Need to store this info in my brain for future use.

DC

 

"Time will tell" you that NO switches hold up over time. Forty-plus years and thousands of C3 owners have proven that. I suppose if you had switches with gold plated contacts and added arc suppressor capacitors, using switches might work long-term.

If you find any gold plated window switches, let me know.....

 

Agree. But, the factory switches are a fairly poor design compared to modern switches and the manufacturing of the current reproduction switches is worse than the design.

A relay is nothing more than a switch. I'd rather replace two switches on occasion than 4 relays. But, given that the factory switches held up for a reasonable period of time when new, it's completely unacceptable that you can't get a single year out of these POS cheap reproduction switches for our cars that are 4 to 5 times the cost of the switches I just installed. Hopefully the more modern technology switches I found will at least be better than those. Modern relays tend to have great duty cycles. If these modern switches have similar duty cycles and hold up as well a relay would, then I'm ahead of the game.

DC

 

Actually, the original GM switches were much BETTER than any aftermarket parts AND most equivalent modern parts. Most modern switches are not built to handle the amount of current needed for window motors...they just switch 'signal' power. You can find 50+ ampere rated switches which will work...but they will still have the same arcing problems. If you can find gold-plated contact switches, get ready with your wallet....

 

If the original switches were better than modern, GM would still be using and making them. Not all modern power window circuits use relays. The power window switches I found are rated at 20 amps which should be more than enough to raise one window motor considering the entire circuit is protected by a 30 amp breaker. These switches are also designed to be power window switches. They are not just an off the shelf momentary contact switch.

You mean like this one for $7.95: https://www.jameco.com/z/7101K2CWCGE...C_2280759.html

Or the ones made by this company: https://www.ckswitches.com/news/post...-applications/

They've been gold plating contacts in switches inexpensively now for a long time. Just like they've been gold plating connectors for use in home stereos. Gold is cheap. Hell, I'd pay $100 per switch if I could find ones that I'd never have to replace again.

DC

 

There will still be a voltage drop no matter how "nice" the switches are....


The relay/fuse holders- the ones I've used are by "Littlefuse"

They use standard Delphi Metri-Pack Series 280 terminals.

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/4598...-Distribution/

Here's the relays- they (Waytek) carry the SPST and SPDT type

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/7573...-Micro-Relay-/

 

I think nearly all modern cars DO feed switches thru relays....for the very reason that you are having problems with yours.