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So, two hoses. It has a return? Cuz bleeding that puppy would be fun...
And I had to use it !
The instructions say you need to depress the pedal once (or pump ?) for ten minutes and it will self bleed. Well that was for the birds. I was stomping away on it and I felt I was getting nowhere.
The instructions then offered as alternative opening the bleed and letting it drain till you get a steady flow.
That didn’t work either.
I resorted to bleeding like I would a brake... and that worked perfectly fine.
Now the pedal is hard, very hard ! The instructions say that if your pedal is hard, you may have a geometry issue. You need to make sure that your fulcrum to pedal/pivot are between 1:4 and 1:6. I think I’m at 1:6. It’s tough to measure in car.
I think this is a draw back of the low profile pressure plate, the levers are much shorter.
Installed in the car. Finally, the T5 is suspended in the car; not floor jacks or jack stands. That’s a big step for me. I installed a bit low so I can shim it up or down.
I can see light at the end of the tunnel. The piece of the puzzle missing for the moment is the driveshaft. I should get that this week.
All that remains for a test drive:
Add 2 quarts of ATF With the exhaust hanging out of the way it’s actually quite easy
Hang the exhaust - this might be the most tedious
Reconnect parking brake
Speedo cable
Reverse light connection
There’s probably a few more things... but I can’t think of them.
The instructions say you need to depress the pedal once (or pump ?) for ten minutes and it will self bleed. Well that was for the birds. I was stomping away on it and I felt I was getting nowhere.
The instructions then offered as alternative opening the bleed and letting it drain till you get a steady flow.
That didn’t work either.
I resorted to bleeding like I would a brake... and that worked perfectly fine.
Now the pedal is hard, very hard ! The instructions say that if your pedal is hard, you may have a geometry issue. You need to make sure that your fulcrum to pedal/pivot are between 1:4 and 1:6. I think I’m at 1:6. It’s tough to measure in car.
I think this is a draw back of the low profile pressure plate, the levers are much shorter.
Then came part two of welding the trans mount.
Neighbor to the rescue again.
Nice job !
I'm loving that rear mount! Looking good, you're so close now. Nice work.
I took it for a very short drive (5 minutes maybe) and all the gears seem to work. I had it up to 60 mph and popped shifted into 5th and: our Lady of Blessed Speed... THANK YOU !!
Having an overdrive is phenomenal ! Muuuuuch more comfortable. You would not believe the elation
The best news is that the vibration seems to be gone !!! More testing needs to follow, but I’m quite sure it’s gone.
The repair I did to the vacuum storage tank is great. The vacuum operated accessories work much better now.
Now for the bad news... I cannot seem to get it into reverse (it grinds) unless I shut the engine off and put it in reverse with the clutch in.
The other issue I have is that sometimes it shifts butter smooth. Sometimes not so much. Other times it refuses to shift in any gear unless I **** the engine off and fiddle with it.
Hmm.
I suppose refusing to reverse could be some air left in the hydraulic clutch.
As for the reason it sometimes shift beautifully and other times not so much or not at all... I’ll have to think about that. Maybe it doesn’t like the Dexron III ?
Oh... and I very quickly got used to the heavy clutch. I’ll improve that later on but the clutch feel is definitely better.
when you are in neutral, can you hit the clutch and go into 1st? have you tried stopping the trans with a forward gear-use 4th it gets the least synchro wear- and then quickly shift into R? cuz the grinding is usually not fully disengaging. and adjusting a hyd clutch is like adjusting disc brakes. nothing to adjust. you would need a bigger dia master to make more pedal effort and reduce travel. unless the slave is running out of total travel and needs shimmed up higher. if so, thank God for removable crossmembers.
Last edited by derekderek; Jul 1, 2020 at 04:14 PM.
If, repeat, IF it were My manual WCT5 and it shifts a little wonky, I'd be inclined to squeeze 2 oz of this Lubegard Friction Modifier in it to make that DIII more slippery.
Fact; Dexron VI is even more slippery than DIII and it's backwards compatible w/ both DIII (G) & DIII (H).
Been using Lubegard FM in automatics for years; well proven. Dunno, maybe available at local BE ap stores? YMMV
OK, FYI. the synchros in the T5 WC are not bronze like everything older. they have a layer of clutch surface on them. like found on discs in auto trans clutch packs. that is why they want ATF.
Took the Plastic Nightmare our for another spin today. It performed better. (Except for losing a hubcap ) Part of it might be muscle memory. I am still trying to shift it like a Muncie; very square.
Reverse grinds. I’ve since learned that there is no reverse synchro. Thanks to that, I’ve also discovered that the HRC is not fully disengaging.
So, some clutch adjustment work and check fluid level.
muncie had no synchros in reverse either. none do AFAIK. i don't think there is much adjustment. a hyd system is self adjusting. the master. is there an adjustable rod between your foot and the master cyl? is so, you may want to adjust it the OTHER way. shorten the rod. adjust it like you are trying to get more free play at the top of the clutch travel. if it is partially depressing the master before you step on the clutch, you are losing travel. adjust the rod shorter and the piston in the master may back out farther, giving you more travel letting it move more fluid and possibly releasing better. if piston is already back against the retainer that holds it in, this won't help and you may want to adjust the rod longer because you could be runnning out of pedal before you run out of master cyl travel. vibration. don't sell your old driveshaft unless you don't like the person who wants to buy it...
muncie had no synchros in reverse either. none do AFAIK. i don't think there is much adjustment. a hyd system is self adjusting. the master. is there an adjustable rod between your foot and the master cyl? is so, you may want to adjust it the OTHER way. shorten the rod. adjust it like you are trying to get more free play at the top of the clutch travel. if it is partially depressing the master before you step on the clutch, you are losing travel. adjust the rod shorter and the piston in the master may back out farther, giving you more travel letting it move more fluid and possibly releasing better. if piston is already back against the retainer that holds it in, this won't help and you may want to adjust the rod longer because you could be runnning out of pedal before you run out of master cyl travel. vibration. don't sell your old driveshaft unless you don't like the person who wants to buy it...
By adjusting I meant bleed again. Maybe there is still a little bit of air in there preventing full disengagement ? I need to disconnect the line anyway to tighten up a weeping leak on the master cylinder fitting to the slave.
There is also a stop on the pedal's clutch rod. It's purpose is to prevent over stroking. I erred possibly on the conservative side. If bleeding does not work, I will move the stop back 1/16. I might not be using all of the master cylinder.
My old driveshaft is shorter now and in the car. I am pretty convinced that the vibration cam from a deformed tailhousing on the Muncie. When I grabbed and shook the driveshaft up and down this time around, there was no play... unlike the Muncie.
can you see the stop while clutch pedal moving? maybe set phone on video and watch pedal and rod travel? and are you sure the master comes all the way out to the other stop?
can you see the stop while clutch pedal moving? maybe set phone on video and watch pedal and rod travel? and are you sure the master comes all the way out to the other stop?
Good idea. I’ll try some video
I am sure the pedal goes all the way up and doesn’t even reach the stop.
Going the other direction, it might be stopped prematurely by that overstroke stop.
With the exhaust hanging out of the way it’s actually quite easy 
Looking good, you're so close now. Nice work.
) Part of it might be muscle memory. I am still trying to shift it like a Muncie; very square.