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I am planning to replace my points, and noticed that there are kits to convert and eliminate points. What are your opinions and experiences with the points eliminator kits.
I am planning to replace my points, and noticed that there are kits to convert and eliminate points. What are your opinions and experiences with the points eliminator kits.
I did a pertronix. no issues, runs great. I did run a copper wire to replace the resistance wire on my 69
2025 c3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2025 C4 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2025 C8 Stingray of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
My 66,68 were converted pointless by PO s. 71 was converted to HEI by PO. All run trouble free. Bubba used a long mounting screw on the 68 that prevented the distributor from advancing. Once discovered it was an easy fix.
I am planning to replace my points, and noticed that there are kits to convert and eliminate points. What are your opinions and experiences with the points eliminator kits.
I think for a street driven car the points system is hard to beat. If you check with Lars on this forum he would probably tell you to keep your points set up. I am currently using 2 points distributors that have been professionally rebuilt and recurved by advanceddistributors.com in Shakopee, Mn. He will not use or install any conversion kits. If you do swap out your points you should carry an extra module with you. I have been stranded twice because of module failure......both times with a gm hei distributor!!
There are two schools of thought on this:
The old school guys will tell you that points are dirt simple and you keep a set in the glove box in case you need to change them out somewhere far from home. Points require a dwell tach to set properly which are almost impossible to find now...(I have two old ones from the 80's).
The new school guys will tell you that the trigger on the conversion is maintenance free and that you can leave the key in the "on" position....(50/50 with points)....you can keep a spare conversion in your glove box too....but it is a $100 bill.
But other than that.......there is zero performance benefit at the street level.....and neither outshines the other really.
Lots of great input. It seems like the consensus is that there is no/little performance difference. So I guess the determining factor is service life and reliability.
I thought I read somewhere the conversion kit gets inaccurate or squirrely fire at high rpms. Points worked great in a jillion autos for a longtime. Maybe like the argument for mechanical vrs hydraulic lifters?
If my starter ever fails I’ll wish I still had a crank in the trunk to get my engine going...
Hard to trust EFI when carburetors work.
Certainly points will continue to do their thing as they slowly fade out of adjustment. If I had a distributor that already had points in it I’d be on the fence about changing them. But the electronic replacements are very reliable. Until they are not. Just like anything else....
There are two schools of thought on this:
The old school guys will tell you that points are dirt simple and you keep a set in the glove box in case you need to change them out somewhere far from home. Points require a dwell tach to set properly which are almost impossible to find now...(I have two old ones from the 80's).
The new school guys will tell you that the trigger on the conversion is maintenance free and that you can leave the key in the "on" position....(50/50 with points)....you can keep a spare conversion in your glove box too....but it is a $100 bill.
But other than that.......there is zero performance benefit at the street level.....and neither outshines the other really.
Jebby
If you need a modern dwell/tach look at the Harbor Freight automotive meter, 95670
In addition to the old needle type dwell tach that I've owned for 50 years....very 1960s! I also have the kit they used to sell which are a series of feeler gauge thickness rings that slip over the cam and allow you to adjust the points on the fly so to speak.
T shirt
You CAN set both points gap (dwell) and ignition timing with no more than a few hand tools, a matchbook cover and cigarette pack's cellophane; old fashioned field repair.