Can't believe what advice some people give.

 

[QUOTE=7T1vette;1601945386] the PINK stuff is meant for all aluminum engines....

Well, not really. Most or all??? of the pink/orange stuff is rated for all metals, plastics, rubber, etc.
Or at least the stuff I use is.
Zerex G 05 Antifreeze - ConsuLabwww.consulab.com › files › zerexg05TechBulletin

 

Well, DexCool builds up more rust on iron/steel parts than glycol coolants. Or didn't you dig far enough to find that out? DexCool was intended for aluminum engines.

 

I've used both with no issues. Cast iron or aluminum....no issues. Unless there's a chemist that can provide scientific proof, not opinion, it's business as usual.

 

It wasn’t.....it was designed for the 96’ S-Blazer that was overheating in Arizona hot weather testing.
All S-Blazers had iron 4.3’s in them......
The Dex has better boundary layer transfer....but is a much shorter lasting anti-freeze.
These S-Blazers are notorious for blowing heater cores and water pumps too......
My iron block Silverado has Dex Cool.....

Jebby

 

Quote from my '19 Cadillac XT4 owner's manual regarding Dex-Cool:

Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX-COOL coolant. This mixture:
. Gives freezing protection down to −37 °C (−34 °F), outside temperature.
. Gives boiling protection up to 129 °C (265 °F), engine temperature.
. Protects against rust and corrosion.
. Will not damage aluminum parts.
.Helps keep the proper engine temperature.

If it protects against rust, it must be compatible with iron. Recommend change interval is 5 yrs or 150,000 miles.

 

It is and always has been compatible with iron / ferrous; but it Does Not Like AIR which causes sludging & plugging

MANY lawsuits filed against GM regarding DexCool

GM finally capitulated about 1999 and issued a TSB; advising how to correct. tsb 99-06-02-012D

here
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1577081511

 

And it likes potable water - not distilled.

So, how many folks won their lawsuit, I wonder?

 

If you use tap water, I guarantee, you'll get mineral deposits in your radiator.

 

Thanks Jebbysan! I was wondering if there was a better way to get more into the block faster. (I'll be doing this in not too long, too.)

-OP: Remember water cools better than anti-freeze, so if you're in a temperate climate (I'm in Seattle; quite temperate), you can do as Jebbysan says and use more water. You MIGHT want to add a water wetter which includes an anti-corrosive package normally if you're going to have more water in your blend.


Adam

 

When I pulled mine last winter, half of it broken off in the block... An EZ-Out saved the day, though! Threads were still good.


Adam

 

I am in southeast Texas where it gets very hot and humid. I also just added Vintage Air which will further stress the engine.

I will use 75% distilled water and 25% green anti freeze

 

Less coolant cools better, BUT it also lowers the boiling point. More water and less coolant in the mix plus a higher radiator cap pressure, gets you the cooling benefit of more water in the blend and higher boiling temps.
I'd add something like a bottle of VP Racing's VP "Cool Down" additive to ensure you've got enough anti-corrosion additive and the surfacant is an added bonus. (I think most of these products are basically the same though; Surfacant to improve cooling through reduction in surface tension and anti-corrosion agent.)

For a 75% water "Blend" I believe you can take the Boiling point temp from the MFGR for a 50/50 blend and just half the distance between that and 212F @ sea level to have a good estimate. (If your coolant estimates 265F boiling point with a 50/50 blend, I THINK you can do: 265 - 212 = 53F increase in boiling temp and then half that 53F difference to a 26.5 deg diff because you have 1/2 as much antifreeze so 212F + 26.5F = 238.5F boiling point. I have no idea what radiator pressure estimate is baked into a coolant's boiling temp rating, though, but increasing to a higher pressure radiator cap will up it. (Dewitts says you increase the boiling point by 3 degrees for ever 1 PSI increase in internal radiator pressure: https://www.dewitts.com/blogs/news/1...g-should-i-use).

-Dewitts also says 50/50 water / ethylene glycol has a boiling point of 223 degrees with no pressure... With my made-up space math that means 217.5F boiling point with 75% water 25% ethylene glycol. A 15 PSI cap ads 45 degrees for 262.5 F boiling point. (The Dewitts data points highlight that radiator coolant rantings are highly likely to be performed with an assumed radiator pressure and are definitely NOT at atmospheric.)

I THINK most C3s came with a 15lb pressure cap; my aftermarket Champion radiator came with an 8lb cap and I had to buy the optional 16lb cap as an upgrade to get to basically the same pressure as a stock C3 rad pressure, so worth checking, potentially if you have an aftermarket radiator.

Adam

 

LOL, Welcome to my world. 20 years of this!

 

Hi Tom!
Are you of Dewitt;s Radiators?

 

Was, retired

 

Great product! Have one in both of my C3"s