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This is going to be my documentation of my engine build thread. I know I had another thread on engine pulling advice but I want this one to document the entire process. I pulled the engine and transmission as one unit. The 4 speed was fine but I am going to upgrade to a TKX 5 speed probably from SST. The engine itself is a Chevy 350 (not numbers matching) with a 4 bolt main. The compression numbers were all 150 so I may just keep it and upgrade the heads. The heads that are on it are casting numbers GM 462624 and from what I have read they have 76cc chambers and are absolutely the worst heads available. I can only assume the cam is similar. The engine was lethargic to say the least and was in dire need of a clean up, new seals and better heads and cam. It does have an Edelbrock Performer intake manifold and Edelbrock 600 cfm carb but that's all. The car also has headers and the Allens Chambered exhaust straight out the back.
Id like to be somewhere around 400 HP. So that I know what I have, what do you suggest for a head and cam combo?
the 624 aren't the worst head. but they are up there. first you need to do an autopsy, if you will, on the engine. pull the heads. throw them in the river. after checking to see if they are among the rare 2.02 valve heads. which they won't be. now clean and check the piston tops. most likely oem small dish cast, and standard bore. but also possible aftermarket and 30 or 40 over. now disassemble the engine. crank, pistons and cam out. DO NOT pull a couple of bearings and say they are good so they all must be. also cam bearings are easier done and cleaned up after with a bare block. .now you know your bore size and condition. your crank condition. if it needs rebored, go find a vortec block. hydraulic roller setup for a few hundred bucks. and the iron is better and the thermostats never got pulled out and left out so most of the bores are in very good shape. both my 880 vortec blocks show no bore wear. still thinking 383? works with either block. now you need to count dinero and decide how much you want to sink in this engine. good bores, crank and pistons? you can re-ring it for 100 bucks. or you can easily drop 7k in an aftermarked 4-1/8 block and a forged 3.75 crank and forged flat pistons and top of the line brodix or afr heads. and you still haven't got a cam yet. you want a roller setup. you do NOT want 200 buck ebay roller lifters. now, after counting up parts cost you need to look into new or rebuilt short blocks or complete engines. and see which way makes the most sense. many guys are leery of assembling bottom ends themselves.
I reached out to SST and got a quote but it is for a 26 spline input shaft and mine is a 10 spline. He said that the TKX is not made in a 10 spline and I would need a 26 spline clutch disc minimally or a new clutch disc. Can someoen explain what they mean in layman's terms?
I recommend the Trick Flow 175cc DH heads and a Howards Hydraulic Roller Cam.
I am currently updating a 69' 350/350 and it is getting those heads and this cam:
The idea here is a rumbly idle, excellent around town throttle response, about 13-14 inches vacuum for the headlights......and 400 horsepower through manifolds (2.5").
I am using the same 2701 intake as you and a 0-90670 carb........this will be a great sleeper engine with plenty of torque......all painted orange.....
Jebby, you nailed it. That's exactly what I am looking to do except I don't need that much manifold as I have electric headlights and will install the electric wipers soon. But as far as the rumbly sound and throttle response that's exactly what I want.
Jebby, you nailed it. That's exactly what I am looking to do except I don't need that much manifold as I have electric headlights and will install the electric wipers soon. But as far as the rumbly sound and throttle response that's exactly what I want.
The good manifold vacuum is just a side effect.......good manifold vacuum makes for a crispy responsive engine around town......especially with the 0-90670 Truck Avenger carb.....14 inches of vacuum and billet annular primary boosters is a super responsive combo.........the kind that feels even more powerful than it is......combined with the deep 1st gear of the 5 speed (which my customer is using as well) and the optimized gear spacing.....this thing will feel like a rocket......should crack 12's on sticky rubber.....super sneaky stock appearing 357ci engine (.040 over).
I reached out to SST and got a quote but it is for a 26 spline input shaft and mine is a 10 spline. He said that the TKX is not made in a 10 spline and I would need a 26 spline clutch disc minimally or a new clutch disc. Can someoen explain what they mean in layman's terms?
Get a 26 spline clutch kit, problem solved. Old clutch probably has wear and new engine with more torque will make short work of that old clutch.
like dj said. you are replacing the clutch anyway. the number of splines is only diff. and the 26 is stronger. all the stuff you are gonna be doing which clutch disc is way down there priority wise. next question: are you driving the car this summer? it may effect the amount of work. pull the heads. lets see what this engine has for pistons. pull the pan too. many truck engines are forged crank and pistons. what is the 3 letter code on the stamp pad?
Last edited by derekderek; May 6, 2021 at 07:20 PM.
that is why you are doing this. that is a cast crank, so nothing fancy. pull a couple bearings and read the back of the bearing shells. will tell you if been rebuilt or orig gm and the month and year. stamp pad is front of the block right in front of the right cylinder head. have you decided how much you want to spend? and whether or not you MUST HAVE that 10% displacement boost of a 383. you can always get 185 cc heads for the 350 so you don't have to buy again when that 383 or orig 400 small block falls in your lap... oh, your car is very close to chebby engine orange-which they called red. and there is no hard and fast correct chevy orange color. it was whatever was in the semi trailer full of orange paint that pulled up at any given engine plant at any given time. maybe paint the engine to match the body...
Last edited by derekderek; May 7, 2021 at 01:47 PM.
I may just go with a crate engine and sell this one. I just checked my rear end ration and can someone tell me if I did it right? I jacked up the left rear tire and marked the driveshaft. Then I spun the tire through two rotations and counted 6.5 turns of the driveshaft. What would my rear end ration be?
jack up both rear wheels. but sounds like around 3.25. you will be disappointed by the lack of interest in an old 350. hard to get 200 bucks for them these days.
that is why you are doing this. that is a cast crank, so nothing fancy. pull a couple bearings and read the back of the bearing shells. will tell you if been rebuilt or orig gm and the month and year. stamp pad is front of the block right in front of the right cylinder head. have you decided how much you want to spend? and whether or not you MUST HAVE that 10% displacement boost of a 383. you can always get 185 cc heads for the 350 so you don't have to buy again when that 383 or orig 400 small block falls in your lap... oh, your car is very close to chebby engine orange-which they called red. and there is no hard and fast correct chevy orange color. it was whatever was in the semi trailer full of orange paint that pulled up at any given engine plant at any given time. maybe paint the engine to match the body...
I'd do the 195cc runner and be really ready Ha Ha .
Realistically, I am doing this right now too. Depends on the bottom end on mine. If it can be saved without a ton of machine work. Rings and Bearings and Balance. if it needs bored. then Pistons and 6" rods..if I needs crank work....383 or 406 short block. Leaning more towards 406 short block now because of the air flow potential but we shall see
https://www.ebay.com/itm/33391577922...IAAOSwSv1Xli5X this is skip white, i bekieve. the guy who takes chinese heads and makes them hold up. not an assembled engine though. ok you are in san diego. summer ain't gonna end and road salt is something you heard about on the internet. so you don't have to have it together before winter...
Last edited by derekderek; May 7, 2021 at 05:41 PM.
'68 Engine build thread with 5 speed
