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I have the center console out and all apart for red painting . I have painted the metal shift-ashtray plate, the forward fiber optic metal plate. The 2 screws that held the left and right side vent cables to the under side of the console were a huge pain in the arss to remove. I removed the 2 rivets that hold the forward U shaped bracket on the console to the tunnel. Replaced the bulbs that I found burned out. ETC ETC! Now it's time to try and put it back together. Any suggestions on what order to reinstall everything? The 2 screws that attach the vent cables to the underside of the console were the hardest to remove,,, so start there? The radio and instrument panel is out also.
rivet the u-bracket back in place
bolt the vent cables in (take them off the kick-panels if you wish
Use two long connecting nuts for the gauge panel nuts, much easier to get a wrench on when the time comes
use the parking-brake console to get it in the right place forward/aft
Measure / install the gauge cluster, check the console to upper dash height, bolt the u-brace to the floor when it's in the right place up/down (they droop over the years like most things)
Careful not to break the gauge cluster in that thin spot like so so so many of them are
Leaving the passenger side lower dash out helps let you get in behind for adjusting
M
One thing I am not sure about is the 2 screws that hold the fiber optic bar in vs the 2 screws that hold the vent cables to the underside of the console.
The couplers are a helpful step. I also installed a bracket on the console to help with the install. Also preinstalled the couplers so I could use Allen head bolts to tighten things up. I deemed it easier to have the extra room for my fingers to work the Allen bolt into the coupler. . My cluster looks a little different as I have two gauges where the radio was. Hope this helps, here's what my cluster and console looked like out of the car. It is still not easy, they probably gave this job to the new guy on the assy line. Good luck
I like the idea of allen head bolts for the vent cables. It should make it easier to get at. The two bolts at the bottom of the instrument cluster have never had nuts on them. Thanks.
I like the idea of allen head bolts for the vent cables. It should make it easier to get at. The two bolts at the bottom of the instrument cluster have never had nuts on them. Thanks.
It's just the OCD, I couldn't let them be. You're welcome
What a pain in the ars,,,, again. The center console was never meant to be removed, but finally got it back in. Just a few notes. I did refinish the console and other interior pieces. Wash it well with Dawn, use SEM vinyl prep,,,, then SEM flexible primer, finish with SEM portola red. My console was very dirty and worn, it looks new now. I am not sure about later years, but it seems impossible to remove the heater control and frame from the center area, and didn't want to unhook all of the control cables. During the install, I first attached the fiber optic bar to the under side of the console. The FO wire is long enough to turn the console and screw the 2 screws in. I did get 2 allen head bolts to hold the 2 vent cables to the underside of the console. I then used a very long allen wrench to get to the 2 vent cable attachments and screwed them in,,,,,, not easy. You have to do this while the console is in place. I did have the radio and the instrument panel detached and moved out of the way. The rest is fairly easy. I also tried to find any bulbs that were not connected or burned out and refinished the FO and gear shift panels.
Hmmm.... My recollection is that you just lift and tip the heater control and metal frame as a set and pull the trans console over them.
You may [or may not] have to remove the Bowden cable from the heater control to get enough slack to twist them a bit.
That is true. Getting the heater controls in place during install is easy. Just work it through the opening in the console. But then you have to install the 2 bolts that hold the vent cables to the underside of the console. I did unhook the left side vent cable from the vent. This allows you to lift the whole unit up a bit for more working room. I thought about removing the vent cable from the heater control at the console, but there are still the 2 turn wheel cables and the rt side vent cable that hold everything down. It's a matter of how much stuff you want to unhook to get it back together.
I know the color looks good in the photo's but the SEM portola red isn't quit correct. If I had it to do again I would use the true GM rally red. Some on here say the portola red is sold as rally red. Is there a good source for true interior rally red? Has anybody used both of the reds?
The SEM paint does seem like very good quality interior paint. Looks and feels durable.
Center shift console install.
