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I have a 1978 PC and need to swap my motor mounts as the drivers side has split in half.
I have seen these listed on Rockauto and they have been reccomended on a video i saw a while ago too.
Are they good, as they are damn cheap 🤔
Thanks
Norman
Never used them but something about paying $2 for motor mounts would indicate that it is not of the highest quality. The reviews I read were not good and cost $10 at Advance Auto. Thin & made in China or India.
never could see where one was made as it matters to me, one usa belcamp. They said it was sitting there for decades
went to napa one fit perfect Usa the other needed modifying (cutting slop rubber for bolts to get socket on)
good luck.. did not go solid.
edit looks like you are in pounds..i guess your options limited...
A solid mount will prevent that ever happening again.
Just on the drivers side, that is where the torque tries to pivot that side of the engine up.
I have a solid on the drivers side, no noticeable vibration or noise due to it.
I bought a pair of these from Rock and found the fit over the frame horns to be very sloppy. I tried another set from a local auto parts retailer with similar results. The only mount I found that fit well was from Corvette Central (#302005 - $25usd). Apparently these are made for them to be exact replacements. I had to take a few swipes with a file on each to slide onto the horns and during engine installation, they just slipped right into place.
The Interlocking Engine Mount was the result of a recall Chevrolet did in the late 60's early 70's because of the failure of the driver's side engine mount as occurred above. It was not part of the recall, but was a re-engineering of the original mount. It allows the mount to absorb normal engine vibrations, but only allows the mount to flex a fraction of an inch before it locks metal to metal to prevent engine torque from ultimately ripping them apart. It works well but can require minor modification of the plug wire 'V' shields to fit them on after adding the interlocking mount.
The above mount may also require removal of one or both of the tac welded spacers of the mount depending on the width of your cars frame mounts. Just measure the frame mount, or compare to the old engine mount to decide if removal of either of the spacers need to be removed before installing them. These were added to accommodate different chassis mounts used at the time.
Anchor was the brand that ALL the local parts houses carried years ago when I rebuilt my engine. They are still working fine 10+ yrs later.
There is a youtube video of a guy comparing this one to a cheap chinese one. The Anchor one looks so much better made.
It's just the price that made me wonder. So cheap🤔😉
Anchor mount lasted less than 1 year on my ‘78 L48. Switched to energy suspension poly. They are stronger but sensitive to heat from exhaust.
Somewhere on this forum is a picture of a rubber mount with two thru-bolts added. Looked like a very cheap, very easy way to make “almost-solid” mounts.
Charlie
Anchor was the brand that ALL the local parts houses carried years ago when I rebuilt my engine. They are still working fine 10+ yrs later.
In reading the threads on other forums they agree with you that the older mounts made in Korea were ok. Nowerdays you need to be careful and not accept one made in India. So Anchor appears to be a hit or miss.
Even posted a comparison:
Korea
India.
I have the ones from Corvette Central. Had to slightly tweak them to fit the saddle but I highly recommend them.
I’ll corroborate the same. I recently installed new CC mounts. Very high quality compared to flimsy import mounts. But I also had to do some tweaking with a file.
Engine mount question
