Brake booster
Pro
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 733
Likes: 15
From: Clarksburg NJ
Not to hijack the thread, but I'm working on a '72 that's been driving me nuts. In about 35 years of working on C-3's, I've never had such a hard time with brakes, especially getting them bled. Anyway, I'm on my second new booster (I'll refrain from where it came from, as I don;t want to call out any particular vendor) that is causing the pedal to return very slowly to the top. In fact, it "catches" about an inch or so from the top, then "pops" into place. I've inspected the pedal arm travel for any binding, the spring at the top of the pedal box, etc., and all checks out. With the master cylinder removed, it does the same thing. The old, rusty booster that was in the car does not do this. Has anyone else experienced this? It seems that if the pushrod to the master cylinder isn't in a very specific spot, it will catch a ridge inside that causes this hesitation. Been working on the system for days, and I'm mentally and physically exhausted. I'm definitely going to be very specific on where I get parts going forward. Any info is appreciated. 
PS, it's worth mentioning I've used the pushrod checking tool and I'm about .030 from the pushrod touching the MC...
PS, it's worth mentioning I've used the pushrod checking tool and I'm about .030 from the pushrod touching the MC...
Last edited by TPIShark; Apr 22, 2021 at 09:15 AM. Reason: additional info added
Is my vette stock?? HAHA
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 20,211
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From: Im not allowed to tell you
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
it sounds like a bad booster... if you disconnect the pedal linkage does the pedal move freely?
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Apr 22, 2021 at 10:09 AM.
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 1,213
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Agree that it maybe a faulty booster. But that's not the fault of a C3 braking system. I have pedal bled all vehicles I've owned that needed bleeding for near 50 years. Absolutely works on a properly functioning brake system. C3's are no exception. Maybe, just maybe, you somehow installed or didn't set something up properly?
Pro
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 733
Likes: 15
From: Clarksburg NJ
Hi guys, I spoke with the manufacturer, who had me check with what amounted to a version number for the unit, and offered to replace it, even though he stated he's never had a problem with the one I have. I will say it seems to work okay now with the engine running, so I'm going to take it for a short test drive around the building. The bleeding was a different issue; didn't mean to cause confusion there. I think that amounted to a front hose that, while recently replaced, may have been abused, and was causing it to collapse internally. Going forward, I believe pressure bleeding is probably the best way to do these, just the same. I also like the "speed bleeder" screws with the internal check valve. They are expensive, but I would guess worth it. It's just been frustrating to have taken so long, esp. when I'm VERY diligent about every step. For example, I made up hard lines to bench bleed the master, instead of the plastic adapters. Bleed it over the course of a few hours while doing other work, making sure I got every last air bubble out. Like others have eluded to on here, not all parts are created equal, and I'm going to be very selective going forward. I will say I've had good experiences with Tuff Stuff. I went through three power steering pumps for a Chevelle until I tried theirs.
