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2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
derekderak is talking about testing the STARTER SOLENOID.
We are not there yet! Get the new negative cable from the starter to the frame installed first and test if the problem goes away or not.
Changing the battery positive cable is a hard job!
Don't do that just yet.
When it comes time to test the solenoid you just jumper from the battery positive. at the starter to the 'S' terminal which is 1" away.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Originally Posted by Samuel’s 74
it might just be me not knowing what I was looking at. I’m going to get under it Saturday and replace my positive cable, starter ground, and engine block to frame ground(I think) cable.
Look at #3 on the left top of the page, now look at the picture and find #3.
derekderak is talking about testing the STARTER SOLENOID.
We are not there yet! Get the new negative cable from the starter to the frame installed first and test if the problem goes away or not.
Changing the battery positive cable is a hard job!
Don't do that just yet.
When it comes time to test the solenoid you just jumper from the battery positive. at the starter to the 'S' terminal which is 1" away.
so if my positive cable is good, then my starter ground could be causing it to be nothing?
I go to turn my key and it’s nothing, no dashboard lights, no interior, no starter trying to start.
and, I planned to change my starter in the near distant future - which is why I’m learning to change all of these wires out at the same time.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Originally Posted by PJO
Seen the ground wire ether way.
In these two pictures, the small BLACK wire is connected to a starter or bell housing bolt, both ways work just fine.
That BLACK wire it the ground for your heater blower motor and wiper motor so it's needed.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Originally Posted by Samuel’s 74
so if my positive cable is good, then my starter ground could be causing it to be nothing?
I go to turn my key and it’s nothing, no dashboard lights, no interior, no starter trying to start..
We don't know what the exact problem is yet,
Disconnect the battery while you are changing the NEGATIVE cable and check that the POSITIVE from the cable to the starter is clean and tight.
I go to turn my key and it’s nothing, no dashboard lights, no interior, no starter trying to start.
Do you brake lights work? If not, considering all the other items you mention that are inop, perhaps the wire harness connections at your bulkhead connector may be the problem. Have you done any work in that area?
Do you brake lights work? If not, considering all the other items you mention that are inop, perhaps the wire harness connections at your bulkhead connector may be the problem. Have you done any work in that area?
Larry
with what it’s currently doing, no. It’s like my battery is completely dead. But I had it retested yesterday and it tested fine again.
sometimes I’ll get dashboard lights(parking brake/foot light), and one time I had enough power to turn on my headlights - but even then not enough to start it.
but no, I haven’t messed with any of that. I tried to stay away from electric.
Last edited by Samuel’s 74; May 28, 2021 at 07:17 AM.
In these two pictures, the small BLACK wire is connected to a starter or bell housing bolt, both ways work just fine.
That BLACK wire it the ground for your heater blower motor and wiper motor so it's needed.
I’ll stop by Lowe’s on the way home today and get the small starter(?) negative/ground wire and see it I can swap that out tonight, maybe the ground for the heater motor/wiper motor too.
the wire from the negative battery terminal to the frame directly below the battery. the terminal on the frame is bolted to steel. the steel to copper wire joinr causes electrolysis and the end of the wire becomes trashed. if no lights, no nothing this is most likely culprit. and the long wire from batt directly to the solenoid is to test ignition switch, neutral or clutch switch, everything that is involved in firing the solenoid. reaching up to the hot stud with a screwdriver is not easy to do.
Last edited by derekderek; May 28, 2021 at 07:35 AM.
the wire from the negative battery terminal to the frame directly below the battery. the terminal on the frame is bolted to steel. the steel to copper wire joinr causes electrolysis and the end of the wire becomes trashed. if no lights, no nothing this is most likely culprit. and the long wire from batt directly to the solenoid is to test ignition switch, neutral or clutch switch, everything that is involved in firing the solenoid. reaching up to the hot stud with a screwdriver is not easy to do.
I replaced my whole negative battery to ground the other day, so I know that ones good. It’s gotta be something along the positive line or the starter?.
or maybe my wire harness bulkhead?.
the big hot wire goes to the starter from the battery. from there a smaller wire that is basically a fuse feeds the whole car. if this fusible link popped, the car will be stone dead. no 12 volts nowhere. no lights, clicks, beeps... find the horn relay. that is the next stop for electricity after leaving the main hot stud on starter. this will also be shown if you can crank the starter by jumping the S terminal. either with a piece of wire or screwdriver.
i remember your other thread.. not clear to me anyway how you made out neg battery cable fix..maybe take another look for tightness etc..?
post some pics too of your starter area etc. many sharp eyes here.
i remember your other thread.. not clear to me anyway how you made out neg battery cable fix..maybe take another look for tightness etc..?
post some pics too of your starter area etc. many sharp eyes here.
I just bought a premade pure copper negative cable, cleaned the battery port, frame port and hooked it up.
it started up after it great, the quickest cleanest start it’s ever done. But there was some oil burning in my engine bay(spilt some earlier), so I turned it off to clean it up some. - near my right headers, didn’t go near anything electrical.
2 minutes later, I get back in it, put in the key, turn it, and 100% nothing. No interior lights, no dash(parking brake light), no click of the starter trying to engage
I will double check(again) my negative ground connection and I’ll get some pics of my starter. But from my limited knowledge, the problem is probably something there.
Last edited by Samuel’s 74; May 28, 2021 at 02:57 PM.
My gut is telling me as someone else suggested. With your intermittent power no power see if you are have a problem at the distribution block under the master cylinder. There is a bolt that keeps the 2 blocks connected the inside and outside blocks. I would investigate this.
Also your horn relay
Your ignition switch for proper alignment with the rod from the key cylinder.
Also 1974s and early '75 Corvettes had a seatbelt/by-pass/interlock module relay up on the passenger side firewall above the heater core cover and has an orange plastic base with a silver cadmium relay cover with a black rubber/plastic by-pass button. You can jumper the green and purple wire on the relay and bypass it.
If you do not have a volt meter get one or a simple test light
My gut is telling me as someone else suggested. With your intermittent power no power see if you are have a problem at the distribution block under the master cylinder. There is a bolt that keeps the 2 blocks connected the inside and outside blocks. I would investigate this.
Also your horn relay
Your ignition switch for proper alignment with the rod from the key cylinder.
Also 1974s and early '75 Corvettes had a seatbelt/by-pass/interlock module relay up on the passenger side firewall above the heater core cover and has an orange plastic base with a silver cadmium relay cover with a black rubber/plastic by-pass button. You can jumper the green and purple wire on the relay and bypass it.
If you do not have a volt meter get one or a simple test light
tomorrow I will post pics of my starter and my distribution block, and see if there’s an obvious problem causer there.
id really like to not take apart my steering column.. and my horn doesn’t work.
and despite what all my posts will make you believe, my 74 was completely redone in 2007. So there really shouldn’t be any problems with it (completely redone, nothing is original/old-not even frame)
My gut is telling me as someone else suggested. With your intermittent power no power see if you are have a problem at the distribution block under the master cylinder. There is a bolt that keeps the 2 blocks connected the inside and outside blocks. I would investigate this.
Also your horn relay
Your ignition switch for proper alignment with the rod from the key cylinder.
Also 1974s and early '75 Corvettes had a seatbelt/by-pass/interlock module relay up on the passenger side firewall above the heater core cover and has an orange plastic base with a silver cadmium relay cover with a black rubber/plastic by-pass button. You can jumper the green and purple wire on the relay and bypass it.
If you do not have a volt meter get one or a simple test light
I’m back!! Finally!
so I didn’t see any specific block looking thing under my master cylinder, But there is a cluster/connection of wires mounted to my left interior
wheel well(picture marked with blue)
edit, I found a blockish looking thing, but it’s way down there on the frame - (marked with green)
I did get some pictures of my starter wires.. but they’re terrible and a cable is in the way.
now that I’m vaguely more familiar with this, I found the small black ground wire. I found the positive cable cable.
i didn’t specifically see the Bigger grounding wire, but there are two wires that are in a protective sleeve together - that come up to my firewall and lead to behind the distributor. I don’t know what these hoses are for but they look absolutely terrible and I’d like to replace while I’m down here. (I posted a pic of the top of this is connected too) The hoses from the top picture come from the bottom of the circle thing in the center, then they connect to the metal pipes(orange dots) that are mounted to my right wheel wall area.
The unit itself is mounted to my front right engine block, just under my headers.
Last edited by Samuel’s 74; May 29, 2021 at 03:37 PM.
Thanks for posting the pics. It looks as if there's a lot going on with your car that may be difficult to adequately or easily explain and answer via Forum Q's and A's. Do you know anyone who is familiar with working on old cars that could help you out in person? My particular concern is the hoses you mention - they carry gasoline from the fuel tank to the fuel pump (the round object you mention) and a hose failure or even a bad leak could be ultimately catastrophic.
I'm getting the sense you're a rookie at this sort of thing, and that's perfectly OK; everyone was at one time. I applaud you for your willingness to dive in and learn on your own. I believe you could benefit greatly from an additional set of hands that has done this sort of thing before.
Thanks for posting the pics. It looks as if there's a lot going on with your car that may be difficult to adequately or easily explain and answer via Forum Q's and A's. Do you know anyone who is familiar with working on old cars that could help you out in person? My particular concern is the hoses you mention - they carry gasoline from the fuel tank to the fuel pump (the round object you mention) and a hose failure or even a bad leak could be ultimately catastrophic.
I'm getting the sense you're a rookie at this sort of thing, and that's perfectly OK; everyone was at one time. I applaud you for your willingness to dive in and learn on your own. I believe you could benefit greatly from an additional set of hands that has done this sort of thing before.
Larry
I have people that can assist me working on it, but not really anyone who’s super mechanically familiar.
I was under the impression that the fuel pump was in my gas tank?.
but yes, I can absolutely replace those hoses before I attempt to start the car again. I do understand how devastating a fire can be(Fiberglass is pure fuel). I saw 2 hoses from the pump, I’m going to assume 3/8ths.. do you know how long they are? I like to have a length in mind before I take it off.
the most difficult thing is that it started fine Thursday, and then I turned it off and it wouldn’t start back it. So that should make it something simple?.
I’m learning as I go, I’ve changed my oil, transmission fluid, spark plugs, fuel filter, a coolant hose. Once I learn it I’m good.. I just have to learn it.
mans with the not starting problem - there’s so many things that I might have to learn at the same time which is like bruh
Last edited by Samuel’s 74; May 29, 2021 at 04:39 PM.
