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Decided to do a Lars recurve on a '75 coupe L-48. After removing the distributor cap I knew the distributor was not acting correctly based on videos I have seen online. Thanks to all who have the ***** to try and fix their cars and those who are experts who share their knowledge through posts/pictures/videos. I was half-way confident to take out the distributor and attempt to correct things. I don't have it all reinstalled correctly yet but can't wait to finish it up tomorrow and take her out for a drive and see the difference. So I encourage you to post, anything, as minuscule as it may seem, someone out there hasn't done it or doesn't know about it and will benefit from your experience!
before
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
After watching the first video you are going to have a totally new experience with your motor. That advance was in bad shape. You did a really good job cleaning it up and getting it to operate so smoothly again.If you have a friend that can ride a long and video your expression on your face after you hit the throttle, it'll be a good one!!
And another check to do is pull up slightly on the rotor after the rotor is screwed on. The bushing on the shaft of mine has a C clip that holds the shaft in. It broke and mine would walk up and eat through the top of the cap....
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Feb 23, 2020 at 08:05 AM.
Nice job, thanks for posting this! This one job should dramatically improve your car.
When I did the Lars-style recurve on my 79, I found that one light and one medium spring gave me the all-in advance at 2800-ish RPM. Good luck, and let us know how it turns out!
When I first bought my '73, I had distributor issues. The previous owner had installed an HEI distributor that was a junkyard find. I couldn't get full mechanical advance out of the distributor. I had never taken one apart before but decided I would give it a shot to see if I could find what was wrong. I pulled the distributor and as I began disassembly, it became obvious the distributor needed major cleaning. It was gunked up to the point that there was no way it could operate properly. After taking it apart, cleaning it thoroughly and setting it up per Lars, I put it back in and it worked perfectly.
Definitely drove better, throttle response was quicker along with 2500-4000 rpm pulling much harder! I didn’t notice much difference at 2500 and below, don’t know if I should have expected any change there. I got to 36 degrees advance with the vac disconnected, had a few stumbles but I think that is the carb, no surging or pinging anywhere. Think I will redo timing just to make sure it’s right on and then plan to send the carb to Lars for some professional help.
Definitely drove better, throttle response was quicker along with 2500-4000 rpm pulling much harder! I didn’t notice much difference at 2500 and below, don’t know if I should have expected any change there. I got to 36 degrees advance with the vac disconnected, had a few stumbles but I think that is the carb, no surging or pinging anywhere. Think I will redo timing just to make sure it’s right on and then plan to send the carb to Lars for some professional help.
Kudos to you for taking the initiative and repairing your distributor......wasn't that tough, was it?
Is the Vac advance working? And how much is it pulling?
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; Feb 23, 2020 at 06:22 PM.
no working on the distributor was not difficult just trying to figure out what to do and make sure I was doing it correctly was the time consuming part. Yes the vacuum advance does work I did not write it down but I believe with the vac advance connected it was pulling like 22 at idle and 54-56 total at 3000 rpm.
no working on the distributor was not difficult just trying to figure out what to do and make sure I was doing it correctly was the time consuming part. Yes the vacuum advance does work I did not write it down but I believe with the vac advance connected it was pulling like 22 at idle and 54-56 total at 3000 rpm.
Plug and unplug it at idle and record the difference.......add that to your 36 total and that will be what the can will be pulling when you are cruising down the highway at 3000 rpm.....light load. Looking for a number around 48-50. Record your initial unplugged for reference.
Nice job, thanks for posting this! This one job should dramatically improve your car.
When I did the Lars-style recurve on my 79, I found that one light and one medium spring gave me the all-in advance at 2800-ish RPM. Good luck, and let us know how it turns out!
Hi, could you forward the info as I'd like to do the same to my 79' (L48; all stock). It sounds like it's as easy as just installing the right two springs and the new bushing and setting to 38 at 3k RPM or so. Is this about right?
Hi, could you forward the info as I'd like to do the same to my 79' (L48; all stock). It sounds like it's as easy as just installing the right two springs and the new bushing and setting to 38 at 3k RPM or so. Is this about right?
Thanks in advance
In my case, it was a bit more involved than just that. I ended up starting with a new distributor (ZZ4 takeoff, GM 93440806, though it may be the same as GM 1104067), Moroso shims to reduce endplay, the spring kit, an an adjustable vacuum advance can. @lars's instructions should include the proper Delco vacuum advance to add. I think I ended up at 36 degrees at 2800 RPM. It helps greatly to have a digitial timing light with dialback and an RPM display.
Since @lars's instructions are his IP, and are updated often, you should really get them from him. I'll PM you his email, though it's all over the Forum. Be sure to ask for his timing papers, HEI setup, and Quadrajet papers if you still have your original carb.