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My 79 L82 has a Qjet mnfd by Carter carbeurator for gmc. I though Rochester made the carbs. When looking for a replacement I am really getting confused as many say for my car but then it says not compatible.
As I look for a replacement I see what appears to be similar but it says that it does not fit. What exactly do I need? I have a nos manifold I just bought and I figure any 4bbl with vac secondaries would work. Is this incorrect? Thanks. Looking at Edelbrock 4105
Carter produced the Rochester casting at times. If Rocester was behind schedule, Carter helped out. Not technically a "Carter" carb. Still a Rochester.
I don’t refute the information (9216) are the #. All the other info on car says L82. No resto or show car. An old car to tinker with. Should not make much difference
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
A 17059216 manufactured by Carter is the exact same carb as a 17059216 carb manufactured by Rochester. They are the same carb, and both are correct and original factory-installed carbs for a '79 350 Vette with AC and AT. That carb will outperform anything else you can put on your car once it's correctly set up - don't ever get rid of it. It's a 750 cfm carb, and it's not a "vacuum secondary" carb. Have it correctly rebuilt and set up - your best option. That carb is an unmolested original carb in great condition - a perfect candidate for an excellent rebuild.
Originally Posted by Steve Kistler
I intend to get it remanufactured
Whatever you do, do not send it out to a "carb remanufacturer." The carb will be destroyed. E-mail me for my "Commercially Rebuilt Q-Jet Problems" paper to get an idea of what will happen to your carb if it is "remanufactured."
Originally Posted by Steve Kistler
The adjuster screws and vacuum ports are non functioning.
This is usually caused by vacuum leaks not related to the carb itself. There is nothing in the carb that can cause its vacuum ports to not work. It's highly likely that you have issues and vacuum leaks not directly related to the carb.
I always smell gas and the adjuster screws and vacuum ports are non functioning. I intend to get it remanufactured
Do yourself a favor if you need to have it rebuilt send it to Lars, poster above this one. You can contact him at v8fastcars@msn.com .
The smell can also be caused by your evaporative emissions canister among others things such as a leak.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by MelWff
The smell can also be caused by your evaporative emissions canister among others things such as a leak.
That's the most common cause of gasoline smells on these cars. A leaking EVAP system, or one that has been partially disconnected, will cause gasoline fumes. Also, old rubber fuel line sections (at the gas tank and at the fuel pump) will often have slight leaks, which will also cause gas smell. The carb itself will not cause gas smell unless it is visibly leaking. Check out your complete fuel supply line system and the EVAP system to correctly locate the source of the fuel vapor problem. You noted earlier that the idle mixture screws were non-functional and that vacuum ports appear to be "non functioning." If the EVAP canister purge valve is defective or leaking, incorrectly hooked up, or if the hose to the canister is disconnected, it will cause all the problems you are describing.
With less than 25 miles on my engine rebuild I am just trying to figure out what I need. I think it runs pretty good after it warms up but I can’t get more than 13-14 “vacuum. Earlier someone said there was only one large port on the front but I have one on the base and hooked to PCv and one higher same size that I plugged. The two lower ports on the front are left ported and right manifold from front of car. Not sure yet what gos to what
I have no AIR pump and all canister lines are unhooked.or missing. As stated earlier just working through stuff as I can. Oklahoma doesn’t require inspection which is good because it will just b something to drive to town once a week maybe. I want to do it correctly but as a man of limited resources.......
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by Steve Kistler
With less than 25 miles on my engine rebuild I am just trying to figure out what I need. I think it runs pretty good after it warms up but I can’t get more than 13-14 “vacuum. Earlier someone said there was only one large port on the front but I have one on the base and hooked to PCv and one higher same size that I plugged. The two lower ports on the front are left ported and right manifold from front of car. Not sure yet what gos to what
There are 2 large ports on the Q-Jet: There is one threaded port in the rear of the throttle plate, and it takes a fitting for interface with the power brake booster line. There is one large (3/8") nipple in the front of the throttle plate, and that goes to the PCV. Near the PCV is a 1/4" nipple which goes to the EVAP system. The nipple coming out of the throttle plate on the passenger side at a 45-degree angle is ported vacuum for EGR. If you have a large, 3/8" nipple in the top, forward, center of the airhorn ("top of the carb"), that's a bowl vent (not vacuum) that also goes to the EVAP system. All other ports and nipples are manifold vacuum. The one on the forward, center, driver's side of the carb is for distributor vacuum advance, but you can also use the nipple coming out of the rear of the carb throttle plate on the passenger side of the power brake fitting.
Originally Posted by Steve Kistler
All canister lines are unhooked.or missing.
Most likely the source of your fuel smell. If the EVAP system lines have been disconnected, you're venting fuel tank vapors right out of the disconnected lines.
Thanks,lots of helpful information to digest. For now I have the EGR and PCv hooked up with the vac advance and carbheater tube. Still working on wiper and light vac systems. Everything else is capped off. Of course the brake booster as well
I found two small fuel leaks one between the base plate and the main body gasket and one between the main body gasket and the airhorn. Can you recommend a kit that a person of moderate skill could install. Thanks
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Steve -
It's not possible for there to be a fuel leak between the carb's baseplate (throttle plate) and the main body (float bowl). That's not a gas sealing gasket. In fact, none of the gaskets on a Q-Jet seal fuel. If there is gas leaking from any gasket, it is due to some other failure of the carb, such as a leaking needle/seat, sunk float, and incorrect float level adjustments.
There is no carb kit that is any easier to install than any other. All require complete disassembly of the carb, a good cleanup, and a precise inspection to identify and correct all issues/problems. A correct and precise assembly and setup is always required, and any modifications and alterations done by previous builders need to be identified and corrected.
Carb identification
