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Yes, with the shocks removed, the trailing arm will rest on the pocket, so the problem is on the passenger side, likely with your shims.
Perhaps some Kano Kroil will loosen up the shims enough to let you pull them out to replace them with stainless shims (you are doing the trailing arm bushings, right?)
Completely unrelated to your current issue, it looks like the kit from Van Steel comes with their high-arch spring. They also make a low-arch spring, similar to what VB&P used to sell. If it's not to late to contact them and swap (or confirm that you got the low-arch spring), you may save yourself some grief in the future.
Yes, I honestly need to do the bushing while under here...hopefully not opening a can of worms. I need to read up on this whole removal process b/c Im going into uncharted waters.
Thanks for the heads up on the spring...So the spring that was included with the kit was the 360# low-arch spring.
Your initial concern was having a TA lower than the other. Could it be that the real reason is that the u-joints/shafts are attached 90 degrees apart?
Try rotating them 90 degrees to see if the passenger side lowers......
I agree with this, the RH 1/2 yoke is hold the arm up, the LH isn't. There is nothing holding the arms in at this point but the 1/2 shafts and front bushing bolt.If the RH shaft was turned 90* then it would drop the same. You had the spring out so there was no loaded tension, I think the LH arm just dropped and that is what you heard. Remove the shafts and then support and remove the arms. Check the frame pockets for rot or previous mechanics work.
While you are that far into the rear suspension, Removing the T/A'a to inspect them, check/replace the [front] bushings, and check/replace the spindle bearings should be mandatory additions to your work. Expecting much more than 40+ years of good use out of the original bushings & bearings is 'wishful thinking'. Something will have excessive wear or failure in coming years. You don't need to make them into NEW condition. Just give them a significant amount of additional, trouble-free life.
With shocks off the trailing arms will hang down lower ... the shocks bottom out before the trailing arms do in the suspension travel.
The TA front bushing bolts are shimmed and then tightened at ride height so the bushing isn’t torn up from being extended too much one way or the other. Your pass side arm is staying up because it was tightened at ride height and the bushing is holding onto it.
Your shim on the pass side is just too long ... seen it before . Whomever aligned / shimmed it should have trimmed it to fit in the pocket and be held down by the cotter pin.
Your frame looks clean to me I don’t see rot or cracks in the later pics you posted.
Your drivers side bushing material may have let go inside or the shims and bolt are just looser in that side and able to pivot with the TA as it travels.
If your tires wear well and your rear isnt squirrelly then your ok...
With shocks off the trailing arms will hang down lower ... the shocks bottom out before the trailing arms do in the suspension travel.
The TA front bushing bolts are shimmed and then tightened at ride height so the bushing isn’t torn up from being extended too much one way or the other. Your pass side arm is staying up because it was tightened at ride height and the bushing is holding onto it.
Your shim on the pass side is just too long ... seen it before . Whomever aligned / shimmed it should have trimmed it to fit in the pocket and be held down by the cotter pin.
Your frame looks clean to me I don’t see rot or cracks in the later pics you posted.
Your drivers side bushing material may have let go inside or the shims and bolt are just looser in that side and able to pivot with the TA as it travels.
If your tires wear well and your rear isnt squirrelly then your ok...
Thanks for the useful info...Yea, what was gonna be a simple freshening of parts is turning into a whole can of worms. And Im the type thats doesnt wanna half a** things...If Im in there, might as well go ahead replace it. I havent taken the TA’s out yet, just hope it doesnt turn into a nightmare. Hate to bite off more than I can chew. Ive got all new bushings for them just hope theres not more involved. Was gonna get new ujoints for the half shafts while in there. Thought about cleaning up and powder coating the half shafts while in there. After having to have someone install the new ujoints(since I dont have the tools), it was better off to just buy new heavy duty 3” ones with spicer joints. Takes a few steps outta the rebuild process I suppose. Nonetheless, we’re gettin there...Ill probably go ahead and sandblast the TA’s and paint them while out...why not lol. Thanks to all for all the help that has been provided and Merry Christmas to all!
Last edited by austinseanchris; Dec 24, 2019 at 07:57 PM.
while your down there , you might want to clean out that "pocket " it gets full of road grime and can start the rust process . Get a small screwdriver (or something) and start digging out the crap ,where the green arrow is the "drain hole"
while your down there , you might want to clean out that "pocket " it gets full of road grime and can start the rust process . Get a small screwdriver (or something) and start digging out the crap ,where the green arrow is the "drain hole"
Your initial concern was having a TA lower than the other. Could it be that the real reason is that the u-joints/shafts are attached 90 degrees apart?
Try rotating them 90 degrees to see if the passenger side lowers......
Why are the Caliper's, rotors and half shafts still on the car? Remove those parts and I am sure will find your problem.
Why are the Caliper's, rotors and half shafts still on the car? Remove those parts and I am sure will find your problem.
Because with the holidays and all that(not to mention having to work everyday), I havent turned a wrench since...Christmas is hectic around here...Ill be getting around to it starting next week when my Christmas break comes...
Alright Sir I understand lots of work and short on time. I wish I could help you with your project. I enjoy this kind of work because when you are finished you know you have accomplished something and will be proud of your work.
Be sure to check the snubber while you're down there.
