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You have a slow factory ramp cam and stock valve springs. Warranty or not you can report back either way. If they cover it, they are a good supplier. If they don't cover it, we probably need to know about that.
Getting back to to the question about how to flush your motor out after a cam failure any thoughts on that
Did you read my post?
I recommend when installing the new cam that you smother the lobes with Moroso Moly Paste.....a thick substance that doesn't come right off at first fire....and make sure you get the engine started right away.
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; Oct 12, 2019 at 12:17 PM.
Your cam manufacturer will likely make the "burden of proof" on you, that everything was installed correctly and the block was ready. They will question if the cams oil passages in the back of the block were cleaned, plugged, etc.
Not seeing a lot of oil in the lifter valley. Almost looks bone-dry.
The springs are stock with 110 seat pressure that is what the cam called for. Half turn pre load. Been building motors for over 30 years and never seen a cam wipe out that fast ,cam company will not stand behind there product they all say you must have done something wrong , easy out for them .
OP
FWIW, "stock" OE springs are about 80 lb (Genuine GM specs below). Yes, counter-intuitive as most spring first-step upgrade begins at common "z28 spring" @ 110 lb seat.
But 110 ain't the problem and if mfg speced 110 they KNOW that as well.
In addition to Gibbs BI Oil ... Assume lobes & lifter feet smeared with an assembly lube / hi-pressure grease (eg moly-graphite) etc ?
funny, both L48 & L82 OE springs are single w/ damper ... same length & pressure ... page 83 of below pdf ...
FWIW ... 96-02 truck L31 iron Vortec Roller motors' OE springs also 80 lb ...
... even L31's stronger brother ... the Chev Perf 350/357 vortec head roller has OE 80 lb springs ...
... even alum head ZZ4's roller spring 12551483 was only 101 lb on seat ... all counter-intuitive.
I don't believe there is too much spring pressure. And I don't believe the lifters were at fault.
I do believe I will stick with the theory that its an oil starvation issue. 40 mins w/o oil could be a disaster. The break-in stuff would be long gone off of the lobes in 40 mins.
The cam bearing would likely survive awhile just from oil spray. But the lobes would be toast in 39 mins.
It looks like somebody used a roller cam, with flat tappet lifters. Never seen lifters so sunk. For the lifters to "shave" metal that fast, they must have been rocking in their bores. (something else to check)
I believe the damage is so severe that an oil flushing / pan removal, is beyond helping.
I am not saying that's what happened, just speculating. But it sure would explain a lot. If it were the case, who was at fault? Owner? Engine builder? Cam supplier?
Got a great deal on eBay? Could have been anyone, any supplier.
Post # 7 makes me think: h-m-m-m-m-m-m-m-
Hopefully some new photos of lobes / lifter bases are on their way.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Oct 12, 2019 at 05:04 PM.
Guys I have been building engines for my self over 30 years some of the things that are being throw out there, wrong lifter with roller cam / 40 min run time with out oil this is most likely a lifter failure we started the engine for our 20 min 2000 to 2500 rpm break in time, then all necessary tuning that's when things started going south . This sounds like the kind of talk I heard for the cam rep.
Well, I hear ya. Normally when a cam & lifters goes south (from lack of Zinc) it takes months & months of driving for that to happen. Yours happened in a matter of minutes. So all kinds of speculations come up as to why.
I could be wrong, but I find it hard to believe that any cam, even a cheap overseas knock-off could wear that fast unless lubrication was absent. You are at the point now where everyone wants to point fingers. This fault you have witnessed maybe be hard to pin point.
But getting back to the original question: pull the lifters & cam, drop the pan, cut open the filter, go from there.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Oct 12, 2019 at 06:17 PM.
I have been using roller cams , but this motor was going to be a mild street motor for my wife's 1980 and thought it would be a simple build, up it has been a pain in my you no what . Thank yall for all the insight.
Have not built a short block in years, but I do recall the practice of removing the cam (oil) galley plugs and running a long wire brush through the passages from the back of the block. I really suspect that is the issue before blaming a cam company.
Sorry for your do-over project. I can not imagine your frustration. Big job ahead of you but perseverance will reward you another day. Good Luck!
Hello guys I did give the cam manufacturer a chance ,and I did not like what I heard so here is the name of the cam company Erson and PBM lifters. Please I am not saying their cams are bad or the lifters are bad, but they did not work for me. One or two people ask so I said it I know some people use their cams and never have any trouble put I did so you judge for yourself . This is going to coat me around $750 plus all my work.
Last edited by 1tazz; Oct 14, 2019 at 02:00 PM.
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