When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Rabbit trail question... why are you so concerned about temperature? 90 isn't all that hot in the scheme of summertime temps. Just curious where the cautiousness comes from.
Just past experience with gas boiling in the carb on hot days.
This is a pretty informative and not so technical you can't understand it article about gas boiling
I have this timing light too. It is great. I am not too far from you if you want to use mine and I can help if you need me too.
Joey
Thanks. I just ordered the 3568. The 5568 said ideal for someone that checks timing everyday and that clearly is not me. Hopefully the $20 I save doesn't cost me later on but I can't see me checking timing on any other engine I own.
Are you using ethanol-free fuel? If not, try a tankful of no-ethanol fuel and see if there is any difference in the engine's operation when hot. If it improves, fuel boiling/vapor lock is an issue and heat deflector/insulator under the carb and no-ethanol fuel are beneficial.
Also, if your vacuum advance can is connected to a 'timed/ported' connection on the carb, move it over to a 'manifold' vacuum connection. With it connected as factory required, you have NO vacuum advance in lower gears and the combustion chambers will run much hotter...adding to your problem.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Jun 10, 2020 at 10:18 PM.
Are you using ethanol-free fuel? If not, try a tankful of no-ethanol fuel and see if there is any difference in the engine's operation when hot. If it improves, fuel boiling/vapor lock is an issue and heat deflector/insulator under the carb and no-ethanol fuel are beneficial.
Also, if your vacuum advance can is connected to a 'timed/ported' connection on the carb, move it over to a 'manifold' vacuum connection. With it connected as factory required, you have NO vacuum advance in lower gears and the combustion chambers will run much hotter...adding to your problem.
Agree on manifold vacuum. Hot Rod magazine folks like porter vacuum, but Chevrolet engines do better with manifold vacuum advance.
Also, a vacuum gauge is really necessary to correctly tune a SBC.
Are you using ethanol-free fuel? If not, try a tankful of no-ethanol fuel and see if there is any difference in the engine's operation when hot. If it improves, fuel boiling/vapor lock is an issue and heat deflector/insulator under the carb and no-ethanol fuel are beneficial.
Also, if your vacuum advance can is connected to a 'timed/ported' connection on the carb, move it over to a 'manifold' vacuum connection. With it connected as factory required, you have NO vacuum advance in lower gears and the combustion chambers will run much hotter...adding to your problem.
Looks like there is a circle K about 15 minutes away that sells 90 octane E0. I will make it a goal to drive this tank as close to empty as I can and fill up down there.
I've had a metal heat shield before and took it off because it didn't solve the problem. But that was before sending the carb to Lars.
The distributor is connected to the carb. Where is a location to get manifold vacuum? (That question probably tells you a lot about my experience level right there).
It's worth the $20- to have a digital tach. And if you don't have HEI, you need the 5568 to measure dwell.
But if your tach is good, and you set your dwell by feel, you don't need those features. Please let us know how it goes!
I actually have a breakerless SE ignition. I don't know if that is considered HEI but it does replace the points and I chose it because of previous starting issues and it looks stock.
My tach is good but the 3568 measures rpm and dwell according to one website.
The distributor is connected to the carb. Where is a location to get manifold vacuum? (That question probably tells you a lot about my experience level right there).
You can check with your finger, or you can check with a gauge, but I've been burned in the past trying to guess the port from a diagram.
I use a Lisle 20300 vacuum gauge, which seemed to work great, and is an essential part of adjusting the idle mixture screws.
The usual 'manifold' vacuum port is the tube sticking out the right side of the Q-Jet through the choke mechanism. If that is not available, it could be connected to a vacuum feed directly off the intake manifold. I would recommend that it not be connected with the power brake booster vacuum feed, as that should be left as a 'sole purpose' vacuum line.
Vacuum line goes from distributor to the right side of the carburetor but it does go through the TCS solenoid which it appears blocks the vacuum advance while in 1st or 2nd gear and even 3rd gear on 72's.
That will definitely make the engine run hotter...especially at idle and during lower speed driving. If the TCS system is working properly, high range operation (manual or auto trans) will revert to manifold vacuum. Unless you are an avid "factory configuration' hobbyist, I would recommend that you bypass the TCS stuff with a vacuum line running from the vacuum advance can directly to that right side (manifold vacuum) fitting. You could still leave the TCS items in place on the intake; just don't connect it.
P.S. Your engine will appreciate disconnecting with TCS...
You would have to test which way the TCS solenoid worked. If it passes vacuum when not powered, you could just leave it all connected as is but not put the electrical connector back on the solenoid. If it blocks passes vacuum when powered, then you would need to send 12vdc signal to the solenoid at all times. Not too sure how that would work out long-term.