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Pretty sure my dimmer switch has a short. If I accidentally touch it when the lights are on the headlamps go out and I have to tap it again, sometimes several times, to get them to come back on.
So I got a new switch and went to install it, but the screws are so tight and surrounded by some hardened goo that they won't budge.
I've sprayed them with a little break free and we'll see if they move after dinner.
Can anyone tell me if it's safe to try and chip the stuff around them off to get the screws out?
Un fortunately you will probably end up cutting the screw heads off, pry off the switch, try vise grib on the remaining screw if you can grab it. If not cut the screws down flush and drill. Now you may be able to tap a new thread or over size the hole and use new screws with nuts.
The penetrator ate away all the rubbery goo, but damn! That switch feels like it's glued to the firewall. I tried to wiggle it with vice grips and the entire floorboard moved. I don't want to crack anything.
I'm beginning to understand why a shop quoted me 2 hours to swap out this switch. One of you guys that said you could do it in 15 minutes needs to be at my house at 7am tomorrow morning!
Put the new switch on the connector and it's definitely what the issue is. Maybe I'll just rig up a harness extension and give up on the floor switch.
If the screws look like they are surrounded by sealant, make a dam with tape (around the screws/switch), and then fill the reservoir with Goo-Gone for a day. I have had really good luck using the stuff on my windshield wiper valley that was covered with some type of sealant or trunk liner.
I ripped the metal switch all apart with vice grips, all that's left of the bottom plate, still won't budge. sprayed the hell out of it with goo gone. Will go back at it tomorrow.
I like using my Dremel with the small Cut Off Wheel to remove the pot metal base underneath and around each screw. If you can remove the pot metal switch base, you will be able to get the Blast release spray on the top of the screw threads. Also without the metal base the screw heads will protrude higher off the floor. If all else fails, you can drill out each screw with Cobalt Drill bits purchased at Lowe’s. You want to start with tiny bits going very slow, use oil to lubricate. Once you get down to the bottom of the screw, go to the next size drill bit. I used this on my metal headlight screws that were rusted and the screw heads broke off. The secret is to drill slowly until all that is left is the threads. Next I used a tap to clean up the threads. Because the headlight bezels are painted and the screws are countersunk, I went really slow. Good Luck.
The Dremel tools are not that expensive, it’s probably the tool I used most often when fixing things that are not automotive. If you are going to work on your Corvette, tools are sorta important. You should become acquainted with Harbor Freight, even if you have to buy on line if they don’t have a location near you. Also maybe a friend who lives by, if you want to Dropbox, I would be happy to lend the Dremel to you. Of course no clue as to where you live.
All of these tools are less than $100, so about 1/3 of the price the original place wanted to charge you for the dimmer switch replacement once you buy the new dimmer switch.
At some point, you make the decision of what track you want to take - pay a shop to do everything and find yourself with a bit of a money pit (this is always what older cars become over time on this track) or take a fraction of what the shop would charge, buy the tools, learn the process and do your own work (this track must fit your psyche as you have to see it as an adventure, satisfying and feel good that you did it yourself).
Only thing left on the floorboard is the screws. I don't know what they're screwed into but they aren't coming out.
Put the switch on last night and tested the headlights. They worked fine.
Drove to work this morning and my 'Door Open' light kept briefly flickering on and off. When I got to work I checked my lights again. Now they won't come on at all. Switch is still attached.
This is why I don't own tools.
Hope I get out early enough that I don't need my lights to drive home.
Is there a way to short the harness together to get my lights back? I’ll deal with not having high beams later, but now I can’t drive anymore since I work till dusk most days.
What I noticed this morning was that when I clicked the switch the battery gauge went crazy, now it doesn’t respond anymore, this was a brand new switch from O’Reillys. What could have happened?
Is there a way to short the harness together to get my lights back?
Judging by the diagram that PeterBuilt posted, shorting the tan and light blue wires together SHOULD bypass the high beam switch and give you low beams, but you could have a problem with the headlight switch itself. There is an automatic resetting circuit breaker in the headlight switch that will cause the headlights to turn off for a short time, then back on once the breaker cools off. That could have been what was causing your original problem also?
Last edited by bradleyb66; Mar 8, 2021 at 08:07 PM.
They have consistently worked just fine till I farted around with them. After the car sat for 9 hours they still didn’t work. I’ll try shorting tan and blue together and see what happens.
Is there any way to test the switch with a meter to see if it went bad?
Headlight dimmer switch... switch
