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Can I remove my PCV and just put in a valve cover breather and plug carb. Having issues since putting in a 383 striker where oil is being picked up through the PVC and being burnt through the carb?
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
I can't think of a single good reason to delete the PCV valve/system on a street-driven car - it's one of the best inventions since they got rid of the draft tube. If you're sucking oil through the PCV, you have a problem that needs to be fixed - deleting the PCV does not fix the problem. Fix the problem.
"I have piston slap and knocking on #1 cylinder, but if I remove the #1 spark plug wire, the knocking sound goes away. Is it OK to remove the #1 plug wire?"
PCV should go into intake below carb. Only on boats does the vent go to spark arrestor. (Air filter.) You have a vent on the other side. Pull PCV from intake and cap vacuum leak. Put PCV hose into a plastic jar and tape it to stay. Drive. Getting oil in the jar? Blowing oil from vent on other side?
I hope that you are referring to the PCV not PVC. The part is known as a Positive Crankcase Vent and not for Poly-Vinyl Chloride piping.
I have a Big block C3 and on it I have breather/Filters on the two PVC mounting holes. Whatever you do be sure that the pressure does not build up inside the engine. When a PCV get frozen internally it can pressurize the internals of the engine and this will lead to a oil seal giving out. It happened to my Mother's car. She had to replace the entire engine because of a $5 part.
If the oil is being blown out through the PCV? Where will the oil go if not into your engine? I would consider a Catch can to be installed in you PCV tubing to intercept the oil and keep it from being ingested into your engine. They have become a Hot item lately due to all the Direct Injection systems on the newer cars.
The last question is why is there oil blowing out the PCV? I have a very high compression engine and have never had any oil build up in my filter/breathers.
Can I remove my PVC and just put in a valve cover breather and plug carb. Having issues since putting in a 383 striker where oil is being picked up through the PVC and being burnt through the carb?
Not to be a smart aleck, but pvc is plastic piping. pcv is positive crankcase ventilation, and part of the crankcase gases system of the 1970's.
Generally rebuilts are tight enough not to have great amounts of blow by. But generally rebuilds don't stay sealed like OEM stuff. I did re-ring on a 302 ford. 2 years later the rings gave up and engine had very little compression. It was the early 80's done by a backyard assh0le mechanic, but i was surprised at the short lifespan of the rings.
Can I remove my PCV and just put in a valve cover breather and plug carb. Having issues since putting in a 383 striker where oil is being picked up through the PVC and being burnt through the carb?
That will change the mixture. A pcv is a controlled vacuum leak. Without it, you will operate rich.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by ctmccloskey
I hope that you are referring to the PCV not PVC. The part is known as a Positive Crankcase Vent and not for Poly-Vinyl Chloride piping.
I have a Big block C3 and on it I have breather/Filters on the two PVC mounting holes. Whatever you do be sure that the pressure does not build up inside the engine. When a PCV get frozen internally it can pressurize the internals of the engine and this will lead to a oil seal giving out. It happened to my Mother's car. She had to replace the entire engine because of a $5 part.
If the oil is being blown out through the PCV? Where will the oil go if not into your engine? I would consider a Catch can to be installed in you PCV tubing to intercept the oil and keep it from being ingested into your engine. They have become a Hot item lately due to all the Direct Injection systems on the newer cars.
The last question is why is there oil blowing out the PCV? I have a very high compression engine and have never had any oil build up in my filter/breathers.
On our C3s, if a PCV valve ever freezes up, the crankcase pressure just vents out the big fresh-air supply hose on the opposite valve cover, essentially duplicating the pressure venting action of old style valve cover breathers.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by Sleper
Can I remove my PCV and just put in a valve cover breather and plug carb. Having issues since putting in a 383 striker where oil is being picked up through the PVC and being burnt through the carb?
The baffle in the valve cover is supposed to prevent that. Have you taken a close look to see if there's an issue there?
I tried removing the pcv setup years ago in a 355 Chevy. Figured 2 breathers would vent fine Kept blowing gaskets- valve covers and eventually intake. Swapped one breather for a PCV and no more issues
The baffle in the valve cover is supposed to prevent that. Have you taken a close look to see if there's an issue there?
This is usually the problem. If you use cheap aftermarket valve covers with no baffles at the PCV port you can go from burning a quart of oil every 4000 miles to burning one in 400. If you want to check, just install one of those cheap clear plastic or glass inline fuel filters in the pcv line between the carb and valve cover to see how much oil is going through there.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by CanadaGrant
This is usually the problem. If you use cheap aftermarket valve covers with no baffles at the PCV port you can go from burning a quart of oil every 4000 miles to burning one in 400. If you want to check, just install one of those cheap clear plastic or glass inline fuel filters in the pcv line between the carb and valve cover to see how much oil is going through there.
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Yes you can delete it. And yes the oil may come out the new filter cap you install. You can tap an old sock over it to absorb the oil and zip tie it on or you can go from the PC to a catch can then back to the carb. I do the latter and it works well and can be setup to look nice as well
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
I can't think of a single good reason to delete the PCV valve/system on a street-driven car - it's one of the best inventions since they got rid of the draft tube. If you're sucking oil through the PCV, you have a problem that needs to be fixed - deleting the PCV does not fix the problem. Fix the problem.
"I have piston slap and knocking on #1 cylinder, but if I remove the #1 spark plug wire, the knocking sound goes away. Is it OK to remove the #1 plug wire?"
There are 64 tablespoons in a quart. If you drive 10 test miles and have a tablespoon in the inline filter it would mean you are burning a quart every 640 miles just through the PCV. A very cheap way to rule out valve seals, rings or anything else. My "tester" is below. Plug it into the carb and the PVC line on the other end and go for a drive. A really bad fuel filter but great for this and you can unscrew it, clean it out and use it again.
Last edited by CanadaGrant; Jun 27, 2020 at 01:54 PM.
I can't think of a single good reason to delete the PCV valve/system on a street-driven car - it's one of the best inventions since they got rid of the draft tube. If you're sucking oil through the PCV, you have a problem that needs to be fixed - deleting the PCV does not fix the problem. Fix the problem.
"I have piston slap and knocking on #1 cylinder, but if I remove the #1 spark plug wire, the knocking sound goes away. Is it OK to remove the #1 plug wire?"
Lars
Dumping spent oil in the air for no reason is like throwing trash out the window.
worlds smallest puke can... oh where did you get that? i need a couple of those elements for my seadoos.
You can buy them on fleabay all day long for about 5 bucks each delivered. Very dangerous as a fuel filter as the threads on the cast connecting rod inside strip out or the end seals start to leak but good for this. input "inline glass fuel filter"
Thanks for all the input and the ideas. I checked and there was no baffle under the PCV so I replumbed it to the other end of the valve cover where there was a baffle. Engine is a 383 crate motor from GM. Took it for a drive and it seems better. Time will tell as it will take time for it to run through the rubber hose but so far so good. Thanks again for all the input.
PVC delete
This is usually the problem. If you use cheap aftermarket valve covers with no baffles at the PCV port you can go from burning a quart of oil every 4000 miles to burning one in 400. If you want to check, just install one of those cheap clear plastic or glass inline fuel filters in the pcv line between the carb and valve cover to see how much oil is going through there.
