PCV valve for 383 ??
http://www.teamlucor.com/stores/gene...%20catalog.pdf
Coincidently? Napa's parts numbers use this same four digit number. So I was able to find all of the PCV valve part numbers that were talked about on the forums and get them from NAPA. All in stock at the store. I think I bought four of them at $4 each. And tried them all until I found the one that worked best.
I don't have all the specs on the engine and cam as it was built by a specialty shop years ago that moved but its a 425 HP SBC, 11:1 CR, alum heads, big cam, air-gap, demon carb, long tubes, MSD.
My Buick GS engine is also heavily worked with a big cam (had to run a vacuum tank) but has scavenger tubes on the headers so don't have a lot of experience with PCV dialing in.
My other car was set up for the track and it has two scavenger tubes on the headers hooked up to the valve covers so blow by isn't an issue (but oil getting sucked through the rings might be
)A lot of cars had breathers in the old days and I assume a PCV was just a way to get rid of the gases in a more green manner
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Monstr, I don't want any contaminated air getting in my air/fuel mix. My engine block, bearings, camshaft, etc., etc., etc., will not erode, corrode, disintegrate, melt, seize, freeze or be subject to any other catastrophic failure by not running a pcv system. Well, at least non of the aforementioned failures has happened in the 20 years since I removed the pcv. Why? My car might see a 1000 miles a year and I change my oil once a year. Hardly enough mileage to worry about contaminated oil destroying my engine. Even if I put 6K on in a year, I wouldn't have a pcv unless I got oil floating out of my breathers misting the engine compartment. But that would indicate excessive blowby and time for a rebuild.
For the guys who promote running a pcv, fill your boots. But please don't spread myths of obnoxious toxic fumes, oil misting, engine disintegration, poor running, etc. Btw, my vapor canister (another source of dilution) is plugged too! My house hasn't burned down and not a whiff of gas inside my garage...........ever.........in 32 years.





Once the valve is open measuring the flow is quite a task but is knowing the flow really that necessary? What I'm saying is wouldn't be easier to just tune the carb using a A/F monitor at this point? There could be a problem with excessive flow but if the flow is low it should be able to be tuned out. My assumption is that it's unlikely the PCV valve flow would be to high to be turned out using carb jetting and an A/F monitor since the pressure deferential goes down as the throttle blades open - reducing flow.
Yea, most of us don't want to turn or cars into race only cars and we need a functional PCV system for even a weekend cruiser. If a adjustable PCV valve can get you there I don't see anything wrong with spending for a custom part. But I also think there are more than one way to correct the PCV system after performance modifications and really the sky is the limit here.
In the early 1950s, Professor Arie Jan Haagen-Smit established that pollution from automobile engines was a major cause of the smog crisis being experienced in Los Angeles, California.[4] The California Motor Vehicle Pollution Control Board (a precursor to the California Air Resources Board) was established in 1960 and began researching how to prevent blow-by gases from being released directly into the atmosphere.[5] The PCV system was designed to re-circulate the gases into the air intake so that they could be combined with the fresh air/fuel and more completely combusted. In 1961, California regulations required that all new cars be sold with a PCV system, therefore representing the first implementation of vehicle emissions control device.[6]
By 1964, most new cars sold in the U.S. were so equipped by voluntary industry action so as not to have to make multiple state-specific versions of vehicles. PCV quickly became standard equipment on all vehicles worldwide because of its benefits not only in emissions reduction but also in engine internal cleanliness and oil lifespan.[1][7]
In 1967, several years after its introduction into production, the PCV system became the subject of a U.S. federal grand jury investigation, when it was alleged by some industry critics that the Automobile Manufacturers Association (AMA) was conspiring to keep several such smog reduction devices on the shelf to delay additional smog control. After eighteen months of investigation, the grand jury returned a "no-bill" decision, clearing the AMA, but resulting in a consent decree that all U.S. automobile companies agreed not to work jointly on smog control activities for a period of ten years.[8]
In the decades since, legislation and regulation of vehicular emissions has tightened substantially. Most of today's petrol engines continue to use PCV systems.
Each can will be connected with -10 braided hose and mounted on the firewall.
The engine builder told me we could add a PCV later if I experience to much oil collected in the catch cans.
They said that with an engine where the oil is changed regularly there won’t be enough acids or corrosives contaminating the oil to worry about.
The secret is to change the oil on a regular basis.
I asked them about misting oil in the engine compartment and they said that proper placement of the fittings in the valve covers is a key component so oil from the valve train isn’t squirting up into the fittings.
They said that running a single filtered catch can, properly placed, fed by both valve covers will not allow any oil to mist in the engine compartment.
I’ve run numerous engines over the years in boats and cars using just valve cover breathers, no PCV’s and never had an issue.
I also don’t run my cars or boats hard all the time.
I get on them for sure to get that rush, but it’s short lived.





open headers with valve cover evacuation systems is kind of a race only idea unless you have big enough pipes to nearly eliminate back pressure.
Did you ever wonder why your PCV equipped car has dirty spark plugs that don't last very long and modern cars can go 100K between plug changes?
MY 25 year setup!

Last edited by gkull; Jun 12, 2020 at 01:16 PM.




Once the valve is open measuring the flow is quite a task but is knowing the flow really that necessary? What I'm saying is wouldn't be easier to just tune the carb using a A/F monitor at this point? There could be a problem with excessive flow but if the flow is low it should be able to be tuned out. My assumption is that it's unlikely the PCV valve flow would be to high to be turned out using carb jetting and an A/F monitor since the pressure deferential goes down as the throttle blades open - reducing flow.
Yea, most of us don't want to turn or cars into race only cars and we need a functional PCV system for even a weekend cruiser. If a adjustable PCV valve can get you there I don't see anything wrong with spending for a custom part. But I also think there are more than one way to correct the PCV system after performance modifications and really the sky is the limit here.
Regarding the second bolded sentence, it's my understanding that PCV valves are designed to allow a somewhat constant/metered flow rate via the shape of the internal passage and the spring/pintle setup. High vacuum tries to cause the pintle to close, but the spring/seat-shape keeps it slightly open, allowing a metered amount of air flow. At higher throttle settings or WOT, the spring opens the pintle further to reduce the orifice restriction, allowing good flow rate at the lower pressure differential.
I welcome correction if anyone has technical information to the contrary.




open headers with valve cover evacuation systems is kind of a race only idea unless you have big enough pipes to nearly eliminate back pressure.
Did you ever wonder why your PCV equipped car has dirty spark plugs that don't last very long and modern cars can go 100K between plug changes?
MY 25 year setup!

And, for a road course driven street car, I suspect my PCV system is lighter than a catch can and a couple valve cover breathers.












