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marital aids. you can also use it to align the clutch disk.
I tried that once for bleeding my brakes. I found that for keeping the peace, a power bleeder was a better solution.
Sooo, we are in a pickle again. One of my favorite lines working on a car is: nothing is ever easy.
In goes the thing that looks like a thingy.
Installing the pressure plate was no problem.
Studs to guide the throwout bearing.
And here is our pickle. The distance from throwout bearing to trans is larger than the distance from pressure plate spring fingers to the bell. What that means is that there is an overlap of 0.200.
I can’t shim the throwout bearing closer. On full release the bearing will already be, not only touching, but depressing the pressure plate spring fingers. Furthermore, I need at least 0.100 air gap. I could add washers between the block and the bell, but only to a maximum of 0.200... I would still be 0.100 short.
On Monday I’ll have to call American Powertrain. They do sell low profile hydraulic release bearings as a last resort... I think we are at that point.
Mmmm. The only thing that I can think of that might resolve this without having to purchase a low profile hydraulic release bearing, is that the clutch disc has been replaced. Maybe, as the release he never been actuated, the spring fingers need to settle.
You can NOT shim the bellhousing from the block. I thought you were using the mechanical clutch that was already paid for.
Hm. I was definitely uncomfortable with the shimming between the block and the bell. The instructions in the kit say you can use washers up to a maximum of 0.200 American Powertrain has a CNC spacer of 0.250. I like that even less as I’d be worried about the pilot bearing.
They said the last resort is their low profile hydraulic release bearing. Hmmm.
It was a last minute decision; a luxury of sorts. This car will be my last build and needs to be comfortable for my wife and me to drive for a very long time. For the moment I really have to wrench the clutch pedal to activate it. My wife... well, she scares me.
Other reasons: I cannot feel the dis/engagement very well, the L31 block is not drilled for the Z-bar, and I want to simplify things.
Hmm. Pressing on... although I’m not sure the American Powertrain kit will even work.
I thought it would be possible to install the master cylinder without removing the booster. What was I thinking
AP solution to effecting the correct actuation angle.
Mounted on firewall. So far I have to out of three bolts in.
I guess there’s no returning the kit now. I trimmed the back plate to clear the steering column base, but it turn out that plate + firewall are too thick for the bolts. I’ll keep it any way... for the day I come by longer bolts. That being said, the firewall is lined with steel and is quite sturdy.
The kit starts getting confusing when the instructions cover over stroking and pedal home.
Tell American powertrain to send you the correct thickness of throwout bearing and you will return to them the one that is Too Tall that they sent you. I'm pretty sure they knew what trains you were putting it on and what Clutch it was supposed to go up against. They should have gotten it right. It's not up to you to spend extra money or worse yet butcher the car because they did not.
Last edited by derekderek; Jun 6, 2020 at 06:23 PM.
Tell American powertrain to send you the correct thickness of throwout bearing and you will return to them the one that is Too Tall that they sent you. I'm pretty sure they knew what trains you were putting it on and what Clutch it was supposed to go up against. They should have gotten it right. It's not up to you to spend extra money or worse yet butcher the car because they did not.
Dunno 'bout your APT, but I've used other brand HRBs in real race cars w/ clutchpaks ... tilton, ram, q'master ... those HRB employ either shims/spacers or threaded sleeves to adjust height
If your APT HRB uses spacers, are any remaining in your setup that might cause HRB to be too tall ?
So show us a pic of the backside of that release bearing. It attaches to the input shaft cover. And you need about .3 inch. Where does the throwout bearing sit?
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top pick is most likely, I think and it's also an area that you could probably get away with Machining 300 thousandths of an inch off of. There's also lots of them around for less than a hundred bucks if you destroy one trying. Just make sure it's the correct one. Different shoulders different throwout bearing sleeve diameters different bellhousing ring diameters
I tried that once for bleeding my brakes. I found that for keeping the peace, a power bleeder was a better solution.
at the crappy job they did explaining the over stroke stop and pedal adjustment. 
That third paragraph is dismally written. 
This is helpful!
