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Terrific picture and explanation of the new triple (three piece) synchros in the TKX vs the one piece brass ones in the TKO .
Ingenious design. Once stacked together they are the same size as the one piece synchro. But have three times the rubbing surface area!
So I’m breaking in my TKX. So far so good. Very smooth shifting and the 5th gear is great. The hydraulic clutch upgrade is a real nice upgrade. Easier depression of the pedal. Only problem is now my wife wants to drive it more.
So I got it in and will be test driving very soon. One thing I’ve noticed is the lack clearance in the shifter cut out of the console. When going to 5th or reverse it smacks the edge of the cut out.
Fixed the smacking issue. It was actually just positioned wrong in the boot. There are a few options to position and it was on 3 o’clock. Needed it in 6 o’clock.
My TKX is in the mail! (FedEx) Should be here Wednesday.
I ordered it on 4/20 from Silversport, so it took 8 weeks to ship.
They are working thru the backlog created by the very high demand this trans has caused.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
For anyone converting to any 5 speed, if you havent zeroed your bell housing you will need to for the warranty to work. If you had a muncie or T10 it wasn't necessary because the input shaft COULD take the deflection due to the input shaft bearing being the old ball and cage style. The new 5 and 6 speed designs use a cone bearing on the input shaft and a needle cage bearing behind it. The input shaft now has a zero or negative end play. My McLeod has -.002 end play as per the engineer I am talking to. So the bellhousing has to be zeroed to .004 or they wont uphold the warranty
I've never had to zero a bell housing with any Muncie, but now it's a must
Yes!
The frame is powder coated and waiting but still vertical. I hope to lay it down flat and begin frame assembly shortly.
Just need to finish the performance diff build first!
For anyone converting to any 5 speed, if you havent zeroed your bell housing you will need to for the warranty to work. If you had a muncie or T10 it wasn't necessary because the input shaft COULD take the deflection due to the input shaft bearing being the old ball and cage style. The new 5 and 6 speed designs use a cone bearing on the input shaft and a needle cage bearing behind it. The input shaft now has a zero or negative end play. My McLeod has -.002 end play as per the engineer I am talking to. So the bellhousing has to be zeroed to .004 or they wont uphold the warranty
I've never had to zero a bell housing with any Muncie, but now it's a must
very true. I did mine within specs and put it on YouTube for proof in case of warranty. It was a pita for sure
Last edited by Bluesting70; Jun 30, 2021 at 10:32 PM.
Yes!
The frame is powder coated and waiting but still vertical. I hope to lay it down flat and begin frame assembly shortly.
Just need to finish the performance diff build first!
Yes I have heard that dialing in the bell housing is a pain. But needs to be done. I read at least once that someone did not do that and the trans would not shift right, until corrected.
There are cheaper offset dowell pins but you will need to drill and tap the block for the set screws. I spent the bigger money on easy Lakewood offset pins. Cost more but does not require drilling and tapping the block. Super easy to install, align with a box end wrench and lock into place with a socket head expansion screw. It was worth it to me.
Checking the runout on the bellhousing is not that big of a job. Mine is .008" total runout. Pins are available with .007" offset so we will be within spec. Just attach the magnetic base to the flywheel, zero it out and rotate the crank. You will need offset locating dowell pins to correct it.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
I just did mine while in the car using the starter to bump the engine around while I was underneath adjusting everything. It didnt do my starter any favors. When I drop in the next big block I'll take care of it while its on the stand. I had to use the .014 dowels. Mine was off pretty good to the sides. Now its about zero...I think less than .004 to the sides and around .001 top to bottom
