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Yes the PCV calibration does matter. With that said, most guys (myself included) don't really pay a lot of attention. As long as it fits and works, its OK. I recently ran across this fully adjustable PCV valve:
Engines have been working just fine for many years with a stock PCV. $129 is just ridiculous. But if you got money to burn, go for it.
It gets worse. I’m in Canada. That $120 is about $160 up here. Problem is PCV valves are calibrated to the engine and really only work properly on the exact engine they were designed for. Once the original is lost/gone/worn out, you are stuck with generic replacements. Remember the PCV valve is just a big vacuum leak. If it’s not properly calibrated to the engine you get all the issues that go with that.
Well, I replaced mine and then thought about it because I upgraded the engine.
I asked Lars about how you can figure out how much vacuum your PCV should be pulling, and was there a chart, etc. and basically got a I don't know answer because he's never seen a chart.
So if you can show us some real documentation on how to find a PCV that is "properly calibrated" to your engine without spending $120, I'd be happy to read it. Until then it's all a minor consideration for most of us.
I've probably got 6 different PCVs with different codes on the bottom that mean almost nothing.
Well, I replaced mine and then thought about it because I upgraded the engine.
I asked Lars about how you can figure out how much vacuum your PCV should be pulling, and was there a chart, etc. and basically got a I don't know answer because he's never seen a chart.
So if you can show us some real documentation on how to find a PCV that is "properly calibrated" to your engine without spending $120, I'd be happy to read it. Until then it's all a minor consideration for most of us.
I've probably got 6 different PCVs with different codes on the bottom that mean almost nothing.
I agree. Its a minor consideration. I guess I'm just running out of things to fine tune on this motor. When I built this motor I did some research into PCV valves and that's when I realized that the ones we are using are all compromises. I am curious if I can improve the idle quality with the correct PCV set up. I also agree that $129 is outrageous, but its the only way I will know for sure. It sounds like I get to be the guinea pig. If I go ahead, I'll be sure to report back.
If your 383 has about the same HP and similar redline to the LT-1 engine, go with that. PCV units are designed to stay closed as idle and begin to flow at low cruising speed. They also must be able to handle the internal crankcase positive flowrate at max rpm for that engine. I think you're making this way too complicated for the task at hand.
Selecting one spec'd for a 400 cu in SBC engine would be a reasonable choice, as well.
Last edited by 7T1vette; May 29, 2020 at 12:13 AM.
drwet:
I got curious and read the tech articles posted at mewagner.com and began to notice a trend.
They never really tell you anything about the valves available on the market that they are testing against. They just call them stock valve a, b, etc.
Second thing I noticed, is that searching for information on the internet is pretty much useless. You still cannot find out which PCV (I have 6, from over the years, all with different codes) does what. The code definitions are not available. Must be a big industy secret. Maybe smoke-and-mirrors?
Yes, the PCV is a vacuum leak, hell, the whole engine is designed as a vacuum leak. No big news there.
But does a PCV that you can tune make a diffenence, or does it make you feel like you've solved the world's problems with old cars, when in fact you've wasted time and money?
For me, I'll let that mystery alone, not worth the trouble.
drwet:
I got curious and read the tech articles posted at mewagner.com and began to notice a trend.
They never really tell you anything about the valves available on the market that they are testing against. They just call them stock valve a, b, etc.
Second thing I noticed, is that searching for information on the internet is pretty much useless. You still cannot find out which PCV (I have 6, from over the years, all with different codes) does what. The code definitions are not available. Must be a big industy secret. Maybe smoke-and-mirrors?
Yes, the PCV is a vacuum leak, hell, the whole engine is designed as a vacuum leak. No big news there.
But does a PCV that you can tune make a diffenence, or does it make you feel like you've solved the world's problems with old cars, when in fact you've wasted time and money?
For me, I'll let that mystery alone, not worth the trouble.
Unfortunately one of my many character flaws is once I have a question in my head it bugs me until I answer it. I have also scoured the internet for answers to this question, and like you, have come to the conclusion that the only way to find out is to buy one and try it. If it wasn't $129 I would have already done that.
I'm still confounded that a simple device that has been on cars since 1961, and in fact still functions as designed, has not started a full aftermarket rush to "better" the device and haul in money by the boat-load. Must be because there is little to be gained.
There are plenty of articles out there on what vacuum you should see the valve open at idle and crusing.
Sure sounds like more hit-and-miss because the makers of these devices do NOT publish any specs.
At any rate, I quit. I'm not reinventing the wheel. My PCV works, or seems to for the last 22 years as the engine got older. Still seems to work now with all new internals and increased HP and compression. Don't see any blow-by, don't see any drips. Yep seems to work.
Why does one need to "better the device" for something as simple as a waste air dump valve??? You fellas are a classic case of the Executive Board who can't make a decision about what color to paint the bicycle rack.....
This device is a SMALL vacuum leak--but only after the engine is up to low cruising speeds (over 1000 rpm, approx.). It is closed at idle [NO blow-by], so it doesn't affect idle quality.
It needs to be big enough to handle the amount of crankcase blow-by produced by the engine: ie, larger engine = larger PCV valve capacity; and higher performance = looser rings, more blow-by.
Other than that, what do you need to know? Pick one designed for an engine that "kinda" matches what you have. NOT BRAIN SURGERY!
P.S. The $129 special, super-duper, "adjustable" PCV valve is designed and priced just for folks who can't get thru the "fog"...
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
Originally Posted by drwet
Yes the PCV calibration does matter. With that said, most guys (myself included) don't really pay a lot of attention. As long as it fits and works, its OK. I recently ran across this fully adjustable PCV valve:
The concept makes sense and despite the cost, I have every intention of ordering and installing one once this virus crap settles down.
I have one of their PCV's in my 383 in my 82 a few years back. I works awesome and it does make a difference. Yeah, it is a bit pricey, but it is a custom machined piece and that comes at a price, ask me how I know this.
Last edited by Buccaneer; May 29, 2020 at 01:15 PM.
I have one of their PCV's in my 383 in my 82 a few years back. I works awesome and it does make a difference. Yeah, it is a bit pricey, but it is a custom machined piece and that comes at a price, ask me how I know this.
Aha! Someone with real world experience. You don't know how hard I have looked for someone like you. Tell me more. How hard is it to set up? What improvements did you see? Does it fit the factory valve cover grommet? What do you have for a baffle in the valve cover? Any tips?
Why does one need to "better the device" for something as simple as a waste air dump valve??? You fellas are a classic case of the Executive Board who can't make a decision about what color to paint the bicycle rack.....
This device is a SMALL vacuum leak--but only after the engine is up to low cruising speeds (over 1000 rpm, approx.). It is closed at idle [NO blow-by], so it doesn't affect idle quality.
It needs to be big enough to handle the amount of crankcase blow-by produced by the engine: ie, larger engine = larger PCV valve capacity; and higher performance = looser rings, more blow-by.
Other than that, what do you need to know? Pick one designed for an engine that "kinda" matches what you have. NOT BRAIN SURGERY!
P.S. The $129 special, super-duper, "adjustable" PCV valve is designed and priced just for folks who can't get thru the "fog"...
Thing is - if you were paying for other 'genuine' USA manufactured components you might be happier to pay a 'modern day' and a seemingly inflated price. Perhaps for so many people buying Chinese and other far eastern or south American manufactured products we've forgotten how much home produced components can really cost. I don't begrudge the manufacturer of the product selling direct and making a profit - hopefully investing in other similar quality made products - if its too expensive for ones pocket, then best not buy it!
roscobbc:
I think you completely miss the point of this thread.
It is not about "genuine" or "modern day" vs the exisiting available replacement parts.
The replacement parts work just fine. And yes, maybe you should think about installing a different valve if your engine upgrades warrent it.
The point was: is it worth $130? What does it really do that the stock unit does not?
Sure a manufacurer can charge what ever they need to recoup R&D costs.
I have yet to hear what the big gains are vs cost to make this product so great.
One guy here says "it works awesome". WTH does that mean? All that billet aluminum looks better than black plastic?
My stock looking valve "works awesome" too. In other words it does it's job.
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
I would rather flush $120 down the toilet than buy one of those billet pcv's. But heck, I eliminated that big vacuum leak altogether. I run two breathers. I don't drive the car enough where contamination of the oil will be an issue between oil changes. My engine is tight so no oil misting all over the engine bay.
roscobbc:
I think you completely miss the point of this thread.
It is not about "genuine" or "modern day" vs the exisiting available replacement parts.
The replacement parts work just fine. And yes, maybe you should think about installing a different valve if your engine upgrades warrent it.
The point was: is it worth $130? What does it really do that the stock unit does not?
Sure a manufacurer can charge what ever they need to recoup R&D costs.
I have yet to hear what the big gains are vs cost to make this product so great.
One guy here says "it works awesome". WTH does that mean? All that billet aluminum looks better than black plastic?
My stock looking valve "works awesome" too. In other words it does it's job.
Thanks Ken - I'm really 'sitting on the fence here' - like others I have used generic PCV valves on my Vette - but also like others I have experienced 'breathing' issues. The issues turned out to be a combination of aftermarket dipstick and tube giving an inaccurate reading (and resultant overfilling of oil) + poor fit in crankcase and resultant 'blowing-off' of oil and vapour - additionally with no baffles on 'tall rocker covers and the hole for filler cap/pcv directly over the top of a rocker (resulting in oil being squirted thru hole) initially the causes of my specific issues were difficult to trace. However the 'one size fits all' logic in relation to PCV valves is a false one - PVC valves do differ and the selection of a $130 unit is no different to choosing a brand name wheel, carb or cam or even a simple radiator cap. For someone with an engine that has significant 'blow-past' the Wagner unit might be worth its money?
I think we need to get over the price tag. It is another tuning tool. I have one and it works very well.I paid $100, but that is not particularly relevant. Hell, I’ve given away $100 or spent it on a night out, so why would I sweat that price point.
it works really well for engines that develop low vacuum. I’m at 10” at idle in gear with electric fans running.
It works well enough that I have spent more for less, that’s for sure.
it is a well designed and thought out device that does precisely what it says it does. Not Chinese garbage. I spent enough time fiddling around with different pcv valves that didn’t work.
i have no problem supporting US designed and made products that deliver on quality and performance.
Last edited by REELAV8R; May 31, 2020 at 12:28 PM.
I think we need to get over the price tag. It is another tuning tool. I have one and it works very well.I paid $100, but that is not particularly relevant. Hell, I’ve given away $100 or spent it on a night out, so why would I sweat that price point.
it works really well for engines that develop low vacuum. I’m at 10” at idle in gear with electric fans running.
It works well enough that I have spent more for less, that’s for sure.
it is a well designed and thought out device that does precisely what it says it does. Not Chinese garbage. I spent enough time fiddling around with different pcv valves that didn’t work.
i have no problem supporting US designed and made products that deliver on quality and performance.