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Old Jul 1, 2020 | 12:46 PM
  #21  
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I guess their design didn't change for MY model booster - 2229NB. That's the same booster they list for a '69 350 ci. Which model # booster are you looking at?

Last edited by resdoggie; Jul 1, 2020 at 12:49 PM.
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Old Jul 1, 2020 | 01:03 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Sayfoo
You're probably right. Coupled with the instructions provided by Rogers, it could work.
Are the adjustable rods on all or some units? The factory product pictures that I saw didn't show them. The rod spacer that would be needed for a '69 deep hole mc is not provided with their booster only. I did see it pictured with their mc rebuild kit, but it is not available separately. Their tech said he had heard of people making their own spacers but I'm not going to mouse in brake parts.
Anyway, I looked at them, almost bought, called them, then decided not to buy.
They seem to be a good American co. Hopefully they can clear up any misinformation out there.
Or, if you're so happy with them, perhaps you could give them a heads up?
Lol, not my job to educate him on his products. That booster uses a non-adjustable MC rod. I was suspect at first and wanted to use my oem adjustable MC rod. Wasn't going to happen. But the adjustment on the pedal rod works just as good but inconvenient if it ever needs adjust later on, but still doable just the same. My TS booster will hold vacuum for days and days. Highly recommend their boosters.
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Old Jan 26, 2021 | 05:01 AM
  #23  
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So I just received the booster marked as a replacement for my 71. And it is not the same shape. So what to do? Thread adjustment? Master cylinder spacer?

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Old Jan 26, 2021 | 10:55 AM
  #24  
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Follow the installation instructions.
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Old Jan 26, 2021 | 11:01 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by resdoggie
Follow the installation instructions.
Which one? I got none with the booster.
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Old Jan 26, 2021 | 11:10 AM
  #26  
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Is it a Tuff Stuff booster?
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Old Jan 26, 2021 | 11:14 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by resdoggie
Is it a Tuff Stuff booster?
No it is not tuff stuff but looks the same as theirs. Bought at corvette pacifica.
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Old Jan 26, 2021 | 11:27 AM
  #28  
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Any other parts in the box? You should call the vendor and ask for the instructions.
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Old Jan 26, 2021 | 11:29 AM
  #29  
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If it advertised as a functional replacement, it should work even if it doesn't look the same.
The critical parts are the rod to mc length and the clevis to brake pedal connection.
I'd call the vendor and talk to them. Who knows, they may have sent you the wrong one.
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Old Jan 26, 2021 | 12:37 PM
  #30  
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I did call the vendor and I'm stil waiting for feedback.
In the box was a clevis to brake pedal connector and a metal "rod" for I don't know what.
Is it possible that it has to be cut to size and used as a master cylinder "spacer"?
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Old Jan 26, 2021 | 12:44 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by resdoggie
They changed their design. My booster doesn't look like anything in their pdf's and I'm using the oem MC, not theirs. Again, my rod adjustment is done at the brake pedal and not at the MC. My booster was also '76 C3 specific and not a universal one.

I said C3 specific but maybe not. However, that's the booster that's selected for my year vette from their website. And it works.

Originally Posted by Primoz
I did call the vendor and I'm stil waiting for feedback.
In the box was a clevis to brake pedal connector and a metal "rod" for I don't know what.
Is it possible that it has to be cut to size and used as a master cylinder "spacer"?
Post a pic please. Does the back of the booster look like this?
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Old Jan 26, 2021 | 12:49 PM
  #32  
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This is the booster I've got.


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Old Jan 26, 2021 | 01:51 PM
  #33  
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Ok, so yours is different than mine but I'll suggest this. The brake clevis pin connecting point and the distance to the tip of the m/c rod is a fixed distance. Take your old booster assembly off and before doing anything else, measure that distance as accurately as you can. Now on the workbench, measure your new booster distance. They should be close to the same if not the same. If there is a difference in length, thats all you need to figure out how to get it the same as the old one.
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Old Jan 27, 2021 | 01:52 AM
  #34  
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Also for the information I will use wilwood master cylinder with the new booster.
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Old Jan 27, 2021 | 12:34 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by resdoggie
Ok, so yours is different than mine but I'll suggest this. The brake clevis pin connecting point and the distance to the tip of the m/c rod is a fixed distance. Take your old booster assembly off and before doing anything else, measure that distance as accurately as you can. Now on the workbench, measure your new booster distance. They should be close to the same if not the same. If there is a difference in length, thats all you need to figure out how to get it the same as the old one.
FYI There are at least 2 different length clevis's. If your pedal is too low, you can use a longer one to raise it.
If you're happy with your pedal height, make sure that the overall length is the same, new and old. Swap them out as necessary.
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Old Jan 27, 2021 | 02:50 PM
  #36  
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Finally talked with the Corvette Pacifica.
Helpfull as always and they said that they get their boosters from MBM.
This is the link to the boosters manufacturer:
http://mbmbrakes.com/corvette-1968-7...ster-w-yz-rod/

Last edited by Primoz; Jan 29, 2021 at 12:54 PM.
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Old Mar 22, 2021 | 04:31 PM
  #37  
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Got around and mocked up the setup.
Probably will work without any issues with the Wilwood supplied spacer plug.





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Old Mar 23, 2021 | 10:14 AM
  #38  
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you just have to measure the distance that the spacer goes into the plunger and the distance it will stick out of the booster. THere is a tool for this but you can do it with a digital caliper/ vernier.

Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Mar 23, 2021 at 10:15 AM.
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Old Mar 23, 2021 | 12:33 PM
  #39  
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I tried that but the measurements are inconclusive..... wait you gave me an idea.
Will measure again and post the reply later today!
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Old Mar 23, 2021 | 03:58 PM
  #40  
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OK! I measured the distance roughly with the vernier and the space measured is 1.3 mm. The gap should be around 0.020" that is 0.5mm.
Since the space was measured with everything disassembled the assembled booster an master with the master cylinder bolts tightened the gap should narrow to around 0.5mm or there about.

Last edited by Primoz; Mar 23, 2021 at 03:58 PM.
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