Drained the coolant and flushed about 5 times. Ran some blue devil radiator flush and water, ran great for 30 mins. Good news is the heat isn’t the issue, but it appears to be tune or fuel related. On to more troubleshooting. Appreciate everyone’s input.

 

Did the over heating start after or before the modifications?

 

after. One of the things I did was pull a heater hose (going into the intake) because I removed and painted the valve covers while waiting for the carb to arrive. Found out while flushing the system I had tightened it too much and create a torn hose right on the intake. Small leaks that was evaporating coolant, redid the hose, no leak now and proper cooling. The rest is a timing issue right now, I believe.

 

overheating was after. It was running ok from the swap at idle and low speeds, but seemed hot and that was what I was wondering was causing the cutting. Fixed the coolant issues and it’s still cutting. Because of tuning. Not sure if I mentioned it in an earlier thread, but the car needs some attention both from maintenance and driving. My brother in law recommended the carb swap but he thought it would be an easy swap because of the bore adapter.

 

Thank you for the clarification.
Your new set up has a lean condition, and your tach is all over the place.
Unplug the white wire from the HEI cap marked tach and set your timing to
36* at 3000 rpm with vacuum advance unplugged and capped. Tell us what the idle timing is, then plug in the vacuum advance and report that number too.
I would also re install your old carb. Start at square one.

 

cutting out. do you have a timing light? if not,time to get one anyway. A. you need tohave it timed correctly AND BE ABLE TO DO IT YOURSELF! B. it is a good ignition tester. if you are watching it flash, and it stops flashing as engine cuts out, it is ignition issue. if it keeps flashing as engine quits, it is a fuel issue.

 

I am going to be getting one now. For those exact reasons.

 

Innova 5568 is state of the art.

 

Thanks again everyone. Spent yesterday changing the plugs wires cap and rotor after getting parts and a timing light. Set the timing earlier today as advised. Ended up at 4° initial at 650, and 36° advance at 2500. Ran great at idle but not quite the right acceleration (sputtered And occasional backfired when attempted to Floor it). After some more trouble shooting (which helped eliminate a vacuum leak) didn’t quite have it in tune. Decided to try to old cap and rotor. Worked just fine after that.

 

I have absolutely no idea how you could get 36 degrees [maximum] mechanical advance (without vacuum connected) at 2500 rpm, yet end up with 4 degrees BTDC at 650 rpm.....

 

I was wondering that too. Is it possible the vacuum advance was still connected, and to a ported vacuum port, so it would not advance at idle?

 

Thinking more about it, I believe it was. I had set it for 36° at 3600 rpm without. But we had the issues with hesitation on the acceleration and tried timing it again, unfortunately with the vacuum on
if I am right. Drove it with the same issues with acceleration, checked the vacuum to verify that wasn’t and issue.

this was all before the cap problems were solved going back to the older cap. No issues so far but I’ll probably double check the timing later today or this week depending on life (work and trying to buy a house). Still trying to make sure the hesitation isn’t a clogged fuel filter or pump.

 

i was following this since I hadn’t timed a vehicle before.

 

When you set up the engine for 'performance' ignition timing (per Lars paper, etc), you would do best to start the engine; pull off [and plug] the hose to the advance can; then manually advance the distributor a bit so that the engine runs much easier/smoother. Now you can begin to determine the engine's present LIMIT for mechanical advance by gradually increasing engine speed until there is no more change to the mechanical advance. The rpm point at which mechanical advance ceases will likely be WAY above 3000 rpm [for a stock vehicle set to GM specs]. Do not rev an unloaded engine further than 3500 rpm. You need to make a spring change (to lighter springs) so that MAX rpm for mechanical advance drops to around 2700 +/- rpm. If your spring change is too 'soft' (MAX rpm is lower than 2500 rpm), you need to add back at least 1 stiffer spring (yes, you can have the two springs be "different"...you install whatever springs are necessary to get MAX rpm for mech advance where you wish it to be). For me, 2700 is a 'nice' place to be. If you want the most power it can make, choose 2500 rpm...or take it to a dyno and a professional tuner.
Now follow Lars papers to get idle timing in the right neighborhood without changing the distributor position.

 

thanks.