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I've got a 68 427/400. Carbs were rebuilt 6-7 years ago and have been running ok but car has not been run for 2-3 years. This spring I fired it up and I'm getting fuel being delivered in the front carb at idle. I've disconnected the linkage to be sure it wasn't out of adjustment. The float level is under the sight hole. And I've tapped on the carb to see if that would help but it didn't. Any help please.
Jim
Reread you second sentence, are you saying your NOT getting fuel delivered to the front carburetor at idle?
If so how did you determine that, since you do see gasoline in the bowl?
Sorry,
At idle looking into the front carb gas is trickling in and causing rough idle. I cofirmed that all tension is off the linkage so carb is completely closed but still drips gas into throat of carb. Fuel line is attached and is getting fuel.
Thank you Mel
Last edited by Jims427400; May 4, 2020 at 12:52 PM.
Looking into the carburetor throat you will see small holes that act as air bleeds and if the car sat for multiple years can become clogged.
Using a can of carburetor spray cleaner with the plastic extension, wear safety glasses, and spray into the holes to try to unclog them.
Sorry,
At idle looking into the front carb gas is trickling in and causing rough idle. I cofirmed that all tension is off the linkage so carb is completely closed but still drips gas into throat of carb. Fuel line is attached and is getting fuel.
Thank you Mel
Pull the bowl and replace the metering plate gasket. When these dry up, they will allow fuel to dribble through the boosters. You can fix this for about $10
Thank you all.. I'll have to find a DIY article on that one Jebby. It doesn't sound that hard. But I will try the carb cleaner first. Do I order those parts through Holly?
So I'm finding complete rebuild kits for 2300, but not individual seals. Does Napa or Auto Zone carry these? Looks like I need metering plate and bowl gaskets and 4 screw seals. Does that sound right? And probably new seals for the fuel line.
So I'm finding complete rebuild kits for 2300, but not individual seals. Does Napa or Auto Zone carry these? Looks like I need metering plate and bowl gaskets and 4 screw seals. Does that sound right? And probably new seals for the fuel line.
Thanks
Jim
Call these guys in Long Island......I buy from them a lot......they will put together what you need. https://allcarbs.com/
They use only original equipment Holley gaskets in bulk.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
If the car hasn't been run for 3 years, every seal and gasket in all 3 carbs is a shriveled-up POS. All 3 carbs should be disassembled and given a complete rebuilt and setup.
If the car hasn't been run for 3 years, every seal and gasket in all 3 carbs is a shriveled-up POS. All 3 carbs should be disassembled and given a complete rebuilt and setup.
There are no "seals" in the fuel line.
Lars
Or yes, you can use the Lars "scorched earth" method
Seriously though.....he is right.....
My own 427/400 years ago had the back carb doing the same thing......so I just replaced the gaskets in that carb. It was fine but I had a full cosmetic detail planned so I waited to do all of them.......three months later I sold the car so never got around to it. But if you plan on keeping it a long time......then yes, use the Lars "scorched earth" method
I will warn you.....pay attention as the factory fuel lines are a puzzle if only removing one carb......remember the sequence
That's good information Lars and Jebby. I'll give allcarbs a call.
2 questions:
-I've never rebuilt a carb. Is it easy enough following the manual that they give me with the kit?
-What is Lars "scorched earth method"?
Jim
Just checked their website.. Chevy tripower kit $79.00 (I assume it'll come with directions?)
Last edited by Jims427400; May 5, 2020 at 08:41 AM.
Just checked their website.. Chevy tripower kit $79.00 (I assume it'll come with directions?)
LOL....the scorched earth method is a military or political term that means to take care of the situation no matter what the cost.....”scorch the Earth” so to say.....
Lars is in the mind set that if that one is leaking....just do them all now.
It will not come with instructions.....I suggest getting a good Holley book and reading it.
The end carbs are super simple.....the middle one has all of the parts in it......
Time, patience, and a chem dip bucket are all you need....
Lars can setup your Tri-Power for you.....he has a plate to bolt the end carbs to check for leaks but not operation.....although he knows what to look for so when you get them back they should work perfect.
Shoot him an E-Mail.
V8fastcars@msn dot com
I did some googling and found a 2019 thread where Lars made that plate your referring to to rebuild a set of tripowers for a fellow vetter. Very interesting. And Lars if your listening I have a lot of respect for what you do for all of us. You've helped me before as well. I guess at this point I'm going to order a rebuild kit and take my time disassembling and hopefully get it back together ok. I'll start searching for a good holley book as you suggested.
I'm going to include this question on this post because I know you guys will have the answer. This is the intake and carb that came on my 68 427/400. I bought a tripower setup and had it rebuilt many years ago. After talking about rebuilding my tripowers I thought I'd practice on this setup. My question is what rebuild kit do I need for this and is this intake and carb worth anything and is it something that anyone would be interested in buying? The intake is a 3955287 from the 70s and off a 454/390hp. Who knows maybe I'd put it on the 68 and give it a whirl. What do you think?
Thanks guys,
Jim
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
The 6210-3 is a little Holley 650 cfm model 4165 spread bore aftermarket carb. It is set up as a "direct replacement" carb for a Q-Jet, and has the hookups for the Q-Jet divorced choke. It takes carb rebuild kit part number 37-605 ($48 from most sources).
Lars, I purchased a restored 1968 L-71 in Philadelphia recently. I asked the previous owner what jets or other tuning would be needed when I shipped it back to Denver. I noticed in your info, that you might be in Colorado. So i’m hoping you’re just the one to steer me on this. The previous owner spent $6k refurbishing the correct NCRS tri-carbs including the right plating. So as I suspected it doesn’t run that well up here, just to rich. Do you have a baseline for jetting, and any other recommendations? I’m also a pilot, so i’m used to having a mixture control lever, no such thing on cars… Thank you.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
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either the front float is stuck, has sunk or the needle vavle is stuck....you really should pull them apart and make sure there is no corrosion as well
Bowmen carburetor is close by in Bristol . They are the best in our area.they just fixed my problem
that has been going on for years. Message me if you need more information.
68 Tripower front carb question
