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I'm pretty sure they use the same bellhousing and same hydraulic release slave cylinder on the 83 to 92 Camaros and Firebirds with the T5. So when they change over from one type of rear main to the other they're going to make a point of not having to retool everything by moving their crank flange and clutch face into a different location.
I'm pretty sure they use the same bellhousing and same hydraulic release slave cylinder on the 83 to 92 Camaros and Firebirds with the T5. So when they change over from one type of rear main to the other they're going to make a point of not having to retool everything by moving their crank flange and clutch face into a different location.
Perhaps ... don't those use a conventional TOB along w/ a Fork & External Hydro Slave ?
Perhaps ... don't those use a conventional TOB along w/ a Fork & External Hydro Slave ?
yes, but with no change from 85-6-7. Whichever year was the 2 piece to 1 piece changeover. So they had to change flywheels and starter Wheels. If they change the location of the flywheel face they would have to make new bellhousings, torque converters, input shafts, front pump shafts, lots of stuff.
Last edited by derekderek; Jun 7, 2020 at 02:07 PM.
I got off the phone with APT tech support. They tell me that this hydraulic release bearing is already their low profile one and that I have several options: a low profile flywheel (theirs is 0.840 & $44) and a low profile pressure plate which will should net me all the clearance I need at $140.
I have to go back and measure my flywheel, but I’m thinking I just want this over with. I’d rather just get their pressure plate and be done with it.
Did you ask them about the input shaft bearing retainer? Cuz it shows a custom one that is machined flat that they are selling with that kit that I posted a link to. And that is close to a half inch.
They say they're low profile flywheel is $44? What about the low profile one piece seal flywheel that you would be changing to in the very near future?
They say they're low profile flywheel is $44? What about the low profile one piece seal flywheel that you would be changing to in the very near future?
Well, we came to a solution. My flywheel is 1.000 from the crank flange to the flywheel face.
A low profile flywheel would still not be enough clearance to allow for the minimum air gap of 0.100; preferably 0.150.
The solution is a low profile pressure plate that would have a flat diaphragm spring. That will give me 3/8 of an inch or 0.375, pretty much what I need to make this work.
The L46 horsepower levels I’m after down the road (with one piece seal L31 motor) are still compatible with this plate. This would also work with a low profile one piece seal flywheel that I would be changing to in the very near future @derekderek
Dunno 'bout your APT, but I've used other brand HRBs in real race cars w/ clutchpaks ... tilton, ram, q'master ... those HRB employ either shims/spacers or threaded sleeves to adjust height
If your APT HRB uses spacers, are any remaining in your setup that might cause HRB to be too tall ?
I checked... no spacers left.
Originally Posted by derekderek
top pick is most likely, I think and it's also an area that you could probably get away with Machining 300 thousandths of an inch off of. There's also lots of them around for less than a hundred bucks if you destroy one trying. Just make sure it's the correct one. Different shoulders different throwout bearing sleeve diameters different bellhousing ring diameters
I also checked under the spare input shaft cover that I have and it looks very risky to machine off the more than 0.300 required. There are a couple of shoulders in there that would be very thin of even pierce through. I could probably take off up to 0.150 safely. Good to have that wiggle room.
I have to reuse mine with a guide stud replacing one of the bolts.
Originally Posted by jackson
OP DC3
? Are you doing the HRB setup in-car ? ... or on floor/bench ? ... hope it's the later.
? Are you setting this WCT5 HRB to work with your L46 motor & flywheel ?
If so, all that setup may very well require do-over w/ L31 & its different flywheel ? ... maybe; maybe not.
I will have to do it over when the time comes, but with the spare pressure plate and shims, I should be fine. Retracting the piston and bleeding should be a simple matter.
That still wouldn't be enough... I need an air gap between 0.100 and 0.200 so around 0.150. I would also be looking at a pilot bearing extension. I'd rather avoid replacing that one at this time
From what I can tell, taking all parameters into account, the pressure plate seems to be the best solution.
you might want to consider getting a low profile 1-piece flywheel so you have the option of a standard clutch setup for the long term with new engine. When you measured the height from pressure plate fingers to bellhousing face I assume you had the pressure plate bolted to the clutch disc and the flywheel? And so the fingers were compressed towards the flywheel face.
Last edited by derekderek; Jun 9, 2020 at 06:52 AM.
you might want to consider getting a low profile 1-piece flywheel so you have the option of a standard clutch setup for the long term with new engine.
At this point I will have two pressure plates... I am hoping one will work with the future flywheel
When you measured the height from pressure plate fingers to bellhousing face I assume you had the pressure plate bolted to the clutch disc and the flywheel? And so the fingers were compressed towards the flywheel face.
You are kind of stuck with an oddball pressure plate because of the throwout bearing height. So this is a standard throw out bearing you will be able to get from them if it needs to be replaced. But if the low profile pressure plate is less powerful than you want, you will be in a position of having no options. And you have to buy a one piece flywheel anyway. So if there is a low profile option flywheel for the one piece set up, it would make sense to go that way so you could buy any old clutch and put it in there. Instead of having to get a special pressure plate that you're not even sure is going to be available in 12 years when you need another clutch.
I'm running a Howe Racing internal slave with my T5. Definitely didn't have any of the clearance issues with it. I think I ended up using just one of the supplied shims. I used the T5 bell, a standard gen 1 sbc 153 tooth flywheel, and an OEM replacement pressure plate and 26 spline clutch disk. I've got about 500 miles on the Howe Racing slave and it has been absolutely awesome so far. The price is right. Quite a bit lower than SST, Mcleod, Titlon, and Ram options. Might be considered a "lower end" unit, but we'll see how it holds up.
Last edited by trevorhowe1212; Jun 9, 2020 at 03:25 PM.
I'm running a Howe Racing internal slave with my T5. Definitely didn't have any of the clearance issues with it. I think I ended up using just one of the supplied shims. I used the T5 bell, a standard gen 1 sbc 153 tooth flywheel, and an OEM replacement pressure plate and 26 spline clutch disk. I've got about 500 miles on the Howe Racing slave and it has been absolutely awesome so far. The price is right. Quite a bit lower than SST, Mcleod, Titlon, and Ram options. Might be considered a "lower end" unit, but we'll see how it holds up.
Seems you used T5 BH while OP DC3 is attempting to use his L46 BH ... perhaps L46 BH is shorter and perhaps, therein lies OP's difficulty.
