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pedal comes all the way up so the clutch master is topped out? you are sure it isn't holding the piston down a bit? mebbe try to snap a pic down the clutch rod...
Not sure if someone else mentioned it, but there are not syncros on the reverse gear. A little friction force from the pilot bearing is enough start the mainshaft of the tranny rotating if its in neutral, even if the clutch is completely disengaged. Just shift into first gear before shifting back into neutral. This will stop the mainshaft from spinning then it will shift into reverse much easier. But definitely make sure your clutch is fully disengaging before you drive much more. You'll burn up that new clutch real quick! May not be a pedal stroke issue, I would check to make sure it is complete bled and free of air. I wasn't able to bleed my internal TO bearing slave with the bleeder hose. Had to use a hand vacuum pump through reservoir and it worked great.
Did you get the issue with the height of the Pro 5.0 shifter figured out?
Not sure if someone else mentioned it, but there are not syncros on the reverse gear. A little friction force from the pilot bearing is enough start the mainshaft of the tranny rotating if its in neutral, even if the clutch is completely disengaged. Just shift into first gear before shifting back into neutral. This will stop the mainshaft from spinning then it will shift into reverse much easier. But definitely make sure your clutch is fully disengaging before you drive much more. You'll burn up that new clutch real quick! May not be a pedal stroke issue, I would check to make sure it is complete bled and free of air. I wasn't able to bleed my internal TO bearing slave with the bleeder hose. Had to use a hand vacuum pump through reservoir and it worked great.
Did you get the issue with the height of the Pro 5.0 shifter figured out?
Pro 5.0 is remaining untouched for the moment. That will be the final piece once I’ve worked out all the other issues. I probably will cut it short and weld a bracket of some sort.
Yes. I also think there might still be air in the system. How did you vacuum bleed yours ?
I purchased a vacuum brake bleeding kit similar to the link below. Just a hand vacuum pump. I used the rubber tip that is a sharp cone and put it into the small hole in the bottom of the reservoir. Pumped until the bubbles stop coming out. Then quickly pull the line out the reservoir before the pump can suck up all of the fluid out of the reservoir since they are pretty small. Then pressed the clutched a 5 or 6 times. Repeated that process 4 or 5 times and it worked great. MUCH EASIER than having my unwilling significant other operate the clutch pedal while was under the car trying to bleed from the line. There's also a few youtube videos out there of guys using this type of hand vacuum pump to bleed clutches. Thats where I got the idea from after trying to bleed from the line on the slave failed.
So the aecond line is the bleeder? Not a return? And it hits up high on the slave cyl body? And you can reach the bleeder fitting without removing the trans? Is the master level, pointing upwards, or down? Cuz one issue is bleeding the master if the line to the slave is at the downhill end of the master. Can't get air pocket without removing master and bench-bleeding it.
So the aecond line is the bleeder? Not a return? And it hits up high on the slave cyl body? And you can reach the bleeder fitting without removing the trans? Is the master level, pointing upwards, or down? Cuz one issue is bleeding the master if the line to the slave is at the downhill end of the master. Can't get air pocket without removing master and bench-bleeding it.
Yes. The bleeder line is higher on the slave cylinder. The line ends a few inches outside of the bell, so you can bleed the slave while installed.
I bled the slave once more (man, that sounds very Classical Antiquity) and things slightly improved. The clutch disc seems to be slightly catching and spinning. Just by a whisker, I’m betting.
At this point, I’m going to move the master cylinder stop up a tick.
the master. is it level, tilted up or down? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s6cVYgzCU18 watch from about 1:30 to about 4 minutes. good demo of why you might have air trapped in the master.
Fascinating ! My master cylinder is pointed down. That is, the firewall side is higher.
I’m going to Ardèche for a couple of weeks starting the morrow. I’ll certainly do this when I return. Tilt up and actuate a few times.
Maybe find a steep enough hill or truck loading dock to get the nose high enough toget master level. Cuz then it will pump into the slave where you can bleed it out. Or maybe back-bleed into reservior.
but you had the bleeder line open and in a glass of break fluid ?
I tried every bleeding technique you can think of. Bleeder in a jar, open and close with a buddy, gravity bled for 2 days. Nothing worked. I think I 2 major issues. 1 was the master pointing down and 2 was the bleeder was not the highest point of the TO bearing with my T5 rotated.
But the hand vac pump didn't care! 2 minutes and all the air was out.
Yes. You can remove the console and leave the HVAC control head and its metal frame in place. Gotta do a little careful wiggling, but not difficult. You do know about the two nuts on the underside of the forward tunnel brace? Those connect to the two studs at the bottom of the gauge bezel. Remove those nuts or any force on the studs will break them. If I recall correctly, there are slots in that forward brace, rather than holes; so you can just slide the tunnel off the studs (I think). Suggest you use a mirror to check that situation out before disassembly.
You also need to remove the fiber optic cables from the plastic lens gizmos mounted to the trans. tunnel.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Jul 24, 2020 at 10:43 AM.
Yes. You can remove the console and leave the HVAC control head and its metal frame in place. Gotta do a little careful wiggling, but not difficult. You do know about the two nuts on the underside of the forward tunnel brace? Those connect to the two studs at the bottom of the gauge bezel. Remove those nuts or any force on the studs will break them. If I recall correctly, there are slots in that forward brace, rather than holes; so you can just slide the tunnel off the studs (I think). Suggest you use a mirror to check that situation out before disassembly.
You also need to remove the fiber optic cables from the plastic lens gizmos mounted to the trans. tunnel.
Thanks ! Super helpful !!
Oddly enough I’m a bit bummed out. I do hate removing the shifter console. Mmmm. Might take a break and leave that adventure for next weekend.
Originally I was trying to come up with some clever way to screw in the lower boot. After some thought, I decided to try riveting it in place. The base (metal) of the boot was quite compliant and easy to shape to fit the tunnel.
Some duct tape and some dumb-dumb to seal. I think it worked out well.
I HATE working on the shifter console. Brittle plastic. A jumble of wires and cables all threatening to dislodge each other. Strangely, the bit I was most worried about was quite straight forward. I was really worried it was going to be .
And there you have it. Now for a test drive
Last edited by DorianC3; Jul 26, 2020 at 12:06 PM.
you seem to be on to my plans 
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