hello, this is a relay valve for the water temperature, I have two wires coming out of the engine of white and one black, can anyone tell me how to connect the two wires ???? the sensor has two white wires

 

MaximO,

I know you have your hands full right now, but can you take a photograph of the car electronic control module (ECM) for us? It is located in the battery compartment on the front side.

Do not disconnect anything. I just want to see is the previous owner changed the engine control computer and possibly has the wrong one in there.

That brass plug in the last picture is the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor that sends temperature information to the car computer.

 

ok ok now i take a picture, but i changed the two ECM sensors on the throttle body, and the car works fine now

 

ok ok now i take a picture, but i changed the two ECM sensors on the throttle body, and the car works fine now
this is my onboard computer of my corvette 82 which is in front of the battery

 

I have to replace the water temperature sensor, I have two wires coming out of the engine one white and one black how do I make the connection if I have two white wires to connect to the sensor ???????

 

That is great news on the engine. You changed the two Idle Air Control (IAC) motors on the throttle bodies and it started running fine?

That ECM computer looks like the original computer.

I am not sure on the temperature wires. I would not want to tell you anything I am not sure about. If the car is running good, why do you need to change that temperature sensor?

 

the machine gets too hot, and I already have the two thermostats of the previously ordered water temperature control in the house

 

I'm a bit confused, but it is probably because of the language barrier and the use of the correct terms for parts. The picture above...on the left is the engine temperature sensor mounted on the drivers side head, in-between number 1 and 3 cylinder. The other looks like a CTS two wire sensor, but not sure. Your temp sensor IS a one wire sensor only. The newer style CTS sensor is a two wire, one for signal and the other ground. The original CTS sensor mounted in the front of the engine under a plastic shield was a one wire and took its ground through the sensor threads from the engine block and then that ground is from the engine to frame ground. The newer two wire sensor is a better choice, just connect it properly. Refer to the GM manual wiring diagram.

If you are having a cooling issue, is it at idle or at driving speed? There is a difference. If it is at idle, you are not drawing enough air through the radiator to keep it cool. You may have a bad clutch fan or radiator or it is plugged up at the bottom. Clean out the bottom of the radiator with water, but not a hard pressure hose, it may bend the fins in the radiator. You would be surprised how much debris the radiator will collect at the bottom.
The C3 corvette is a bottom feeder cooling system whereby the air must be drawn from the bottom, directed up by the diverter panel and directed into the radiator. YOU MUST HAVE THE AIR DAM PIECES on the top and on both sides of the radiator to seal and direct the air through the radiator properly to cool it. If the issue is while driving, you have a cooling system issue and a lot of things must be checked in the entire cooling system.

If you replaced both of the IAC's and it is running much better, you are on the right path to getting it to run better. The IAC's are a controlled vacuum leak and they MUST work properly to have the engine idle properly. Good luck.

 

i changed the ECM sensors under the throttle body and the car runs fine from 1000 to 1100 idle. perfect

 

That's awesome and thanks for the update. Sometimes you get lucky and it's something easy.

 

yes all right

 

[QUOTE = Maxim0; 1602083995] si va bene [/ QUOTE]
buongiorno chiedo agli esperti della corvette 82 ,,,, se sotto la console del cambio c'è un connettore una spina per la riserva del carburante ,? Ho rifatto il cambio automatico e ora ha smesso di accendere la luce. Penso che il meccanico qualcosa toccato .thank voi per la risposta

 

[QUOTE = Maxim0; 1602087734] [QUOTE = Maxim0; 1602083995] si va bene [/ QUOTE]
buongiorno chiedo agli esperti della corvette 82 ,,,, se sotto la console del cambio c'è un connettore una spina per la riserva del carburante,? Ho rifatto il cambio automatico e ora ha smesso di accendere la luce. Penso che il meccanico qualcosa toccato .thank voi per la risposta [/ QUOTE]

[QUOTE = 4-vettes; 1602029259] L'IAC è l'Idle Air Controller.
questo potrebbe essere il problema, suppongo. Ma personalmente avrei problemi a scattare in modo più preciso prima di cambiare le parti.
se il precedente proprietario ha cambiato le cose in modo sostanziale, potrebbe essere difficile sparare in rete.
qualsiasi possibilità che tu possa contattare precedente proprietario e ottenere maggiori informazioni su un solo quello che cambia, dove fatta? [/ QUOTE]

 

Trasmission corvette 82 TH700R4 good morning I write from Italy, I don't speak English, 3 months ago my trusted mechanic redid the new transmission with the new gear kit immediately the car started to give a hit when I engage the first gear, in practice when I insert the first gear the car gives me a blow, a jerk forward, this only when I engage the first gear, maybe you can help me to understand the problem thanks.

 

https://images.app.goo.gl/bRbzJ5ZELuiD3Vik6

http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/1...ubber-cushion/

https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...n-w-bolt-63-82

 

thanks for the answer, when I engage the reverse gear everything goes smoothly, the reverse gear is very soft, I don't feel any jolt or jerk.

 

All I can say for certain is that having a mechanic replace this "snubber cushion" made a significant improvement in the somewhat violent "clunk/grunt" on 1st gear transmission engagement. It was less noticeable when engaging reverse, for some reason. I tried to jack up the vehicle and perform the replacement myself. The YouTube videos on this replacement made it look simple. However, all (100%) of the YouTube videos are using a pre-1980 C3 with a steel differential. The modern-upgraded aluminum differential on the 1980-82 C3 is larger than it's steel cousins which makes it difficult to remove the old one due to cramped spacing compared to the steel differential. So, I took it to my mechanic who charged me $75, and I provided the rubber (do NOT use poly material) replacement snubbber cushion/mounting hardware that I purchased from Willcox. They publish the straightforward replacement instructions on their website to help your mechanic. Honestly, it still has a bit of a grunt which I cannot believe was normal when the vehicle was new, but it noticeably helps and when you see the fragile, distorted condition of your 38 year old original part you will be glad that you finally had it replaced.

However, make sure that your idle is low - I believe the original specification is 500-600 RPM. A high idle will cause a violent engagement regardless of the condition of the snubber. I was able to bring my high idle down by replacing the engine coolant temp sensor (in front, located above the water pump) changing the idle air control valves with a quality part (I tried the cheap ebay option which made it worse), silicone sealing every vacuum junction in the headlight system including the interior bypass switch, and by removing the air cleaner assembly and re-tightening every manifold bolt, and throttle body bolt. Also, running a couple of bottles of fuel injector cleaner through your gas tank (at 1/4 fill level and run until nearly empty) helps restore the injector's atomized spray pattern which improves fuel delivery stability including, at low RPM. Don't rule out fouled spark plugs unless you have personally inspected/replaced them.
Hope this helps. Enjoy a bottle of your fine Italian wine for my wife and I, this evening!

Dave

 

thank you very much for your answer for me very valuable I will follow your advice, I drink a glass of wine to your health and your family