When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yeah, Summit said the one they have only comes as is so I am going to call Blue Print directly and see if they make the same engine that fits under a stock Corvette hood.
skip white is reputable guy. hot rod on facebook? if you have to advertise on facebook you are borderline non-existant business. and ad says "no used parts."
Heads and headers are where it's at. Easy to get 400 HP out of a 350.But go careful with cam selection. 400+HP will put you right on the edge of enough duration that the manifold vac will take a dump, and it won't drive crisp at low rpms. You'll need in the 224 to 230 to 235 range at .050. You'll need to keep the headers too. Dump the chambered exhaust which is very restrictive. Add good 2-1/2" pipes and turbo mufflers or better. With the 2.87 1st gear of the 5 speed either the 3.36 or 3.55 rear would be ideal. You'll have plenty of gear. The L46 350-350 had around 224 dur and they had great bottom end. They would pull hard to 6000+. More dur than that and under 2500 quickly becomes soft. The Z28/LT-1 motor had 252 dur, to give you an idea, but would pull to 6500-7000. You want close to 10:1 CR.
A 350 in this range you could push to 450HP. But with more rpm you need a steel crank. At 6200 probably not. The heads are the key. The new ones are so much better than the old OEM ones they are probably worth 40-50HP alone. Go a little conservative with their flow rating to keep the velocity/throttle crispness up. Getting rid of the chambered exhaust is also probably worth 20-30 HP, it's more about sound than flow. You want flow. You can easily gain 100HP from where you are now. If you feel you need a steel crank, you can probably get a 350 take out, say $200-300, easily because stroker cranks are all the rage right now. Then add ARP rod bolts and rev it without worrying. With a stroker 383 or 400 stroker and considering the above, you could be at or above 500HP.. So for 400ish you don't need it. And stoker cranks mean new cranks, new rods, new pistons, custom fitting and more $$. Yeah they are cool, and strong, but at a price.
BTW I spent $13K on my 454 4 bolt block, steel crank, aluminum head, Holley, BBC because I had to buy everything down to the dipstick. Use what you have for cost effectiveness. You have a (hopefully) good 4 bolt block to start. And a cast crank good for a medium build, ditto with rods. Pistons? depends on what you have.
Hundreds of choices, Make it yours and make it fun.
Well, I bought an engine. It turns out my neighbor who used to be a racer at the Bonneville Speedway had a 383 stroker sitting on an engine stand and had recently sold the vehicle he was going to drop it in.
It needs some assembly but comes complete with everything except the push rods. Now I just have to figure out how to assemble the rest of it.
It has:
383 Stroker
Trick Flow aluminum heads
Comp Cam-270 mag
Lifters
Roller rockers
Oil pan
Front Cover
Fluid damper
Edelbrock intake
Moroso oil pump
stud kit for the head, pan, valve covers
Harmonic damper
all gaskets
Now that I bought an engine I am thinking about keeping the Muncie 4 speed. There is nothing wrong with it and Im not sure I want to drop over $4k for a car that I plan on driving on weekends. I may just put the Muncie back in for now and maybe swap the tranny down the road.
383 s make great TQ.
Trick Flow heads work pretty well, make great street power.
That is a respectable cam should idle real nice in a 383.
Same duration as the old L46 350/350 cam 224.
Might be pretty mild in a 383. Peak under 5800, maybe 5500-5600. Rev good to 6000+
Easy 400 HP.
Is that what you are looking for?
You should ask the guy what compression he built into it.
Find out if it is a 4 bolt or a steel crank.
make and part number of the pistons and rods. bearing make and part numbers and sizes. and keep your 350 until this engine has been running well for you for a while.
I just dropped the transmission off today to get rebuilt. Since I decided to stay with the original Muncie M21 it should get a full rebuild so its ready to go.
I changed up my build plans a little and decided to keep the Muncie M21 that came from the factory. I just had it completely rebuilt and it is ready to go back in the car. I am now waiting on a friend to free up his engine run stand so we can throw the new 383 on it and do a break-in on the cam. Then they can both go back in with a new clutch and she should be ready to run.
I just dropped the transmission off today to get rebuilt. Since I decided to stay with the original Muncie M21 it should get a full rebuild so its ready to go.
I don't know what a summit racing super case muncie costs these days. But they are so much better than putting rebuild money into a original
As an update, my M21 tranny is back and fully rebuilt. I know I said I was going to go with a 5 speed but once I priced it all out I decided to hold off for now.
The engine is almost complete. Its a new 383 Stroker with a Holley double pumper carb and full MSD ignition. I have a friend who is going to put it on a run stand to break it in.
The Hooker headers are being dropped off this week for ceramic coating and then I can start reassembly.
I also pulled the steering column off and sent it for a rebuild while the engine was out. That is back in the car along with the Borgeson power steering and I made sure to center the steering box before reinstall. I didnt center it the first time and the car would wander down the road. Should be good now.
05-07-2021, 06:39 PM
