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remember i removed the thermostat. the temp on off on the controller is based on the probe at the rad. the therm i had (which i'll put back after all this) is a 165. the 180 i bought wouldn't open whether i put it in an oven or threw it at the sun.
while i wait for the 15psi cap i got the 16psi lever cap. drove it for quite a bit highway and stop lights. got home and the reservoir level was still on the cold level leading me to believe the cap simply isn't opening. i pulled the lever and the tank bubbled a bit and that's it. man i drove it 70mph for awhile and had quite of bit of red lights after. it should have built up heat. the fan is set to 195 on and off at 185 now. anyway, i guess it's just not getting hot enough. shouldn't the water in the reservoir risen to the hot level or somewhere in between?
i also bought some insulation from home depot and used the rubber one on top and a small one on the side to keep air in. also used air condition duct tape to cover the vented holes you were saying.
see pics. will return excess.
you say you drove it a fair way, stop lights and all. and you say it isn't getting hot enough??? but this started with your over heating.
if you still have no thermostat, a simple test is remove rad cap. look into rad. coolant should be right up to the top or near it. have someone start car as your looking into open rad. you should see the coolant move the moment the car starts. try this on another car (thats not hot, you may need to wait for the thermostat to open, but when it does, you WILL see the coolant move). if you are not seeing rapid movement of the coolant, your pump is shot or something is blocking flow.
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Without a ts, its doubtful it will ever heat up to normal temperature. If the wp wasn't working on your test drive, it would have overheated in the block and your temp gauge would have indicated same. There is not much sense looking for solutions until you have put your system back into proper working order.
The 15psi cap came in finally and doesn’t fit my aftermarket rad! Ugh. But the pressure relief valve 16psi cap seems to be doing the trick. Hard to believe it could have been a bad cap! Let’s see tonight heading to a Vette meet in Miami
remember i removed the thermostat. the temp on off on the controller is based on the probe at the rad. the therm i had (which i'll put back after all this) is a 165. the 180 i bought wouldn't open whether i put it in an oven or threw it at the sun.
I love the verbiage.
But I do have to say - what temperature did you run the oven at? How long was the thermostat in there?
Air does not transfer heat very well. To properly test a thermostat, you should submerge it in water as hot or hotter than the opening point of the thermostat.
still no overheating. i STILL can't believe it was the cap. i go out of my way to idle now to see if i can get the temp up. the overflow tank is now slowly rising when i do let it sit a long while idling so yes, the cap. man really???????????
still no overheating. i STILL can't believe it was the cap. i go out of my way to idle now to see if i can get the temp up. the overflow tank is now slowly rising when i do let it sit a long while idling so yes, the cap. man really???????????
I totally believe it was the cap. That's why I suggested the trash-looking Stant cap back in post 4. Function always trumps form for things under the hood.
I'm glad it worked out for you. Now go drive it a bunch!
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Originally Posted by Bikespace
I totally believe it was the cap. That's why I suggested the trash-looking Stant cap back in post 4. Function always trumps form for things under the hood.
I'm glad it worked out for you. Now go drive it a bunch!
