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The squealing didn’t start until about a week or two after I had the car, and it was right after I gave it a good jab on the accelerator.
Maybe the belt was there and snapped off at that time, thus causing the noise to start?
Does the fan have to come off to install belts?
Is there a video or good step by step instructions on how to do it?
I’m currently not driving it anyway due to the other safety issues I’m trying to get sorted, but this sounds like something to get done pronto.
The squealing didn’t start until about a week or two after I had the car, and it was right after I gave it a good jab on the accelerator.
Maybe the belt was there and snapped off at that time, thus causing the noise to start?
Does the fan have to come off to install belts?
Is there a video or good step by step instructions on how to do it?
I’m currently not driving it anyway due to the other safety issues I’m trying to get sorted, but this sounds like something to get done pronto.
So it sounds like your not very mechanical (not a knock at all) so I would probably take it to someone? If you want to learn and do it yourself, I am sure there are Youtube videos. To answer your question, no the fan does not have to come off AND if the belt broke, you wouldn't have anymore squealing.. From that belt anyways.
No, what I was suggesting is that the other belts started squealing after that belt broke due to more stress on them maybe?
And no, I do computer repairs. Auto repairs are a foreign language to me.
Not unwilling to learn, but it's daunting.
I'm in the same field, Heavily into Virtualization. There is some very good info above like belt routing and pics. I guess first things first, How many belts total do you have on your car?
Op...agree with comments you are getting...
imo
step one..short term
take lots of very good pics...overal belt routing...each component and look for obvious areas of adjustment bolts..most times one at where it adjusts and another where it locks as well but no slide adjustments..not anymore difficult then a ram slot..
document what is there already...belt numbers etc...document pics of any adjustments left for each component...
they come off obviously in order..
i have no clue about your big block but others will help you as they have already..but you can help others help you..if stuck take pics and ask questions...
Look up numbers for your car or napa...compare with what you have...
remove belts..take to store..buy same if stretched right number..and or buy shorter half inch at a time...buy a bunch...return what doesn’t work out...
you have a very nice engine....clean and paint as you desire..
The squealing didn’t start until about a week or two after I had the car, and it was right after I gave it a good jab on the accelerator.
Maybe the belt was there and snapped off at that time, thus causing the noise to start?
Does the fan have to come off to install belts?
Is there a video or good step by step instructions on how to do it?
I’m currently not driving it anyway due to the other safety issues I’m trying to get sorted, but this sounds like something to get done pronto.
Would you post a better/closer photo of your crank pulley to see the grooves. With a tight crank to water pump belt, you shouldn't get a belt squeal.
If you are planning on installing the crank to water pump belt, then yes, the fan/clutch assembly has to be removed. There are 4 nuts holding it on. There are several threads on this forum about replacing big block belts. I'll post a better photo today of the crank pulley, it looks like the rear groove on yours doesn't line up with the rear groove of the water pump pulley and the idler pulley.
We are all here to help you. If I were you I would replace/install the belts yourself, if you have the tools and patience. This would be the time to practice and become familiar with your 454. It's just nuts and bolts.
Here's how I replace the belts on my '71 454:
1. I remove the alternator to PS belt.
2. I loosen the PS adjustment.
3. I loosen the AC compressor adjustment bolt.
4. I loosen the idler pulley adjustment.
5. I remove the fan blade/clutch assembly and set it aside, keeping it in a vertical position.
6. I remove the compressor belt, the power steering belt, then I pull the water pump pulley off to the front to remove the crank to water pump belt.
To install the belts:
1. With the mounting studs still screwed into the water pump, I put the rear belt on the rear groove of the crank pulley, then I put belt on the rear groove of the water pump pulley (which is in your hand), and work it on to the water pump studs.
2. I install the power steering belt, then the compressor belt.
3. Now I re-install the fan blade/clutch assembly and tighten the nuts.
4. I tighten the power steering belt and the compressor belt.
5. I push the idler pulley in and tighten the nut.
6. I install and tighten the alternator belt.
Here's a photo from a fellow member when he installed the crank to water pump belt.
My belts:
Last edited by 71 Green 454; Jan 2, 2021 at 03:08 PM.
Here's the best pic I could get, I don't have ramps and the floor jack I have is only a 1 ton. Fine for my Miata, but I don't want to try jacking the Vette with it.
It looks from your pic like the crank to water pump belt is a bit thinner than the others. If that's the case I think it'll fit.
You should use the correct terms when describing belts.
Longer / Shorter refers to diameter.
Wider / Narrower refers to actual width pertaining to how it rides in the groove.
Thicker / Thinner is how much material is on the belt measured from the bottom of the "V" to the top of the "V". Cheap belts would have less material, thinner.
Rumor has it that when the "V" belts started measurements in the metric systems, the belts started getting narrower. Maybe, maybe not.
Note that the belt # 15320 waterpump in above photo, is riding too deep in the pulley. So, therefore, it must be an incorrect belt.
Belts get their traction or grip from rubbing the sides of the belt, sides of the pulley. The bottom of the pulley & bottom of the belt does little.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Jan 2, 2021 at 05:11 PM.
Here's the best pic I could get, I don't have ramps and the floor jack I have is only a 1 ton. Fine for my Miata, but I don't want to try jacking the Vette with it.
It looks from your pic like the crank to water pump belt is a bit thinner than the others. If that's the case I think it'll fit.
OK, much better photo of the crank pulley...looks good. Install the crank to water pump belt and you'll be in good shape. Is the power steering belt tight?
Good luck.
Well, they ALL feel tight to me. So I can't say I'm the best person to say for sure.
Certainly none of them are overly loose.
I looked on the NAPA website but not knowing exactly what that belt is I don't know what size I'll need.
Any help on a few sizes to buy to start with are much appreciated.
You should use the correct terms when describing belts.
Longer / Shorter refers to diameter.
Wider / Narrower refers to actual width pertaining to how it rides in the groove.
Thicker / Thinner is how much material is on the belt measured from the bottom of the "V" to the top of the "V". Cheap belts would have less material, thinner.
Rumor has it that when the "V" belts started measurements in the metric systems, the belts started getting narrower. Maybe, maybe not.
Note that the belt # 15320 waterpump in above photo, is riding too deep in the pulley. So, therefore, it must be an incorrect belt.
Belts get their traction or grip from rubbing the sides of the belt, sides of the pulley. The bottom of the pulley & bottom of the belt does little.
What size belt do you recommend the OP purchase for the crank to water pump belt?
I was surprised how narrow the belt was when I purchased a GM crank to water pump belt from the Chevy dealer in1975.
Last edited by 71 Green 454; Jan 2, 2021 at 06:09 PM.
The main crankshaft to water pump belt that everyone has been talking about is tensioned with this idler pulley. I installed a new belt on my 454 this summer and found there's not a lot of slack to get it seated in both pulley grooves. It was a bit of a struggle, however once on, there was slack that needed to be taken up with the idler.
If you decide to tackle this job yourself (which I think is a perfect way to get some familiarity with the car and wrenching on it) you'll need a selection of basic wrenches and 1/2"-drive ratchet wrench, a 3" extension, and sockets – 1/2", 9/16", and 5/8" as I recall. I don't know if you have to remove the fan/clutch assembly, but it will make it easier to strong arm that belt on, create general working room, and more easily reach the idler pivot bolt. As was mentioned above, the fan/clutch is is an easy part to remove with only the four nuts to unscrew from the studs projecting from the water pump pulley face. After that, all of the other belts will need to be removed from the two main pulleys and reinstalled after the main belt is installed. The a/c compressor, power steering pump, and alternator are all mounted on pivots with secondary bolts in a curved slot to secure the placement. Locate the pivot point and the release bolts, loosen both slightly and pivot the component towards the water pump area, creating slack in the belt for removal. The same applies to the idler pulley except that you want to pull it away from the water pump.
If this is something you'd be willing to tackle, feel free to ask questions as they come up.
Last edited by barkingrats; Jan 2, 2021 at 10:43 PM.
What size belt do you recommend the OP purchase for the crank to water pump belt?
I was surprised how narrow the belt was when I purchased a GM crank to water pump belt from the Chevy dealer in1975.
I going to stay away from calling shots on belts. Especially if its not a SBC.
Years ago this forum recommended I run dual belts from W.P. to Crank. After measuring with a string, measuring with a tape, three trips to NAPA, numerous minutes looking at the Gates & Goodyear parts book, I gave up.
What a crappy job trying to get the fan on with a second belt fighting you.
It runs just fine with a single belt: W.P. > ALT > Crank.
Here’s where getting forum advice gets sketchy, especially for a beginner.
The reason for this adventure was to stop the squealing, then I got caught up in a missing belt.
And now someone comes along and says nerts, I don’t even need that missing belt.
I guess at this point I’ll continue forward with putting all the belts it should have on there, and I suppose I should just take off the ones I was told are a bit too long and replace them with something a bit shorter.
Make sense?
Here’s where getting forum advice gets sketchy, especially for a beginner.
The reason for this adventure was to stop the squealing, then I got caught up in a missing belt.
And now someone comes along and says nerts, I don’t even need that missing belt.
I guess at this point I’ll continue forward with putting all the belts it should have on there, and I suppose I should just take off the ones I was told are a bit too long and replace them with something a bit shorter.
Make sense?
no...
i think his point was a story about advice he got in the past not to your situation ..not one person has advised you to not replace the missing belt...
i could be wrong..either way i think the folks trying to help have zero misleading intentions..
honestly you have a couple curve *****..aftermarket ac, and an unkown year engine..options..there are experts on here for your specific engine and year...it is not me..it is helpful to help with details to help yourself...maybe even solving the riddle of what engine you have..take a pic of serial number etc..it’s a process...and no damage if you get wrong belts at first..and you learn something about your car..
i think the advice by all given is spot on ...or just drive it your choice..
IT completely depends on you particular belt layout. GM designed certain belt configurations with a balance in mind. sometimes a missing belt puts uneven strain on another to pick up the slack and more load with inadequate surface area.. When in doubt the first thing to do is always try getting things to the the point where they were designed to work and go from there. One belt may aid other. My ac doesnt work either but I had squealing when I tried removing the belt if I remember right and I have a SB
Last edited by augiedoggy; Jan 2, 2021 at 10:50 PM.
Here’s where getting forum advice gets sketchy, especially for a beginner.
The reason for this adventure was to stop the squealing, then I got caught up in a missing belt.
And now someone comes along and says nerts, I don’t even need that missing belt.
I guess at this point I’ll continue forward with putting all the belts it should have on there, and I suppose I should just take off the ones I was told are a bit too long and replace them with something a bit shorter.
Make sense?
If you re-read HeadsU.P.'s post you'll see he was advised to run not one but two water pump to crank belts.
I see this main belt as insurance against cooking the engine if one of the other belts fails. You can lose the alternator belt, power steering belt, and a/c belt without damaging those components, but if those belts are the only thing driving the water pump you're in serious risk of dangerously overheating the engine. Having more than one belt driving the water pump is good redundancy.
