Engine
So, "it ain't always like it appears to be"....



The reason BK has better times with open air cleaner is due to the restriction that a stock SINGLE snorkel (stock 77 L-48) presents for a non-stock motor at higher RPMs. If he were to actually provide sufficient air from a cold air source then his performance would be even better.
I know you understand the science behind cold air vs hot air.
I also know your running an open element, to each his own, it's just not optimal running an open element.
The OP wanted opinions, he's getting them.
I am sure my car would run quicker with a cold air intake setup in place. I don't just don't like the looks or the complexity of it.
Two other tidbits on this subject: I have made back to back runs with my open element air cleaner and then with the element removed but the base still installed. This resulted in a few hundredths improvement in ET and less than 1 mph increase in top end.
I also have tried running my car with the hood unlatched vs latched and I don't see any difference there.
I know he was still manufacturing them a couple of years ago.
I plan to look him up in the future to see if he is still producing them but need to wait until I get my engine in and can check hood clearance before I pull the plug on one.
Here is a photo of his design.
Last edited by OldCarBum; Jan 17, 2021 at 01:05 PM.



I am sure my car would run quicker with a cold air intake setup in place. I don't just don't like the looks or the complexity of it.
Two other tidbits on this subject: I have made back to back runs with my open element air cleaner and then with the element removed but the base still installed. This resulted in a few hundredths improvement in ET and less than 1 mph increase in top end.
I also have tried running my car with the hood unlatched vs latched and I don't see any difference there.
Although everyone seems to agree that colder intake air makes more power, how much more is it? I think I read something about 1% HP increase for every 10 deg F drop in temp. So if I lowered intake air by 50 deg, that would be a 5% increase in HP. Lets say I have 400 HP, so 5% additional would be 20 HP. That won't make 3 tenths improvement. Maybe not even 1 tenth.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
What is the ambient temp vs underhood temp?
are you doing hot laps or cooling between laps? and is the hood up to allow cooling between laps?
are the headers ( I’m assuming headers) coated or uncoated?
how and when did you jet the carb? If you tuned it in 70* temps and underhood temps are 160* then you have a seriously mistuned mixture.
if ambient temp is 80* while racing and under hood temp rises to 160* that’s 8% power loss using the figure mentioned.
8% of 400? 32hp lost just due to temp, not counting the now mistuned fuel mixture which will substantially add to that loss due to excessively rich mixture.
you can’t ONLY factor in loss of air density. Tune or lack thereof adds to that loss .
Last edited by REELAV8R; Jan 17, 2021 at 03:17 PM.
Read BKbroilers post then read mine above.....
Jebby
the first iteration of this system was with one additional intake on the passenger side, and that was good enough for the DART SHP heads that were on there at the time making abput 406 HP. No more than 1 1/2" of water column vacuum present inside the air cleaner assembly during operation.
Then I put on AFR 180 heads. Suddenly I did not have enough air for the engine. Jumped up to something over 7" of water vacuum. I did not have it calibrated higher than that. The water was just sucked into the air cleaner assembly and consumed. AFR's are producing about 440HP. Also had to drill the float main orfice larger to provide enough fuel for the carb/engine as it was running out of fuel at the top of second gear.
Goes to show how much better the AFR's flowed vs the DART SHP's. I added the second intake tube on the drivers side and once again dropped the vacuum inside the air cleaner assembly to 1 1/2" or less of water.
Those are 2" exhaust pipe sections I used to weld onto the air cleaner can and also attached to the wall into the wiper tray area.
I don't know how much square area is required for a certain CFM carb and I'm not sure it's even a linear relationship. I do know how to measure the vacuum present inside the air cleaner assembly though. And modify the system until it meets the demand of the engine.
There is also a flapper valve inside the snorkel of the 77 L-48 that is vacuum actuated via water temps. That was removed completely. Then the stove pipe hole on the bottom that sucked hot air during warm up was plugged.
I think at one time I measured the square area of the snorkel and it was around 7"square IIRC. So I have effectively added 6.28 square inches to that number. People that look under the hood don't even comment on the mod. I assume they think it's stock.
Additionally by collecting air at the wiper tray it is somewhat pressurized at speed as that is a high pressure area.
Last edited by REELAV8R; Jan 17, 2021 at 07:50 PM.
When I did a dyno a couple times I tested with air cleaner lid on and removed, there was no difference in HP or torque. Proving that the mods I added were working and providing sufficient air to the engine.
Also proving that the K&N filter was not a restriction.
the bore of the engine is still stock as is the deck height,
and the Q-jet is original, but extensively modified as wel, via Cliff Ruggles' book.
Scat crank 3.48" and 5.7" con rods. So it's still a 350 CI engine.
11.5 cc Kieth black hyper pistons,
Heads have been angle milled to 55.5 cc's giving me 10.6:1 CR.
Cam is a roller cam, 270/270 on a 108 LSA with .549" lift at the valve. Full roller rockers 1.6 ratio.
Edelbrock performer intake that has been significantly ported to provide adequate flow to the heads.
An L82 will take to just a top end modification far better than an L-48 with stock internals. You got forged internals and flat top pistons to work with.
Last edited by REELAV8R; Jan 17, 2021 at 08:55 PM.

















