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Testing "Capt. Shark's" Carb Problems

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Old Apr 22, 2020 | 09:39 PM
  #21  
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Not going thru first thread again ... But have you put a vacuum gage on it ? If so, is VG needle steady ?
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Old Apr 22, 2020 | 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Capt. Shark
Car ran perfect before.
Dennis -
Are you talking that the car ran "perfect before they installed the new cam," or what is "before?" (Before I rebuilt the carb, before Covid-19; before Dorothy left Kansas....?)

Have you tried "cupping" you hand over the choke tower to artificially induce a rich condition to see if this will make it smooth out or idle below 1000 rpm? If the cam they installed is pulling extremely poor manifold vacuum, it will cause the carb to lean out at idle due to poor manifold vacuum fuel signal to the idle circuit. But a cam has to be pretty damned radical to be pulling less than 10 inches of vacuum at 1000 rpm idle - that's down in L88 territory... In my own street car, I'm running a solid roller that's pretty rough (280/286 advertised, compared to your 270 advertised), and I'm pulling 12 inches at 950 rpm idle here at 5500 feet elevation. Something is just plain wrong with the engine assembly... a 270 cam does not idle at 10 inches at 1000 rpm, no matter what carb is on it.
Lars

Last edited by lars; Apr 22, 2020 at 10:22 PM.
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Old Apr 23, 2020 | 08:15 AM
  #23  
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Lars,
The car ran perfect when I left it at the shop for the cam and heads install. I did try the cupping hand before and it just choked the engine. I will try that again today.
As you say, there is something just plain wrong with the engine assembly. I wonder if I will ever get any satisfaction from the shop? So far I have not talked to them, but this morning I will.
Before I do though, I will talk to Lunati's tech people for some more ammo.

Good grief.
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Old Apr 23, 2020 | 09:15 AM
  #24  
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Back to an engine problem. Maybe even a wiped cam, lifters, rockers, mouse trapped in cylinder, who knows.

BUT the shop will give you the "it was good when it left here" spin. And by your own admission, it was BEFORE they worked on it. But how was it when you got it back from them?

Whatever the outcome, you will be spending more money, just don't spend it there!
Reading threads on this forum is like listening to the 6 o'clock evening news. Nothing good there.

Last edited by KenSny; Apr 23, 2020 at 09:17 AM.
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Old Apr 23, 2020 | 09:37 AM
  #25  
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It ran like crap when I picked it up from then. The timing was jacked up, they had the carb all out of whack. They gave me the carb bs and I honestly thought I could get it home and straighten it out.
They had it forever and I guess I was just ready to be done with them. My mistake. And you are correct about it costing me even more money. Just not sure now where to take it to get it straightened out.
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Old Apr 23, 2020 | 10:11 AM
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Put a question out on the forum to members in your area. Get some recommendations from them.
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Old Apr 27, 2020 | 05:25 PM
  #27  
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I may, emphasize may, have this thing figured out. I hit each header tube with my infrared temp gun and #5 cylinder was much lower temp on initial start up. Long story but I think it's a bad plug wire. #5 plug was also fouled. Very weak spark and the engine runs the same whether the wire is connected to the plug or not. Seven out of eight ain't so good, is it? Does it sound like this may be my problem?

Lordy, I sure hope I've got this figured out.
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Old Apr 27, 2020 | 11:17 PM
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From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
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"90% of all carb problems are ignition problems."
My opening statement from my "Tuning for Beer World Tour" tuning seminars (23 tours & seminars conducted across the U.S. and Europe over 5 years).

Lars
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Old Apr 29, 2022 | 03:27 PM
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I just went through a situation like this with my 62. 327/340 AFB 3269S. It was carburetor percolation due to the carb getting too hot. I had block my exhaust heat riser ports with fuel injection intake gaskets. Then I added a 1/2” phenolic spacer under the carb. These two cooled down the carb considerably. The other thing I did was I added a small electric pump on the suction side of my mechanical pump for vapor lock. I am at 5300 feet here in Colorado and vapor lock is an issue. I also should add that my car has a new fuel tank, sender, fuel suction lines, fuel pump and rebuilt carb. The hot die off has been an issue with this thing since I got it in 2021. Now the problem is gone.
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Old Apr 29, 2022 | 03:28 PM
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Old Apr 29, 2022 | 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by lars
You're responding to a 2 year old thread, and you're on the C3 Forum. No C3s came with AFB carbs - you have a C1 with an AFB, with its own unique problems that are not applicable to a C3.
please disregard. Somehow this post did not make it to the correct thread. I did not intentionally send this post to this thread. Go figure??
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