When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
id use the dual snorkel in hopes of cooler air.
Open elements dont do much except make noise unless youre engines air needs exceeds the stocker.
Most new cars all have cold air stock...get a kick out of guys tossing them and installing the ricer hot air systems. Little OT but had to barf that out.
Last week, I had my first time ever backfire through the carb, air filter fire. I've owned, repaired, modified 75+ cars over 50+ years from total pos's to factory muscle cars. I had a K&N filter top years ago when they first became popular. I soon replaced it with a full metal top, because of the possibility of it catching fire and burning my hood. So, the car backfired and the paper filter caught fire. The metal top of the open filter saved my hood. I was able to put the fire out quickly with a extinguisher. No damage except for the paper element.
So, though remote, there is a chance that the K&N filter top could catch fire.
I'm glad that I didn't have it on.,
I'm a car veteran of 62 yrs old and had a carb fire too approx 3 wks ago, got the hood up but took a good ten min for a neighbor to come up with a extinguisher (half block from home), got so lucky it was just the element and fiber wrap, but it was growing. Glad you had the same outcome !
Thanks Reelav8r for the detail. Basically where I'm headed on the question of a crate engine or rebuild. By the time you put in the internals of an L82 you end up at 6K, not that a good rebuild is cheap either.
Last edited by vince vette 2; Jan 18, 2021 at 07:26 AM.
Thanks Reelav8r for the detail. Basically where I'm headed on the question of a crate engine or rebuild. By the time you put in the internals of an L82 you end up at 6K, not that a good rebuild is cheap either.
All you would need to rebuild your short block comes in kits... The block bored, bearings and 30 over pistons and rings.... head/cam you would need either way. depending on what a machine shop charges in your area rebuilding the l82 would be tremendously cheaper. If my car had an l82 instead of the the L48 it came with I would have rebuilt it instead of buying a 4 bolt block from a 76 truck and starting with that. I dont need forged internals but a steel crank is an upgrade either way so if I already had it...
Last edited by augiedoggy; Jan 18, 2021 at 07:39 AM.
Thanks Reelav8r for the detail. Basically where I'm headed on the question of a crate engine or rebuild. By the time you put in the internals of an L82 you end up at 6K, not that a good rebuild is cheap either.
The internals of your L-82 are likely in good shape. Could be even the bore is in good shape and does not need to be bored to .030 over. If that is the case then you can use the pistons in there too.
My L-48 had good bores when I rebuilt it so I did not bore it over.
The L-48 however had a cast crank, dish, base aluminum pistons and standard con rods, none of which are good for making power. So I had to change out all of that if I wanted to make my top end efforts worth the cost and time.
Kinda depends on how much power you want and if you want to go roller cam as to the cost involved.
One thing I can say is that the roller cam is worth the cost, no doubt about it, I'll never go flat tappet.
Also spend the money on the heads. Do not go cheap. That is where the power is made and quality there is very important.
Last edited by REELAV8R; Jan 18, 2021 at 09:38 AM.
^ I am in the process of installing a roller cam conversion now and was able to do it for about $500 - the pushrods which I have ordered today. there are a lot of cam+retro lifter kits out there for between $600-650
The internals of your L-82 are likely in good shape. Could be even the bore is in good shape and does not need to be bored to .030 over. If that is the case then you can use the pistons in there too.
My L-48 had good bores when I rebuilt it so I did not bore it over.
The L-48 however had a cast crank, dish, base aluminum pistons and standard con rods, none of which are good for making power. So I had to change out all of that if I wanted to make my top end efforts worth the cost and time.
Kinda depends on how much power you want and if you want to go roller cam as to the cost involved.
One thing I can say is that the roller cam is worth the cost, no doubt about it, I'll never go flat tappet.
Also spend the money on the heads. Do not go cheap. That is where the power is made and quality there is very important.
Originally Posted by augiedoggy
^ I am in the process of installing a roller cam conversion now and was able to do it for about $500 - the pushrods which I have ordered today. there are a lot of cam+retro lifter kits out there for between $600-650
I guess the L82 was worth the $500 or so it added as an option. In fact, at the time I would not have considered any vette without it. I agree about the roller cam, I would not build without one. Same on the heads.
When you guys have carb fires will the engine not start?
Seems to me getting it running would suck the fire in and eliminate the problem.
You would think,and of course that's what I tried, but unbeknown to me it had flooded severely and while pumping and cranking it had backfired. When I came to a stop smoke rolled out from all four corners of the hood, I jumped out and raised the hood saving it's paint. Could've been much worse. The Qjet is pretty ugly now.
You would think,and of course that's what I tried, but unbeknown to me it had flooded severely and while pumping and cranking it had backfired. When I came to a stop smoke rolled out from all four corners of the hood, I jumped out and raised the hood saving it's paint. Could've been much worse. The Qjet is pretty ugly now.
This is what I would think would actually happen. Basically by trying to start it you're adding more fuel to the fire as it would be by pumping it up to the carb.
This is what I would think would actually happen. Basically by trying to start it you're adding more fuel to the fire as it would be by pumping it up to the carb.
I actually didn't know it was on fire - and may not have been when it died, but I did try to start it by dumping the clutch, when that didn't work I hit the starter.
Usually it's just a tiny fire down in the intake and cranking does suck the fire out, but I think mine had a stuck float (??) and was pouring out fuel. HAD an el cheapo Edelbrock chrome open element housing that's now blackened and fire was licking-up more than a foot above it on one side and growing. I had just treated the truck to a nice long bath at the carwash, and this is how it rewarded me !
Last edited by 68post; Jan 21, 2021 at 11:04 PM.
Reason: not really
[QUOTE=CAMS69;1602881066]I prefer the L-88 Style with K&N filter, hood box open to rear. cold air, also just looks cool [/Q
I would too. Looks much cooler
I gotta wonder though if that small inner course filter assembly would be a restriction to air into the engine.Would like to see results with it off and with it on.
I prefer the L-88 Style with K&N filter, hood box open to rear. cold air, also just looks cool [/Q
I would too. Looks much cooler
I gotta wonder though if that small inner course filter assembly would be a restriction to air into the engine.Would like to see results with it off and with it on.
Thats just a screen to keep large debri from falling inside carb, no filter in it. $ barrel sound like " scooooooooooppppp" lol
Thats just a screen to keep large debri from falling inside carb, no filter in it. $ barrel sound like " scooooooooooppppp" lol
Yes I see that. But the square area of that assembly looks small.
Like it could be a restriction to airflow at some CFM level. Could be that is above the CFM of the carb though. IE, the CFM of that assembly is 800 and the carb is 750 or something along those lines. Not sure if GM figured that out or it it simply met the demand of the stock motor.
Last edited by REELAV8R; Jan 22, 2021 at 06:07 PM.
Yes I see that. But the square area of that assembly looks small.
Like it could be a restriction to airflow at some CFM level. Could be that is above the CFM of the carb though. IE, the CFM of that assembly is 800 and the carb is 750 or something along those lines. Not sure if GM figured that out or it it simply met the demand of the stock motor.
idk. The filter is 3” tall and the air box above it is huge
